Adding brakes to boat trailer

[Baxter]

Long story short. Sold our travel trailer. No longer need half ton. Switching to hybrid suv. Going to cry when my Tundra is sold!!

Problem though. The Hybrid SUV that is at the top of our list can only tow 1650lbs without brakes. Capacity is 3500 with brakes.

Is it feasible to have brakes added and any idea what kind of cost is associated with it? Currently have an ezloader with the kingfisher 1825 on it. Estimated all in weight is in the neighborhood of 2200lbs.

So do I add brakes to the trailer or eliminate our front runner vehicle?

 

[Ringo]

Downgrading from a truck sucks! There are a couple of things to consider:

1- how far are you planning to tow that boat? If it’s only a short drive to the launch, you might be able to get away without the brakes. Although, ICBC has safety requirements that you definitely don’t want to ignore.

2- If you’re planning to tow for long distance like going up and down the Coquihalla, you may want to look at the SUV’s transmission and the cooling system. 2,200lbs may sound light but when you add gas, gear, luggage and a couple of passengers in a hot summer day, it may really push the safety limits.

Adding disk breaks and having somebody to professionally convert your single axle EZLoader used to cost around $2k. Although I can be totally out to lunch. Good luck!

 

[Baxter]

Downgrading from a truck sucks! There are a couple of things to consider:

1- how far are you planning to tow that boat? If it’s only a short drive to the launch, you might be able to get away without the brakes. Although, ICBC has safety requirements that you definitely don’t want to ignore.

2- If you’re planning to tow for long distance like going up and down the Coquihalla, you may want to look at the SUV’s transmission and the cooling system. 2,200lbs may sound light but when you add gas, gear, luggage and a couple of passengers in a hot summer day, it may really push the safety limits.

Adding disk breaks and having somebody to professionally convert your single axle EZLoader used to cost around $2k. Although I can be totally out to lunch. Good luck!

Thx for the response. Mostly short distances. In Comox to Comox harbour. Comox to Kitty Coleman (20 min drive). Stuff like that.
Not super worried, but still want to be safe and don’t want to trash SUVs brakes.

 

[chille51]

I added Kodiak disc brakes and a surge controller to an EZ Loader last year. My total bill was a little over $3K including taxes. That said, I also had them replace all the bunk rusty bunk supports on the trailer and clean up a bunch of the wiring, so that cost was more than just the brakes.

 

[the force]

I redid my corroded out hydraulic brakes with electric drums last year which was pretty straight forward. Needed hub and drum assembly (included new bearings), electric brake assembly, wire/connectors, junction box, and breakaway box (inc a battery) and RV plug. I’m using these terms loosely but could go back and look at some receipts if you wanted more detail/price.
I did a double axle trailer, you could likely do single axle trailer for a very approximate $800 (yourself).
I’m no expert, and can’t tell you how electric compare to hydraulic or Elec over hydraulic but they worked well for me and where more responsive then my old hydraulic ones.

 

[DHT09]

I would stick with hydraulic (surge) brakes, yes if you are in 100% salt water and are launching frequently the stainless option is money well spent. Pay once instead of dealing with stuck brakes. 22' boat does not need EOH brakes, simple surge hydraulic brakes are fine.

 

[Damn Ugly]

Stainless surge disc brakes are a reasonably easy DIY if you've got some experience. Check out https://www.easternmarine.com/

 

[Max123]

Surge brakes are going to be cheapest/easiest, and in line with what you want for a boat your size. Surge coupler is going to be about $300, and then the discs/calipers are can start as cheap as $350 and go up above $1000 for stainless. On top of that, you will need to run the hard hydraulic lines as well.

I've never added calipers to an existing trailer, so you may need to check that the trailer axle has the brake mounting flange. Some light duty axles may not have it (and not sure how to add later).

Personally, I hate drum brakes. Discs are so easy to service/change pads. I absolutely loath taking apart drums with all those fiddly springs

 

[sly_karma]

Thx for the response. Mostly short distances. In Comox to Comox harbour. Comox to Kitty Coleman (20 min drive). Stuff like that.
Not super worried, but still want to be safe and don’t want to trash SUVs brakes.

I don't know much about hybrids, but ask dealer about regenerative braking on the vehicle you're interested in. Does it have a regen mode? (Some car makers call this One Pedal Driving). Reason I mention this is my EV truck has this, and it provides all the braking I could ever need when the boat is hitched up. Mine is a 1300 kg/3000 lb rig when fully loaded and fuelled, and has no trailer brakes at all. Just lift off the accelerator pedal and it slows down fast. Like a Jake brake without the noise.

 

[Max123]

Keep in mind

I don't know much about hybrids, but ask dealer about regenerative braking on the vehicle you're interested in. Does it have a regen mode? (Some car makers call this One Pedal Driving). Reason I mention this is my EV truck has this, and it provides all the braking I could ever need when the boat is hitched up. Mine is a 1300 kg/3000 lb rig when fully loaded and fuelled, and has no trailer brakes at all. Just lift off the accelerator pedal and it slows down fast. Like a Jake brake without the noise.

