Winterize or not too winterize?
- Thread starter mmmroe
- Start date
tinboatrobb
Well-Known Member
Mine is only a Merc 20hp 4 stroke stored outside. I start it once or twice a month and make sure to tilt and lower motor a few times to get all the water out so it won't freeze.
I was just reading up on this... Pretty much what tinboatrob said. Most suggested doing an oil change (engine & leg) before any extended storage. No draining of the fuel system is recommended in a modern 4 stroke. I would at least check the gear case oil for any evidence of moisture / water before the first freeze if in an unheated space.
I plan on using the boat in December, so I'll do a full oil & filter change. Probably this week.
I will be adding some fuel stabilizer too. Then drive the trailer around the block to mix it well. A good 15 minute run to get the treated fuel through the system.
I have to lower the trailer tongue right down to the ground to get the motor vertical so it will drain completely. A floor jack is very helpful.
I plan on using the boat in December, so I'll do a full oil & filter change. Probably this week.
I will be adding some fuel stabilizer too. Then drive the trailer around the block to mix it well. A good 15 minute run to get the treated fuel through the system.
I have to lower the trailer tongue right down to the ground to get the motor vertical so it will drain completely. A floor jack is very helpful.
TanTastic84
Active Member
I really appreciate that someone brought this up.
I too will be storing my brand new boat outdoors and I have been running around talking to every boat guy I can meet to discuss what I can do to help maintain it as best I can throughout the winter.
I have been surprised to find the recommended winterization is relatively simple (KNOCK ON WOOD!!!!). My Honda outboard is apparently designed to be stored "wet" meaning, I am not supposed to run the motor dry. What you are supposed to do is double up your fuel stabilizer (highly recommended Sta-Bil 360 Marine), fill tank all the way up, run the motor for 10 minutes or so to pump stabil fuel into the motor and let the water drain by tilting the motor all the way down.
That's pretty much it besides keeping your batteries on trickle chargers to make sure they don't lose their juice. I also plan on wrapping the motor in moving blankets to help insulate it a bit in case we see any serious cold snaps, but here in Seattle, we don't get too crazy cold (again, knock on wood).
I do plan on using the boat on nice blue-bird winter days to do a little blackmouth or trout fishing so fogging shouldn't be too big of a concern but people I have spoke with said (as was mentioned above) that if you don't fog, then you should run the motor once or twice a month to make sure motor parts move around and get lubricated while it's sitting around.
Trailer maintenance is also very often overlooked. I put my trailer on jacks to take the weight off the tires and suspension. I don't like all that weight sitting on tires for extended periods of time. Plus, before you take the boat out, you can take your tires in to make sure their pressure is adequate. Never like a tire surprise when I'd like to take the boat out.
That'll be my process this year. I hope that'll be sufficient. This is how I kept by Arima for 6 years and it ran beautifully (30 year old Mercury 2 stroke). Not ideal, but hey, we're supposed to be using our boats! Not looking at them all winter.
I too will be storing my brand new boat outdoors and I have been running around talking to every boat guy I can meet to discuss what I can do to help maintain it as best I can throughout the winter.
I have been surprised to find the recommended winterization is relatively simple (KNOCK ON WOOD!!!!). My Honda outboard is apparently designed to be stored "wet" meaning, I am not supposed to run the motor dry. What you are supposed to do is double up your fuel stabilizer (highly recommended Sta-Bil 360 Marine), fill tank all the way up, run the motor for 10 minutes or so to pump stabil fuel into the motor and let the water drain by tilting the motor all the way down.
That's pretty much it besides keeping your batteries on trickle chargers to make sure they don't lose their juice. I also plan on wrapping the motor in moving blankets to help insulate it a bit in case we see any serious cold snaps, but here in Seattle, we don't get too crazy cold (again, knock on wood).
I do plan on using the boat on nice blue-bird winter days to do a little blackmouth or trout fishing so fogging shouldn't be too big of a concern but people I have spoke with said (as was mentioned above) that if you don't fog, then you should run the motor once or twice a month to make sure motor parts move around and get lubricated while it's sitting around.
Trailer maintenance is also very often overlooked. I put my trailer on jacks to take the weight off the tires and suspension. I don't like all that weight sitting on tires for extended periods of time. Plus, before you take the boat out, you can take your tires in to make sure their pressure is adequate. Never like a tire surprise when I'd like to take the boat out.
That'll be my process this year. I hope that'll be sufficient. This is how I kept by Arima for 6 years and it ran beautifully (30 year old Mercury 2 stroke). Not ideal, but hey, we're supposed to be using our boats! Not looking at them all winter.
Peahead
Well-Known Member
.......................................... fill tank all the way up, ..................
Here is a link to David Pascoe 's where he explains why filling fuel tanks for a long storage is not necessary. I think it may even have disadvantages. Pascoe comes from a surveying background and I find all is articles to be very informative. Having a fresh fuel fill be added to smaller amounts of old stabilized fuel after a storage period I think is better. Also I'd rather not have $900 sitting in my tanks unless I am using it.
http://www.yachtsurvey.com/myth_of_condensation_in_fuel_tanks.htm
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