1977 Hourston 18.2

[Oncor]

I found a 1977 Hourston one owner that looks very good and was used in lakes in southeastern BC so it never saw the ocean.

There is some minor hydrolysis on the hull and need to refinish and repair scratches on the keel or simply paint. I have been recommended both but defer to the broader audience here.

I’m thinking at least a new or two new bilge pumps. The battery is new.
Also it will need a new trolling motor and it remains to be seen by an inspector if the main motor still has life on it. Owner swears it’s in running shape (?)


My goal is to see if I can get it back on the water without a complete restoration albeit the need for at least a new trolling motor and some basic electronics.

I’m new to ownership so seeing what a more lean approach on spend may be if possible.

I’ll work on some better photos.

Let me know your thoughts, good, bad or ugly.

 

[Oncor]

A couple more photos

 

[Haymaker]

I've owned 3 hourstons and loved them all. Cosmetics on the outside is the easy stuff. At 46 years even a one owner, the water seems to always find a way into the below floor stringers and certainly transom.
The motors may run but don't expect a long life from either as they are vintage. Hopefully price is in line with possible work required.

 

[Oncor]

That makes sense, Hay.

$1000 paid with fingers crossed that I don’t have to replace a transom or stringers. I’ll take out the floor and see what we have.

I agree on the power. I’m ready to scrap the motor and for sure the kicker. I’d invest in new power or newer “lightly used” 4 stroke.

If I have to tear it apart and rebuild stringers and transom, that’s gonna be for the next lucky guy. Too much of a commitment on time for me, I’m afraid.

Only one way to find out, I guess

 

[brutus]

Not sure of your knowledge of boats, but a couple of test holes,( small drill bits) will tell you real quick what is behind the glass work, because it’s old don’t mean it’s rotted out, could be , but the only way to find out without waisting time is drilling , easy to fix small drill holes

 

[baddogg]

Looks awesome

 

[trophywife]

grab the skeg and rock it back and forth , with an eye on the transom.

 

[Oncor]

I realize these aren’t that telling but when I look at the transom without taking anything apart it feels rock hard. I also realize the bottom of the transom would be the issue most likely which you can’t see in these photos.

Drilling tiny holes in it sounds interesting but I wonder if there is a less invasive way.

 

[Oncor]

grab the skeg and rock it back and forth , with an eye on the transom.

Yeah I did that and really couldn’t see anything move or bend/flex in the transom. Tell me what else I might want to look for though.

 

[trophywife]

Yeah I did that and really couldn’t see anything move or bend/flex in the transom. Tell me what else I might want to look for though.

this boat sounds and looks solid.. a good tap test and listen for soft blows. nice find.

 

[Fritz]

I found a 1977 Hourston one owner that looks very good and was used in lakes in southeastern BC so it never saw the ocean.

There is some minor hydrolysis on the hull and need to refinish and repair scratches on the keel or simply paint. I have been recommended both but defer to the broader audience here.

I’m thinking at least a new or two new bilge pumps. The battery is new.
Also it will need a new trolling motor and it remains to be View attachment 95561seen by an inspector if the main motor still has life on it. Owner swears it’s in running shape (?)


My goal is to see if I can get it back on the water without a complete restoration albeit the need for at least a new trolling motor and some basic electronics.

I’m new to ownership so seeing what a more lean approach on spend may be if possible.

I’ll work on some better photos.

Let me know your thoughts, good, bad or ugly.

What a beautiful boat,
When I was boat shopping, I looked at a DE of the same vintage that was in Cambell River and it was covered in Pox! The alkaline in fresh water is worse than seawater for fiberglass sometimes. My 78 Hourston only had a couple osmotic blisters. Just be aware those pox can be a lot more than skin deep sometimes.
My boat also had a blown transom and the stringers in the motor well were pretty rotten but it was from allowing the boat to fill with rainwater which again is even worse than seawater for feeding rot.
If the floor isn’t spongy then that’s a good sign the boat wasn’t able to fill up like a bird bath. The D/F marine plywood floors are raw and uncoated on the bottom side, and the evaporation of bilge water would permeate the floors from the backside.
These boats were grossly overbuilt and from the photos it appears to have lived a charmed life.
From reading your other posts I think you know already that the power belongs in a museum.
I hope you have fun!

 

[Oncor]

I spoke with a company that does fiberglass work and they said that I need to

1) sand all the little gouges and cuts on bottom hill under the waterline
2) use a “patch kit” made of gelcoat and fiberglass powder. Apparently these are available from a company here called industrial plastics
3) sand finish the patches
4) paint over with antifoul paint

Any thoughts to that recommendation?

 

[Fritz]

I spoke with a company that does fiberglass work and they said that I need to

1) sand all the little gouges and cuts on bottom hill under the waterline
2) use a “patch kit” made of gelcoat and fiberglass powder. Apparently these are available from a company here called industrial plastics
3) sand finish the patches
4) paint over with antifoul paint

Any thoughts to that recommendation?

The West Systems boat repair manual which is a free download.
It has all kinds of information especially on blister repairs.
Most people get spooked by the cost of West but in reality it’s cheaper than a gallon of automotive paint and it’s the secondary bond that makes it a good product.
Also know a little goes a really long way.
They also have some decent West Systems videos linked to U-toob.
You could also just try and drive the boat around before the summer ends.
What the hell

 

[Oncor]

Has anyone out there used this product?

 

[Rayvon]

Has anyone out there used this product?

If you plan on patching above the waterline (hull,deck) the hard part is matching the colour (see the first picture).It's a job for a pro or very experienced fiberglasser.I've done it for many years on mostly my own boats and struggle every time.If it's not a perfect match you'll regret ever trying. Under waterline use epoxy or thickened gelcoat and bottom paint.The 18 Ft. Hourstons were great ,very deep hulls,well worth restoring,but I'd make sure the transom and stringers are solid before spending a ton on newer power.

 

[Oncor]

Yes this is under the waterline. There are a number of scrapes and gouges and some hydrolysis that needs to be fixed. I’ll be rolling on the antifoul paint after so my rookie skills won’t show up.

 

[Oncor]

The love affair begins….

 

[Oncor]

What is the best way to drain the tank before I pull it? Just an el cheapo siphon into 5 gallon tanks?

 

[Fritz]

What is the best way to drain the tank before I pull it? Just an el cheapo siphon into 5 gallon tanks?

Just a cheap siphon into 5 gallon jerry cans should get most of the fuel out.
I also inadvertently gave you the wrong information.
Your tank will be a 30 gallon tank.

 

[Fritz]

The love affair begins….

Some 182 Hourston Info. It also mentions the 30 gallon tank as well as some other fun stuff.
Good luck with your project