Is there a rod/reel you can jig for salmon and lingcod? + overall reel/rod questions.

[smokedvw]

I'm trying to ideally find a rod and reel combo I can jig both salmon and lingcod. I posted a while back about an entry-mid level jigging rod. I took the advice and got some used gear. I ended up with a UglyStick Tiger Lite 6'3 50-100 braided, 4-7oz lure and a UglyStick 7' Medium rod 10-50lb 4-7 oz lure rating and an older Penn 330 LD Lever drag reel. I ran 80lb braid on the reel.

For this season we have been fishing for lingcod in a location off Haro Straight which has a quick current and around 150-230' I have been using 14-16oz jigs with swimtails. I have noticed that these do a decent job to keep up with the current BUT I do find them a PITA to bring back up when I am down 200' and redrop to keep them straight up and down. My thoughts on this was to switch to a lever drag with a 40"+ type of retrieve per reel. Last night though I decided to check out a different location with less current and was able to use a 6oz jig and swimtail. It was like a night and day difference in jigging but also the speed I could reel the jig up. It took very little time when I was in 100-120' of water with a 6oz jig vs 14oz. Though I only caught small ling/rock cod and was targeting larger fish.

1. Will a new reel make a difference or do I need to get my reel serviced?
When brining up the 14oz jig on that older Penn 330 LD it seems to almost slip as I reel, it is obviously heavier and I cant reel it up as easily as a 6oz jig and re-drop. I'm wondering if I get a new reel will that issue go away or is that just a problem that exists with larger jigs on level drag reels and this is normal? I know with a larger fish on there it feels like its also taking longer to bring it up and obviously because its heavier and you cant just pull a fish directly up The gearing on that reel is 3.7:1 (I have not tried to service this reel). I'm trying to figure out if a new reel will have a constant retrieve rate even if something on the other end is heavy, obviously I know I couldn't turn the handle as fast and if it's a fish it may pull etc.

2. Is there a reel / rod combo I can use for both salmon and lingcod?
In trying to find out if there would be a rod I can use for both salmon and lingcod I wonder if it is possible when trying to use it on those larger jigs? I can see it being a possibility to setup a salmon/ling rod with 50lb braid and then a top shot but is that realistic? Using fluorocarbon leader for the jigs in the 2-8oz jib/swimbaits but is it possible if you move to heavy jigs (14oz) or is that really going to be classified as a ling/halibut setup and I need a different rod/reel setup for jigging salmon?

3. Which rod?
In a lot of reading it seems like people recommend the Shimano Trevala rods for those butterfly jigs and salmon but when looking at the lure rating the only one that supports 12oz is the TVC66H 80-200 line, heavy, M. Fast action. I had also received recommendations on the Amundson Savy Sumo 6'6 rod with a line rate 100-200, heavy power, M. Fast action for lingcod.

3. Reel for salmon/lingcod?
I was thinking a Penn 30 Squall or Fathom 30 lever drag both around 18-20oz, the Fathom has a lot more drag to it 23lb strike, 28lb vs 13 on the squal. I know this will work for lingcod will this also work for Salmon?

Thanks for the inputs!

 

[tbeatm]

I personally use the Shimano Trevala MH paried with a Shimano Tekota 500 (6:3:1 ratio) for both salmon and lingcod jigging. Lings love those butterfly jigs but I also run other needlefish jigs for salmon, haven't had to worry too much about the lure weight.

I run 65lb braid to bead swivel to fluoro leader, swap the leader out to heavier stuff sometimes if I am only targeting ling just to save nicks from my salmon leader.

 

[Macdeep]

I wouldn’t over think it. Lingcod don’t care about your rod and reel. As long as the rod and reel are heavily built to crank up 20-40lb fish you’re fine. I started with mooching reels and rods for everything and they caught fish just fine.

If you’re targeting lings in areas with a lot of current, fish the slack tides.

For the reeling speed. 1- make sure you drag it tightened down so that every crank pulls in line. If the spoon isn’t spinning to bring line in when reeling up, tighten the drag. 2 - gear ratio is what pulls in more line per cranks. If you’re into a new reel, then definitely consider that. Lots of models to go with.