Keep in mind that in BC the Motor Vehicle act says you don't need a trailer brake if you meet two criteria:
1) if the licensed weight of the trailer is less than 1400kg, and
2) is less than 50% of the licensed vehicle weight of the vehicle by which it is being towed,

Remember, the Act says AND, not OR - you need to meet both. In order for the 1400kg rule to apply, the tow vehicle must also weigh at least 2800kg, which is significantly heavier than most medium/light SUVs. @sly_karma's F-150 Lighting gets close to full tow rating because it weighs 2700kgs (based on a quick google search, base model, other models weigh more). However a hybrid Highlander or Outlander is going to top out closer to 2000kg, meaning you are limited closer to a max 1000kg trailer.

For towing in-town, I'd risk it. However, anything with downhill braking/corners at highway speed and I'd stick with the manufacturer's recommendations because they account for both the uphill strain on engine and trans, as well as brake, frame & hitch capacity.

I've driven highway 3 enough times to have seen a few boats/trucks in the ditch between Manning and Princeton (always people driving westward going downhill from Sunday Summit). I bet the experience of of feeling a trailer pushing you into a jack-knife at speed is terrifying. When you approach a corner (especially going downhill), brake early when the trailer is right in line behind the tow vehicle - once you are in the corner, its too late.

 

[sly_karma]

Keep in mind

Keep in mind that in BC the Motor Vehicle act says you don't need a trailer brake if you meet two criteria:
1) if the licensed weight of the trailer is less than 1400kg, and
2) is less than 50% of the licensed vehicle weight of the vehicle by which it is being towed,

Remember, the Act says AND, not OR - you need to meet both. In order for the 1400kg rule to apply, the tow vehicle must also weigh at least 2800kg, which is significantly heavier than most medium/light SUVs. @sly_karma's F-150 Lighting gets close to full tow rating because it weighs 2700kgs (based on a quick google search, base model, other models weigh more). However a hybrid Highlander or Outlander is going to top out closer to 2000kg, meaning you are limited closer to a max 1000kg trailer.

For towing in-town, I'd risk it. However, anything with downhill braking/corners at highway speed and I'd stick with the manufacturer's recommendations because they account for both the uphill strain on engine and trans, as well as brake, frame & hitch capacity.

I've driven highway 3 enough times to have seen a few boats/trucks in the ditch between Manning and Princeton (always people driving westward going downhill from Sunday Summit). I bet the experience of of feeling a trailer pushing you into a jack-knife at speed is terrifying. When you approach a corner (especially going downhill), brake early when the trailer is right in line behind the tow vehicle - once you are in the corner, its too late.

Great info there. I was not aware of the 50% of tow vehicle limit. It makes sense though.

 

[Fishalot]

I put brakes on my last EZ Loader boat trailer. I used the 9.6” disc brake kit from Eastern Marine. Easy install and it came with rubber hoses so no hardlines required. You can install yourself if you have basic tools and skills.

 

[Baxter]

Keep in mind

Keep in mind that in BC the Motor Vehicle act says you don't need a trailer brake if you meet two criteria:
1) if the licensed weight of the trailer is less than 1400kg, and
2) is less than 50% of the licensed vehicle weight of the vehicle by which it is being towed,

Remember, the Act says AND, not OR - you need to meet both. In order for the 1400kg rule to apply, the tow vehicle must also weigh at least 2800kg, which is significantly heavier than most medium/light SUVs. @sly_karma's F-150 Lighting gets close to full tow rating because it weighs 2700kgs (based on a quick google search, base model, other models weigh more). However a hybrid Highlander or Outlander is going to top out closer to 2000kg, meaning you are limited closer to a max 1000kg trailer.

For towing in-town, I'd risk it. However, anything with downhill braking/corners at highway speed and I'd stick with the manufacturer's recommendations because they account for both the uphill strain on engine and trans, as well as brake, frame & hitch capacity.

I've driven highway 3 enough times to have seen a few boats/trucks in the ditch between Manning and Princeton (always people driving westward going downhill from Sunday Summit). I bet the experience of of feeling a trailer pushing you into a jack-knife at speed is terrifying. When you approach a corner (especially going downhill), brake early when the trailer is right in line behind the tow vehicle - once you are in the corner, its too late.

Wasn't looking for the "rules". The boat & trailer is less than 50% of the weight of the vehicle and is also less than 1400kg. This was never the issue. The need for brakes was a manufacturer thing.

 

[Baxter]

Thanks everyone for all your feedback!!!

We have decided to go a different route. I am just not confident that the Sante Fe Hybrid was capable enough and also was not that interested in upgrading the trailer.

We are instead opting for a Mazda CX90 - has a higher tow rating, the vehicle itself is heavier, and has roughly double the horsepower, so will be far more capable. (nicer vehicle too - although costing a lot more!).

Don't love the idea of launching a boat with a hybrid SUV - may get a hitch extender to use just at launches like Kitty to help keep the car out of the water. (putting it on and off at the launch if/as needed.)