Cable vs. Braided

SerengetiGuide

SerengetiGuide

Well-Known Member
So curious as to what your guys experiences with them are and which you think is better. I know many say less drag with the braided...but I've seen them both at the same depth with samee weight...and braided was farther back. Considering I use angle of line for speed...kinda important to know haha. Plan on putting the braided on on Wednesday...sick of the breaks.

Thanks in advance,
David

www.serengetifishingcharters.com
 
I think this one has beeen flogged before, but here's my findings.
I put the 150# Power Pro on. I wanted the 200#, but they were sold out. I absolutely love it. I'll never go back to wire line.
Make sure you use the snubbers.
It does put my counter out a little bit.(about 10' at 140')
Super glue the stoppers.
One problem that I did have was the stuff is so slippery the pulleys weren't turning. I had to strip the pulleys down, clean and lubricate them, and reassemble.
Most guys I've talked to don't like the Scotty Dyneema because it's too thick with too much drag.
Change over, you'll never go back.

Two problems:
Can't use a Black Box.
Stacking is difficult because the clips slide.
 
David

I switched one over earlier this year and now have both switched. At first I could see no real difference, until I had a strand run up under my fingernail. That made me remember why I hated wire[:p]. I like it, easy to see (Neon Yellow), seems to run a little deeper, no frayed strands catching fingers, does not kink and, knock on wood, it would be easier to remove from a prop. It will however, break if nicked and does leak a little colour.

I miss the hum and have had to learn the angles game all over again. I will not be going back. I do however keep a spare spool of wire on board, just in case.

What are you switching over to??

SS

Fishing001.jpg
 
I have the 200 power Pro in dark green on all three riggers with 4 feet of 100# ganyon for some stretch as well as snapping clips. Double wrapping clips for dragging in the winter. I will never go back to wire again. Very smooth on and off riggs and much less drag for deep winter fishing, have not lost a ball since. It must work, I can't catch a Spring in Sooke, just like the other 800 boats out pounding today![:p]

www.tailspincharters.com
 
Zincs are what keep your boat to an appropriate charge. I switched to the scotty braid and like the others I will never go back to wire. Make sure you use the scotty snubbers to your cannonballs as they will snap if you get caught up.
 
Scotty now makes an auto stop bead for braided line. It is in their new catalog and is part #2008. They sent me a couple to try when I called to ask what I should use for braided.
 
Has anyone come up with a solution for stacking clips on the braided line? It would suck to not be able to fish an extra rod when you want to.

Highliner
Fish2-2.gif
 
like ciovano said theres auto stop beads for braided available since last year as long as your using scotty downriggers they will work so you can stack your lines but if you don't have your clip under the beed they will ride up I snap my bottom clip to my snubber but there are so many advantages to braided I haven't dropped a ball yet and I've been using it over a year, it doesn't conduct curent, it's really quiet in the water, ni kinking no rusting no breaking, and you'll see they braided might drag a little more use 15lb balls and you'll be just fine
 
quote:Originally posted by Highliner

Has anyone come up with a solution for stacking clips on the braided line? It would suck to not be able to fish an extra rod when you want to.

Highliner
Fish2-2.gif
Click to expand...

If you're going to stack, I suggest you buy some of the red Scotty auto stop beads made specifically for braid. I use one on the braid at the level I want to attach the stacked clip. I also put two of the red stoppers up the braid from the clip (right next to each other so they won't slip) to stop the rigger when it's coming up so it won't knock the clip off if I forget or I'm fighting a fish. Works for me. It will cause you to have to restart the auto up one extra time. However, I've lost several clips and releases over the years forgetting to stop it when it's comimg up and this eliminates that.

Slabby
 
No plans on stacking...tough enough on some days to keep up with 2 rods.

The main thing I'm thinking about is keeping the boat's voltage at a good level...as we got some electronic stuff done and i'm thinking it may be off at the moment...actually almost positive it is...and when i go back up on Thursday...I'm using the voltmeter we carry on baord to find out exactly. Then if so..change to braided? Or buy a black box?

Thanks again guys...huge help...still young and have $#!t loads to learn.
David

www.serengetifishingcharters.com
 
Before you put your riggers in the water test your boats voltage to the water. This will be what you will be reading once you change to braided line. Switch meter to DC volts. Hang the positive lead of the voltmeter in the water and take the negative to the negative on your battery.
If your voltage is way out of whack then look to a black box. If it is close then look at adding or downsizing your zincs.
Best example I ever saw for fish reacting to voltage was a tank test with sharks and they used to plates with 0.1 volts between them about 6 feet apart and if the sharks swam through they sped up as if kicked to get past.
 
Hmm so we have 5 batteries onboard...starboard starter (just died actually about 2 weeks ago), emerg parallel, house battery, emerg parallel, and port starter. So should I do it to every battery or just the house battery as it is the one that controls the downrigger?

www.serengetifishingcharters.com
 
quote:Originally posted by SerengetiGuide

Hmm so we have 5 batteries onboard...starboard starter (just died actually about 2 weeks ago), emerg parallel, house battery, emerg parallel, and port starter. So should I do it to every battery or just the house battery as it is the one that controls the downrigger?

www.serengetifishingcharters.com
Click to expand...

all of your grounds (-) should be attached together, atached to the motors and anything else big and metal on your boat including your boat if it's alum.

At that point it does not matter what which battery you attach to to test to.
 
ps: if you have electric start or alternator on your motors they are already grounded to there battery
 
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