Won't be Loosing Anymore Scotty Rigger Clips

If you use a snubber, just clip onto the the coastlock at the top.
It can't go anywhere unless you break off everything.
I use a 48" clips so I like to rig my clip as close to that distance from the ball as possible. That way when I bring the gear out of the water, the clip and the ball are out of the way and not in danger of getting tangled in anything. This also stops your gear from hitting bottom when you're dragging your balls in the mud. I liked how one member had his clip tied directly to a swivel that came up through the pulley. I've been too lazy to try it.
 
If I’m getting your point right, after I put the fishing line in the clip, while still hanging on to the clip (rod is in holder now) I let the brake go down a foot or two until there’s enough tension between the clip and fishing line to eliminate any back twist. Then I let go of the clip and let the brake go to my depth. I do it if the rod is in the holder while connecting the clip, or even if I’m using a free spool feature reel and using my thumb as a brake. Just hold the rod tip high enough to give tension, release the brake to your depth, flick the free spool off and put the rod in the holder.
no i’m referring to when trolling. when i bring up the cannon, the clip line is twisted around the tuna cord. and i use finned balls and they still twist.
 
no i’m referring to when trolling. when i bring up the cannon, the clip line is twisted around the tuna cord. and i use finned balls and they still twist.
attach your clip to the fin eyelet if it has one.
i use a large ss split ring to cannon ball and just take the snap off .... for my stacking line clip i use a smallsnap from PNT that they sell for hooking on cannon balls these i have found work a treat ... scotty snap ones will or can twist themselves off ......
 
Ever since switching to this set up I haven’t seen a clip go missing.

Tuna cord however long works for your boat, swivel or knot to braid ( I’ve tried both I haven’t had a swivel fail yet like some report.) This works as your auto stop. I have mine set to stop the ball just below water surface. Crimp on tuna cord a foot from the ball to act as a stopper. Swivel below crimp to attach 200lb mono or whatever you have laying around. 200lb mono to a snap, release clip with small loop of mono. Then have a spare clip with small loop on board for swaps when clips get contaminated eliminates down time. Below swivel on tuna cord is a crimp connecting swivel/ ball clip, or loop knot to girth hitch ball. Again I haven’t had a swivel clip fail yet but have switched out after some hard ground impact damage. This way everything is attached can’t knock the clip off with the pulley or gaff. If you accidentally hit the rigger up to high the clips swivel just gets sucked in but won’t pop off.

Simple easy build it yourself, have a few spares on board for when someone pulls a @Stizzla and looses the whole rig.

Downside is storage in the garage with the attached clip can get a bit messy. I just wrap mine around the boom or what have you. Clip into the gunnel shelf when on the boat hasn’t been an issue for me.
 

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Ever since switching to this set up I haven’t seen a clip go missing.

Tuna cord however long works for your boat, swivel or knot to braid ( I’ve tried both I haven’t had a swivel fail yet like some report.) This works as your auto stop. I have mine set to stop the ball just below water surface. Crimp on tuna cord a foot from the ball to act as a stopper. Swivel below crimp to attach 200lb mono or whatever you have laying around. 200lb mono to a snap, release clip with small loop of mono. Then have a spare clip with small loop on board for swaps when clips get contaminated eliminates down time. Below swivel on tuna cord is a crimp connecting swivel/ ball clip, or loop knot to girth hitch ball. Again I haven’t had a swivel clip fail yet but have switched out after some hard ground impact damage. This way everything is attached can’t knock the clip off with the pulley or gaff. If you accidentally hit the rigger up to high the clips swivel just gets sucked in but won’t pop off.

Simple easy build it yourself, have a few spares on board for when someone pulls a @Stizzla and looses the whole rig.

Downside is storage in the garage with the attached clip can get a bit messy. I just wrap mine around the boom or what have you. Clip into the gunnel shelf when on the boat hasn’t been an issue for me.
I like it. I'd personally do two crimps to hold the clip up higher. Otherwise it's great.
 
Ever since switching to this set up I haven’t seen a clip go missing.

Tuna cord however long works for your boat, swivel or knot to braid ( I’ve tried both I haven’t had a swivel fail yet like some report.) This works as your auto stop. I have mine set to stop the ball just below water surface. Crimp on tuna cord a foot from the ball to act as a stopper. Swivel below crimp to attach 200lb mono or whatever you have laying around. 200lb mono to a snap, release clip with small loop of mono. Then have a spare clip with small loop on board for swaps when clips get contaminated eliminates down time. Below swivel on tuna cord is a crimp connecting swivel/ ball clip, or loop knot to girth hitch ball. Again I haven’t had a swivel clip fail yet but have switched out after some hard ground impact damage. This way everything is attached can’t knock the clip off with the pulley or gaff. If you accidentally hit the rigger up to high the clips swivel just gets sucked in but won’t pop off.

Simple easy build it yourself, have a few spares on board for when someone pulls a @Stizzla and looses the whole rig.

Downside is storage in the garage with the attached clip can get a bit messy. I just wrap mine around the boom or what have you. Clip into the gunnel shelf when on the boat hasn’t been an issue for me.
Best system by far. Started building and using this exact system 2 seasons back and no issues whatsoever. Also allows for quick change of clips that wear out (don't hold). 100+ days per season on the water tried and tested. I also use 400 pound martin leader which stands up really well, even if you are dragging bottom a lot (which i do frequently). Losing far fewer cannon balls too due to amazing strength of the marlin leader. Its easy to get - Amazon has plenty of options.
 