For rods, as I’ve said, I started jigged using mooching rods but now mostly use short heavy Hali rods but occasionally even use a med-heavy spinning rod for shallower spots where I might want to cast or jig depending on what’s going on. They all work but some people like to get really dialed in with their specialized gear.

Servicing your reel won’t make it reel any faster but it may help the drag hold better- replace the drag washers on the old reel you have.

 

[Aquaholic]

I wouldn’t over think it. Lingcod don’t care about your rod and reel. As long as the rod and reel are heavily built to crank up 20-40lb fish you’re fine. I started with mooching reels and rods for everything and they caught fish just fine.

On a lodge trip a few years ago, we jigged ling only on a Shimano 10'6 and an MR2. It worked fine, but when a halibut unexpectedly took the bait, wooo-eee..!

 

[RiverBoy]

My slow pitch rod which is a WestCoast Fishing Tackle slow pitch rod is 6’3” long and thin as a car antenna. i currently have it paired with. an Abu with 4:1 retrieve ratio. i’ve easily handled a tyee and a 32 ling cod with that setup. i’ve been using. a 160 gram jig ( 5.5 ounces) and 30 lb braid.

you can jig that setup all day

the swim tails have their place though

 

[sly_karma]

Jigging that deep means heavy lures, as you've found. Rod needs to be appropriate. I love my Trevala MH as an each-way bet for salmon and bottom fish it's not a fit for gear that heavy. I like the centre weighted jigs like Mr Slow and Shimano butterfly, but it would be a rare day with neither wind nor current for those to be suitable to drop in 300 ft.

I see two choices here: go with the lighter rods that still play salmon well and bottom fish to ~150-200 ft, or get a heavier rod for the deeper drops and weighty lures.

You can switch the same reel between those rods though. Fast 6:1 retrieve is good either way.

 

[Macdeep]

having re-read the original post, it seems like he has the right sort of rods for deeper heavy jigging, it’s the retrieve rate of the old 330 LD (3.7) that looks like is the issue.

I feel that pain. I started ground fishing with a Penn long beach (probably in the low 3s? Or 2.5 gear ) and a 6’6” ugly stick.

Mind you now I’m running 2 used Penn 320 gt2s and a used tr2000 at 4.3 and 4.2 respectively, but I’ve never felt like I’ve suffered much.

Mind you, my level winds for steelhead are nearly 6 and that’s a nice snappy retrieve rate!

You should be able to find a used reel under 200$ that would be a major upgrade for you. Keep your current reel and get the drag washers upgraded and keep it serviced/greased every so often and it will still get lots of fish for you for a long time.

 

[Old Blue]

What's your price range?

Honestly over time the squall reels will not last in the salt but have decent value.

The 320's/330's etc are great budget reels and last a few years but there's a rather large gap between them and other slightly higher priced reels. Once you try other reels you'll understand and go down that spiraling path. Buy once, cry once so go for quality.

 

[Old Blue]

The Fathom 30 is oversized in my opinion just because of the line capacity you need. The Fathom 15XN 2 speed has a lot of power and can hold enough line but also is pretty light so your arms will not get tired let alone the narrow spool collects line more evenly

 

[Wondermur]

Hey @smokedvw
You will get 20 different recommendations on what rod and reel is best for you. You have a pretty old school setup. Yes reeling up 14-16oz gets to be hard work after a while.
3 suggestions to make it easier with the gear you have.

1. Check that your drag is set correctly, you only need 7-8lbs drag for lings. Put some lead weight on the end of your rod and set it so the lead drops at about 8lbs. Mark where that setting is on your lever drag with a marker pen. Then you can adjust up or down from there. Also if braid is tied incorrectly to the spool it can slip on the spool. If you think this is happening take the braid off and put electrical tape around the spool then retie the braid and it will grip on the tape and fix that problem.

2. Get a Scotty rod holder like in the picture, you can then reel up without holding the rod at all. Slip the reel forward from its normal position 3” and you will find it very easy to wind your gear up. The rod holder will keep the reel still. You can even use your other hand if you get tired.

3. The Penn 330 is a big heavy and high reel. It wobbles when you are winding up a fish. Hold the rod in front of the reel so your left arm is against the side of the Penn and bracing it so it wobbles less. That reel will probably reel in 30”+ per handle turn - that is fine. Don’t worry about the gearing that is not the problem. Make sure the spool is full of line if you want to get more inches per crank.


