Changing a Boats Colour

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orion15

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Hi
i have a double eagle boat witch is bright orange and i would love to know if anybody out there would know how much it would be$$$, too have done ?Look at this boat : http://vancouver.craigslist.org/boa/291466225.html and tell me how much it would cost to take all the orange off and put some white on. thanks so much

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MyEscape use to be faded out pukey yellow on the outside on the top deck but the inside was not. So not as much painting as you would have to do. In your case you would have to remove the windshield to. A buddy of mine painted mine base coat metalic then clearcoated (Automotive Paint)The paint has held up well. You'll have to check around for pricing.

Cheers ME
 
If you want to do it your self and not care if it is a perfect job you can use a paint called easy-poxy and you roll it on and then get a dry brush and back brush it being an epoxy base it is cool to watch as it goes smooth it wont be like a mirror like being sprayed on but it is very shiny and not bad for being smooth lasts a long time (white).

If you guys remember the ol blue wolf and how shiney the hull was thats how it was painted and still looks good 10 years later and I did it that way because it was going to be 2 grand for it to be sprayed and cost me 100 bucks to do it with easy poxy.


Good luck Wolf
 
ya you can "roll and tip" the top deck no problem, I did it on an old boat and it didn't turn out perfect but looked 100% better.

Just give it a good sanding, fill any holes, nicks etc, put a primer coat or 2 on and then another couple coats of paint.

The sanding and prep will take the longest, the painting will go pretty quick once you're set up.
 
heres how the paint looked after 5 years!!!


F1170020.jpg

Wolf
 
After what it cost me to paint my rig, and the number of times I wince as as 2 pound ball bounces off the side, I wonder if I'll ever paint a boat that gets used again! Word of advice, don't mask around stuff, REMOVE it. EVERYTHING on a boat moves, and around anything that I didn't remove (Mainly just the windows and rub rail), you can see where they have moved against the new paint. Wolf is right, roll and tip can produce good results, you can actually get a mirror finish if you want to get freaky with some LPU paints, I've seen some guys lay it down and had it look sprayed in a boat shed in Cow Bay. They looked like they really knew what they were doing, and they were tipping off with foam brushes.
 
Thanks for all the advice, could you also tell me the kind of paint you use for the black bottom of the boat, and how much would you think i need for a 16ft boat.:D thanks
 
How would i remove the windshield or should I, and all the rest of the stuff on my boat like the stuff i cant even unscrew because it seems to be stuck( you know with the metal and the salt water on boats.)
also you know that rim around the edge.( kinda like the bumper )
or should i just use masking tape around the stuff i cant get off.
thanks for the advise





quote:Originally posted by LastChance

After what it cost me to paint my rig, and the number of times I wince as as 2 pound ball bounces off the side, I wonder if I'll ever paint a boat that gets used again! Word of advice, don't mask around stuff, REMOVE it. EVERYTHING on a boat moves, and around anything that I didn't remove (Mainly just the windows and rub rail), you can see where they have moved against the new paint. Wolf is right, roll and tip can produce good results, you can actually get a mirror finish if you want to get freaky with some LPU paints, I've seen some guys lay it down and had it look sprayed in a boat shed in Cow Bay. They looked like they really knew what they were doing, and they were tipping off with foam brushes.
Click to expand...
 
Okay i'm almost done taking everything off, just a few more things. but the things i have left are all rusted or the screw is stripped, is there any way of getting the bolt out when its totally not moving,I tried using one of those bits for the drill that drills right though the stuck screw but it only went so far and then it just stopped and didn't grind though anymore. this is to remove the side panels so i can have easier access to the bolts that are holding the windshield and i'm going to paint the panels too. The other hard thing is the metal things on the front and back that you tie the rope too (Just slipped my Mind[B)]) well the screws in them sure dont move, so any ideas on what my next step should be please tell. Of course i've tried lots of WD-40 on all the screws and that has helped on most of them but now just the rest.:D
 
quote:Originally posted by orion15

Okay i'm almost done taking everything off, just a few more things. but the things i have left are all rusted or the screw is stripped, is there any way of getting the bolt out when its totally not moving,I tried using one of those bits for the drill that drills right though the stuck screw but it only went so far and then it just stopped and didn't grind though anymore. this is to remove the side panels so i can have easier access to the bolts that are holding the windshield and i'm going to paint the panels too. The other hard thing is the metal things on the front and back that you tie the rope too (Just slipped my Mind[B)]) well the screws in them sure dont move, so any ideas on what my next step should be please tell. Of course i've tried lots of WD-40 on all the screws and that has helped on most of them but now just the rest.:D
Click to expand...

Every boater should have a set of those Canadian Tire Screw extractors, they are a godsend. They will be able to walk the screws out or bust the heads trying. If you are talking about your cleats, it is very unlikley they have screws holding them down, there should be some nuts on the backside of 'em. If there are nuts, and the bolts are good and stuck, don't un-screw them, tighten them to break the nuts off, otherwise you get a half-undone screw.
 
Yeah, i'm still not done but i'm having some trouble with the windshield, i've taken all the nuts off but it still wont budge, i've been pushing it and pulling ( and Lifted it ) but its still as solid as a rock[?] i'm now thinking i should just paint around it or something. because i dont want to break it off.

i'll be checking back soon and thanks very much.
thanks
 
So after i took out like 30 nuts I should just let it stay?
or what should my next step be?
 
Orion, the older Double Eagles just had plywood backing for the cleats,I just drilled mine out, and GENTLY pried the cleats off.The side panels on the lower edge are screwed into a 3/4 inch plywood stffener that runs the length of the side of the boat,alls I did was pulled out firmly on the bottom and just backed the screws out,pain in the butt.The top screws all had to be drilled out and even then it was tough to pop it off.Cant help with the windshield didnt try that.For tough siezed bolts I use Break Free CLP it is awesome stuff.Good Luck DAN
 
Thanks, So what should i use to fill in holes in on the inside of the boat, like just above the side panels on the inside. Basically i'm looking for something that will not crack over time or shrink. It shouldn't be getting to wet seeing its on the inside of the boat. let me know thanks
 
Have never filled holes on a boat,but when we used to repair damage on fiberglass race car bodies we used to grind the back side of the panel lightly and put a layer of mat on it ,flip it over and body filler and paint the exterior of the panel.Seemed to work alright.I'm sure someone has done a boat. DAN
 
west marine (and i am sure other places) have like a putty you mix up and fill the holes with, works pretty good, just cant remember the name of it, you do mean like small holes and not big ones right, just go to your local marine supply they can set you up
 
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