windlass when anchoring for halibut

ryanb

Well-Known Member
I've done a lot of reading old topics on here on how to safely anchor for halibut. I think I get it. I've also heard mention of using a windlass. This I don't understand.

My boat has a windlass, but I don't see how I would use to retrieve a properly set up halibut anchor system. Am I missing something?
 
I used a windlass on My big boat, ran 350' of G3 chain. Picked my spot, kept boat in and out of gear to stay on location. Dumped the hook from the Bridge and pulled it up from the bridge. Had backup switches on the bow deck beside windlass. Always bow first into current. To pull the hook, I just motored slowly toward anchor, as I pulled it up. It's easy peezy! Most boats run a combo of chain and rode. My Gypsey (sprocket) was a chain only usage. Now I have a smaller boat without a windlass so I use the slider and bouy system to pick up the anchor.
 
So with halibut anchoring I have read you have a Scotchman ahead of your bow to keep pull on the bow more horizontal than vertical. I guess if you're using a windlass this is not an option?

I suppose there's no option for a quick disconnect either?

Sounds like maybe I shouldn't bother with the windlass...
 
No quick release with a windlass. Fished hali for 25 years, only ever had to go chase one fish and we still lost it. Not sure where you fish, but I run 700' 3/8 Samson braid and 20' chain on this boat and pull with the scotch man using the stainless rings. Don't be nervous using your windlass. It's just slower up and down but a good set up. Do you have a deck mount or a deck drop in style windlass? How big a boat? My other boat had a Lofrans Tigress windlass. If you call TroTac (Paul or Trevor) in Victoria or Harbour Chandler in Nanaimo, they will email you a drawing showing the set up
 
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Great diagram. I have a lewmar mounted on the bow of my 24' pilothouse and thought I could use this to retrieve the halibut anchor setup somehow. But I guess if you're going to use the windlass you have to forgo some of the safety features in the above diagram.
 
I personally wouldn't run a windless for halibut thats a lot of line/chain out and if it burns up then what...Ive seen it happen a few times and with me on a 50 ft boat with a 60 lb anchor and 100 ft of chain was not fun all hands on deck lifting it up.....
use whats in diagram its easy and safer
 
I personally wouldn't run a windless for halibut thats a lot of line/chain out and if it burns up then what...Ive seen it happen a few times and with me on a 50 ft boat with a 60 lb anchor and 100 ft of chain was not fun all hands on deck lifting it up.....
use whats in diagram its easy and safer

I have only anchored for Hali with Roy ( see you again in April ! ) so my Hali experience otherwise is mostly on the drift offshore West Coast or on the troll and often incidental but having seen Roy's anchoring method I felt using a windlass would not be very safe in exposed rough deep water fishing not to mention strong current/wind. I have a windlass on my 22' with walk around so easy bow access but after seeing the proper method I personally wouldn't anchor in deep wind exposed location using windlass. Drifting using sea anchor perhaps but not anchoring using windlass.

Couple questions about the diagram/system above ( I know I could search the topic but this is pretty specific) :

- Is the first ring better attached to or closer to the float/ buoy?
- wouldn't the second ring (ring closest to boat) be better to be larger diameter than the first one so that it doesn't slide back through after set/deployed and fishing ?
- Can the second ring be a stopper float instead of a ring, if it is big enough that it won't slide through the first ring?
- Is 400' rode enough for areas deeper than 200'- 250' ? ( Realizing you don't need larger scopes such as with overnight stays)

- Is there a rule as to weight of anchor; weight/length/type of chain vs buoy circumference (buoyancy and pull resistance) to get the chain up and hold the anchor retrieve after pull ? (realizing of course the chain weight & length is also going to keep the anchor digging better)
 
Your safety factor is lots of scope, more is ALWAYS better. On my small boat I run 3/8 braid for my rode plus 20' of 3/8 chain to hook. Stick to the drawing and you are golden. It's a day anchor situation and not overnight. The nice thing about the rings is that you can add line to your existing setup if you need to explore deeper water. IMO, no rough water fishing is enjoyable so why would you? I was a WCVI commie and a Guide so I understand that Guide Boats fish weather cause they are a business. No point in discussing anchor, buoy or this and that cause everyone has their own fav and theirs is the best. Gets confusing. Best advice is go to one of the respected outfitters mentioned on this site, take someone out in boat with you that's familar with Hali anchoring and PRACTICE in shallow water. Hell, You can even take me if Ya want.
 
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my 20ft boat- hali anchoring set up is a 5kg claw anchor, 100ft 1/4" chain, 600ft of 1/2" polysteel terminated at a 8" hard plastic stopper float and an eye splice. the 6" anchor ring (connected to an A3 float) cant slide past the 8" hard stopper float. I then connect all of this to the boat with a 50ft 3/8" floating line


400 ft of rope should be ok as long as you have a good length of chain too.

as far as floatation/weight, i think there is a chart you can find, but the a3 polyform bouy works great for me (both floatation and drag to pull the anchor)
 
The diagram is right. It seems big and scary buts it's not. And when your fishing the tide change weird things happen. And your situation doesn't always look like the diagram. Go see moose at the harbor chandler he will make you a system for your boat with a quick release. Last year I caught a 24 seaport on my Hali anchor. It was a nightmare. But it's worth doing. You can have some great results
 
thanks for the info barrie, Fixit and sea envy . Great diagram Silent knots, thanks for locating and reposting it here.
 
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