This rod and reel combo weighs 430 grams and that jig weighs 400 grams. The rod is rated for up to 200 gram jigs but handles double that ok. Swimtails don’t need any snap from the rod. I have used it for salmon ling and Halibut this year, 30lb braid and have had 13 halibut to the boat this year, 4 of which were over 126cm. I’m not saying buy this setup at all just that you don’t need heavy gear for the fishing you are doing. Little reels are easier to wind up, and light gear is easier to jig for long periods. With little reels you can hold/cup the real with your non winding hand, you don’t get that wobble.

Hope this helps.

 

[Loghauler]

You can do anything with anything
Don’t take my word for it just look around you ! Now I’m not saying anything to or about anyone but if your jigging rod does double duty long stroking it and by that I mean setting the hook and by that I mean standing up and getting the job done who am I to discriminate
My rod had been known to jigg a few !

 

[tinboatrobb]

You can get a rod and reel combo at Canadian Tire for under 150$ that will do the same thing that guys spend hundreds of thousands of dollars on. Don't fall for the whole you need the best gear crap. I know this from personal experience. Now I use a 300$ combo after years of cheaper ones.

 

[Loghauler]

They all catch fish read the thread about the guy who forgot his rods and only had a part roll of leader line to hand line with

 

[tinboatrobb]

They all catch fish read the thread about the guy who forgot his rods and only had a part roll of leader line to hand line with

I have read it. Song think that you need Islander reels and big name brand stuff. I like a level wind reel and a 9 ft rod for trolling and jigging.

 

[jackfish]

You can get a rod and reel combo at Canadian Tire for under 150$ that will do the same thing that guys spend hundreds of thousands of dollars on. Don't fall for the whole you need the best gear crap. I know this from personal experience. Now I use a 300$ combo after years of cheaper ones.

I agree...except with regards to how long the reel will last in the salt. I've found that the low cost CDN tire level wind reels last one season in the salt, and that's it. I've tried disassembling and cleaning, but they are so cheaply constructed it wasn't successful. Maybe if somehow I disassembled the reels every time I fished in the salt, and cleaned them out, they'd last longer. Dunno.

 

[BearCove]

My slow pitch rod which is a WestCoast Fishing Tackle slow pitch rod is 6’3” long and thin as a car antenna. i currently have it paired with. an Abu with 4:1 retrieve ratio. i’ve easily handled a tyee and a 32 ling cod with that setup. i’ve been using. a 160 gram jig ( 5.5 ounces) and 30 lb braid.

you can jig that setup all day

the swim tails have their place though

Absolutely wicked rods, used one down in Mexico a few weeks ago while fishing for Dorado, super strong rod

 

[RiverBoy]

Absolutely wicked rods, used one down in Mexico a few weeks ago while fishing for Dorado, super strong rod

yah i love it. i now have a daiwa lexa hd 300 reel and the setup is now my main setup. my down riggers and MR3’s collect dust

 

[PEETZcanada]

I run various Shimano Grapler rods and Daiwa Tatula 8:1 300 loaded with 20lbs J-Braid. I did just buy a Daiwa Harrier before i retired from PNT in Oct to try out this season. I run these set ups for Ling, salmon and the occasional Hali.

I like fast reels, both on the drop and retrieve cycle.

 

[BearCove]

yah i love it. i now have a daiwa lexa hd 300 reel and the setup is now my main setup. my down riggers and MR3’s collect dust

I put a 13 Fishing 5.0 spin cast reel on mine with 40# braid. Has handled everything I’ve through at it so far

 

[jackfish]

I must be unlucky, or something. Broke two shimano TDR this winter, trolling. One medium, and the other a med-heavy. The medium snapped 6 inches back from the tip when landing a salmon, and the med-heavy snapped right above the joint when yanking the line off the downrigger clip. They are only $50 rods, so I guess its not such a terrible loss. But I was really surprised those rods would break with 30lb mono on them. I am thinking I must have compromised the one that broke at the tip without realizing it. The other though...how the heck does a med-heavy rod snap in half with 30lb line on it.

My question for this thread is...do pricier rods snap less?