I Believe In Pod

To red stripe, or not to red stripe?

  • Leave it!

    Votes: 4 23.5%

  • Take it off as fast as possible

    Votes: 13 76.5%
  • Total voters
    17
Rayvon said:
I'm coming in late to this thread,is the pod that "Brando" built a hull extension pod? Flush w/hull bottom or tapered? Hard to tell from your pictures.One picture makes it look like it follows hull shape ,but up an inch or two?
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Totally flush! And it rides perfectly.
 
just before @Maxpri I did a 232 Grady twin 150s same complaint as many have with a stepped pod slow to plane motors wouldn’t come out of the water at the dock. He went from burning 9-12gph per motor to burning 6-8gph (cruise) boat jumps up out of the water and is on step right away top speeds improved 3-5mph no more water coming back through the scuppers the list goes on..

Before that boat it was a 25’ Bertram with a stepped pod and twin 200s, she does 50mph and gets on step quickly but the Bertram carries a lot of weight forward and the balance was much different.

Each style has its benefits but I would say the extension is generally the more effective design when your converting a factory inboard boat to outboard. It requires more time spent fitting $$ but it’s worth it.

Edit: will add that the porpoising effect often seen on the stepped pods is due to not enough rise from hull to back of pod. You have to ensure that the surface tension breaks free quickly and water rises cleanly to the motors. Not always easy and not always the most practical design in calm water you will see excellent results when it’s all setup properly BUT we don’t always operate in nice calm seas. if you have a pod designed this way the best thing you can do is add a hydraulic jack plate and some good tabs and will still require the captain to be on point dialing the ride in.

Edit X2: just cause I’m on a roll here I’ll add that @wolf your pod is well designed 30” leg with a motor well puts you high out of the water 👍🏻. That is the only “downside” to an extension you might need a 30” leg depending how your hull is designed which can prove to be more difficult if your shopping used.
 
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The reason I'm asking about the flush pod is that the new to me Seasport 1900 was built with a single engine pod/bracket that is tapered and has almost no floatation value.The result is it porpoises,is very sensitive to trim,is slow to plane even with a new 200 Suzuki ,top speed and cruising is is not what it should be and the scuppers are at waterline.I've improved it some by raising the motor,adding a hydro-foil,adding weight forward and I've ordered a 4 blade prop.But I've always thought the tapered pods made no sense and flush is the way to go.If I can't get this boat dialed in ,I may have to spring for a new floatation pod,but I measured and it looks like my 25" motor would be sitting pretty low,pod would have to be very close to waterline.
 

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it’s not a cheap option ray but a hydraulic jack plate MIGHT help you out enough. Between tabs,motor trim/throttle and the jack plate you’ll be busy and always tweaking. Those Armstrong bracket suck in my opinion..
 
Rayvon said:
The reason I'm asking about the flush pod is that the new to me Seasport 1900 was built with a single engine pod/bracket that is tapered and has almost no floatation value.The result is it porpoises,is very sensitive to trim,is slow to plane even with a new 200 Suzuki ,top speed and cruising is is not what it should be and the scuppers are at waterline.I've improved it some by raising the motor,adding a hydro-foil,adding weight forward and I've ordered a 4 blade prop.But I've always thought the tapered pods made no sense and flush is the way to go.If I can't get this boat dialed in ,I may have to spring for a new floatation pod,but I measured and it looks like my 25" motor would be sitting pretty low,pod would have to be very close to waterline.
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Agreed, the stepped pod might provide a 'bit' of flotation when the boat is just floating, but zero flotation at speed. Hard to assess, but
I see that your motor is already mounted at its highest position. If the anti-cavitation isn't skimming cleanly on the surface of the water at speed then its still too low. A hydraulic jack plate would be a great modification on a boat like this. If you are in bad weather, the current setup might seem like its too high - in calm weather, too low.

When I was adjusting my engine, I had trouble imagining what it was supposed to look like in order to properly assess.

Here's a video of an outboard mounted too low (even in the 2nd half when he re-mounts, its still too low):

Here's another with a guy playing with a Yamaha. Starts off too low but after raising it only one hole, he gets it totally dialed in. He's also playing with different props, but it really gives you the idea of what it looks like when the anti-cavitation plate is just skimming the water (see video at 1:50).
 
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If your truely gonna ( keep this one) LOL id get a new pod something that is full length and be done with it, so kicker and cooler and every thing out the back. easy and simple.
 
Brando said:
Edit X2: just cause I’m on a roll here I’ll add that @wolf your pod is well designed 30” leg with a motor well puts you high out of the water 👍🏻. That is the only “downside” to an extension you might need a 30” leg depending how your hull is designed which can prove to be more difficult if your shopping used.
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Yes I wanted it so my engine was way higher up as I hate when I see pods while fishing always going under water, as they are mounted so low.
 
I'm pretty sure I've got it as high as it can go,it was starting to cavitate until I put the hydrofoil on.The problem is with the tapered pod ,the prop isn't running in clean water like a transom mount motor or hull extension ."Wolf" I'm finding a lot that I like with this boat and I've improved the ride quite a bit already.I'm hoping the 4 blade prop will make as much improvement as I've heard.
 
searun said:
Here's a picture showing how the hull extension follows the shape of the hull all the way back to the engines. Main advantage is there is no loss of laminar flow of water so the engines are fully supported by smooth flowing water that continues along the hull. Pods that step up from the transom create a void behind the area where the pod is attached and steps up from the bottom of the hull creating unstable water flow leading to a porpoising effect. I've had a pod constructed/installed on my previous boat and it was unstable with a porpoising effect created by the step up design of the pod. On my current Grady, we completed a hull extension which allowed me to close in the transom area where Grady had a drop down transom gate to allow the engines to be tilted up. Now that is fully closed in creating great storage and a tackle station at the rear. The boat actually performs way better with a hull extension as it seems to provide additional lift to the stern which really improved the ride and handling in rough seas. Not to mention the boat was 3 mph faster at similar engine RPM's. Hope this helps in your deliberations. Based on my experience with both types (Pod vs Extension), I would highly recommend an Extension.

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Your shop floor is filthy, can you please clean that up a little so I can see how my hair looks?? Thank you
 
Rayvon said:
I'm pretty sure I've got it as high as it can go,it was starting to cavitate until I put the hydrofoil on.The problem is with the tapered pod ,the prop isn't running in clean water like a transom mount motor or hull extension ."Wolf" I'm finding a lot that I like with this boat and I've improved the ride quite a bit already.I'm hoping the 4 blade prop will make as much improvement as I've heard.
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My pod is similar, and when the suke 300 went on I played with the height, to high it blows out in sloppy conditions so got it a bit lower and seems a happy medium, it does purpoise if not trimmed properly, with the Honda it did not, only difference was a 4 blade prop on the Honda
 
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