Best system by far. Started building and using this exact system 2 seasons back and no issues whatsoever. Also allows for quick change of clips that wear out (don't hold). 100+ days per season on the water tried and tested. I also use 400 pound martin leader which stands up really well, even if you are dragging bottom a lot (which i do frequently). Losing far fewer cannon balls too due to amazing strength of the marlin leader. Its easy to get - Amazon has plenty of options.
I started just replacing the yellow tips. Takes two seconds and they store easily at the helm.
 
I knocked off so many clips this summer I gave it some thought and after trying a couple different solutions this one works. They float and the bright colour makes it easy to spot if you don't get it until you turn and come back for it. Most of the time I can get the net on it without turning around.
I’ve tried this exact setup in the winter and the floats looked like raisins from the pressure at 200ft when they came up. They did go back to normal after a while. Seems fine shallow depths.
 
I use a short piece of mono tied to the clip and a snap then attach the snap to the cable. If the clip gets knocked off it slides down to the next clip or ball and is retrieved when we bring it up.
 
Used something similar for ages-same old balsa river float too,

This is the Best model though-cannot be knocked off.


X2 make my own, clipped onto the top of main swivel
NEVER clipped to the fin, why drag a ball with a fin sideways?
 
I use a short piece of mono tied to the clip and a snap then attach the snap to the cable. If the clip gets knocked off it slides down to the next clip or ball and is retrieved when we bring it up.
Great idea
 
please share mr. wolf! i used finned balls and i still get the clip line twisting in the gangion.
Well I make my own set ups so I used to work for wesking back in the day making countless thousands of snaps. i use the commercial snaps that will slide up and down inbetween the beads like to old commercial trollers did what they call number 7 B. but im sure you could use the same method by bending the crimping tang straight so it can slide up and down the gangion line, might you want it loose as it has to move freely so when coming up its doesnt spin. may have to put a knot in it so it doesnt slide all the way down to the cannon ball. Ive been using something similar as a pool noodle from a plumbing buddy (smaller) on my clips for years same as what rollie does.
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ok found a imagine ignore the old snubber LOL but you want to make the eye look like the 7 snap see how it can easly rotate around
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After loosing a few clips and for other reasons I changed to a setup where I make my own clip leaders that have a loop. to that loop i use a hawaiian snap. I then clip that to my downrigger leader/subber which I make by looping walmart/dollar store paracord. I usually have a knot int the loop of the paracor snubber and that is where I connect the closed snap to the knot which is about 1 foot down from the end of the paracord snubber.

When I store my cannon ball i hang it by the back eye to the hook on the downrigger arm. I then coil the mono line of the clip and strap it in place with a velcro strap that is also on the down rigger arm. The clips are then hanging next to the downrigger ball all on the arm of my downrigger. Makes for quick deployment when I'm ready to fish again. Haven't lost a clip since I changed to this setup
 
Ever since switching to this set up I haven’t seen a clip go missing.

Tuna cord however long works for your boat, swivel or knot to braid ( I’ve tried both I haven’t had a swivel fail yet like some report.) This works as your auto stop. I have mine set to stop the ball just below water surface. Crimp on tuna cord a foot from the ball to act as a stopper. Swivel below crimp to attach 200lb mono or whatever you have laying around. 200lb mono to a snap, release clip with small loop of mono. Then have a spare clip with small loop on board for swaps when clips get contaminated eliminates down time. Below swivel on tuna cord is a crimp connecting swivel/ ball clip, or loop knot to girth hitch ball. Again I haven’t had a swivel clip fail yet but have switched out after some hard ground impact damage. This way everything is attached can’t knock the clip off with the pulley or gaff. If you accidentally hit the rigger up to high the clips swivel just gets sucked in but won’t pop off.

Simple easy build it yourself, have a few spares on board for when someone pulls a @Stizzla and looses the whole rig.

Downside is storage in the garage with the attached clip can get a bit messy. I just wrap mine around the boom or what have you. Clip into the gunnel shelf when on the boat hasn’t been an issue for me.
Great system; where to you find the paracord crimp sleeves?
 
I just put a large 3-way swivel in-line with the tuna cord that I use for the last few feet of the cable (braid actually). The knot between the braid and the tuna cord stops the rigger with the ball at water level. The scotty clip is attached to the 3-way swivel with a coast-lock snap clip. It can't come off. The 3-way swivel prevents tangle/twisting.
 
Ever since switching to this set up I haven’t seen a clip go missing.

Tuna cord however long works for your boat, swivel or knot to braid ( I’ve tried both I haven’t had a swivel fail yet like some report.) This works as your auto stop. I have mine set to stop the ball just below water surface. Crimp on tuna cord a foot from the ball to act as a stopper. Swivel below crimp to attach 200lb mono or whatever you have laying around. 200lb mono to a snap, release clip with small loop of mono. Then have a spare clip with small loop on board for swaps when clips get contaminated eliminates down time. Below swivel on tuna cord is a crimp connecting swivel/ ball clip, or loop knot to girth hitch ball. Again I haven’t had a swivel clip fail yet but have switched out after some hard ground impact damage. This way everything is attached can’t knock the clip off with the pulley or gaff. If you accidentally hit the rigger up to high the clips swivel just gets sucked in but won’t pop off.

Simple easy build it yourself, have a few spares on board for when someone pulls a @Stizzla and looses the whole rig.

Downside is storage in the garage with the attached clip can get a bit messy. I just wrap mine around the boom or what have you. Clip into the gunnel shelf when on the boat hasn’t been an issue for me.
and what are doing if your stacking???
 
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