Will Trade Fishing Time for Marine Electrical

TenMile

Well-Known Member
Hey all,

Shot in the dark here -- but wanted to see if I might be able to work out a trade of some fishing time out of Oak Bay marina for someone qualified to do some marine electrical work. I've got a pretty major electrolysis issue going on where I am burning through zincs every 2 months. Pretty convinced the problem is mine but I don't have the right tools or experience to properly diagnose the issue (or to prove it's another boat, or bad shore power).

Anyone on the board willing to trade some time with me diagnosing and correcting the problem? If so, I'm willing to put in equal time hosting you out on the water.
 
What kind of hull do you have and motor?
I got an aluminum boat with a merc outboard. I used to replace power tilt zinc ($24 at the merc dealer) every two months while the two welded bars on the hull were barely getting used. Went to Trotac and was told that I should be using a different zinc thats not as soft as the merc one and still softer than the motor leg. Now all zincs are the same type and I'm keeping an eye on the leg just in case.
I'd pay the boys at Trotac a visit and see what they suggest.
Hope this helps
cheers


JUST FISHEN'
 
quote:Originally posted by TenMile

Hey all,

Shot in the dark here -- but wanted to see if I might be able to work out a trade of some fishing time out of Oak Bay marina for someone qualified to do some marine electrical work. I've got a pretty major electrolysis issue going on where I am burning through zincs every 2 months. Pretty convinced the problem is mine but I don't have the right tools or experience to properly diagnose the issue (or to prove it's another boat, or bad shore power).

Anyone on the board willing to trade some time with me diagnosing and correcting the problem? If so, I'm willing to put in equal time hosting you out on the water.
used to run a charter boat ,wood hull and the sailboat very close us was running a battery charger while is was down south eatingup our zinxs so we unplugged him end of our problem!
 
quote:Originally posted by TenMile

Hey all,

Shot in the dark here -- but wanted to see if I might be able to work out a trade of some fishing time out of Oak Bay marina for someone qualified to do some marine electrical work. I've got a pretty major electrolysis issue going on where I am burning through zincs every 2 months. Pretty convinced the problem is mine but I don't have the right tools or experience to properly diagnose the issue (or to prove it's another boat, or bad shore power).

Anyone on the board willing to trade some time with me diagnosing and correcting the problem? If so, I'm willing to put in equal time hosting you out on the water.
used to run a charter boat ,wood hull and the sailboat very close us was running a battery charger while is was down south eatingup our zinxs so we unplugged him end of our problem!
 
Thanks for the tips. Pretty sure the issue is mine -- moved slips way across the marina earlier in the year and the problem followed me.

Boat is a Fiberglass hull (Striper 2600SC) with a Mercruiser Mag 350 MPI and a Bravo III drive. I'm using the Merc specific zincs. Boat has shore power with an onboard charger and I plug it in to keep things fresh.

There can be about 40 different things to look for -- but unfortunately I don't have the proper electrical test equipment so any changes I make would be a guess. I'd like to be able to test before rip and replace.
 
Thanks for the tips. Pretty sure the issue is mine -- moved slips way across the marina earlier in the year and the problem followed me.

Boat is a Fiberglass hull (Striper 2600SC) with a Mercruiser Mag 350 MPI and a Bravo III drive. I'm using the Merc specific zincs. Boat has shore power with an onboard charger and I plug it in to keep things fresh.

There can be about 40 different things to look for -- but unfortunately I don't have the proper electrical test equipment so any changes I make would be a guess. I'd like to be able to test before rip and replace.
 
quote:Originally posted by TenMile

Thanks for the tips. Pretty sure the issue is mine -- moved slips way across the marina earlier in the year and the problem followed me.

Boat is a Fiberglass hull (Striper 2600SC) with a Mercruiser Mag 350 MPI and a Bravo III drive.</u> I'm using the Merc specific zincs. Boat has shore power with an onboard charger and I plug it in to keep things fresh.

There can be about 40 different things to look for -- but unfortunately I don't have the proper electrical test equipment so any changes I make would be a guess. I'd like to be able to test before rip and replace.


Ah… the great world of Stainless steel! Been there done that! Do not rip and replace anything!

You may or may not be in a "hot" marina... I don't know. The problem of having to change your zincs is more likely caused by the Bravo III outdrive and those great Merc zincs that are saving it. And those zincs are pretty soft! But use them! Especially if your outdrive is under warranty!</u> Or you may end up having to change your outdrive!</u>

Do you have a Zinc Saver installed? If not install one!

The Bravo III outdrive is one of the nicest outdrives I have ever owned, but I will never own another Bravo III, if I plan on leaving it in salt water due to its inherited electrolysis problems. The Bravo III is very susceptible to electrolysis and I believe it is due to all that lovely stainless steel you have hanging down there. BTW Merc increased its corrosion warranty on Bravo III outdrives because of the electrolysis problems. I have had the unfortunate opportunity of using their warranty not only once, but twice! The first thing they checked was to make sure I was using the correct “Merc authorized zincs”!

Here is a quote from Westmarine: “Stainless steel is a special case. Generally, it is a bad idea to use stainless steel underwater, because it can pit. When it pits the "nobility" of the metal changes locally, and you end up with tiny galvanic couples that are made up of different parts of the same piece of metal and the pits grow deeper. One school of thought suggests that if you must use stainless steel underwater (e.g. you need its strength), then you should connect a nearby, immersed zinc to it; this protects the stainless steel from itself, reducing the rate of pitting.”

After getting tired of changing my zincs every two months I called Merc and asked for help.</u> What they told me was to “connect a zinc to the negative post of the battery and let it hang off the swim step while docked”. I rigged one myself that looks very much like the one in the following link. And I did attach it to the negative post and drop it over as instructed by Merc.</u> It stopped my problem of burning through zincs and increased the life of the zincs for months.

Zinc Grouper Anode from Canada Metals. I quess I should tell you to follow the instructions, but I have to admit if following the instruction didn't work I would attach directly to the negative post and drop it off my swim step:

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...=true&storeNum=5000&subdeptNum=4&classNum=593

Your other option is to turn everyting off... and I do mean everything! Don't leave anything connected to the batteries. And don't plug into shore power.</u> If the boat is completely shut down and you have no current moving anywhere it will stop or at least slow the electrolysis.
 
quote:Originally posted by TenMile

Thanks for the tips. Pretty sure the issue is mine -- moved slips way across the marina earlier in the year and the problem followed me.

Boat is a Fiberglass hull (Striper 2600SC) with a Mercruiser Mag 350 MPI and a Bravo III drive.</u> I'm using the Merc specific zincs. Boat has shore power with an onboard charger and I plug it in to keep things fresh.

There can be about 40 different things to look for -- but unfortunately I don't have the proper electrical test equipment so any changes I make would be a guess. I'd like to be able to test before rip and replace.


Ah… the great world of Stainless steel! Been there done that! Do not rip and replace anything!

You may or may not be in a "hot" marina... I don't know. The problem of having to change your zincs is more likely caused by the Bravo III outdrive and those great Merc zincs that are saving it. And those zincs are pretty soft! But use them! Especially if your outdrive is under warranty!</u> Or you may end up having to change your outdrive!</u>

Do you have a Zinc Saver installed? If not install one!

The Bravo III outdrive is one of the nicest outdrives I have ever owned, but I will never own another Bravo III, if I plan on leaving it in salt water due to its inherited electrolysis problems. The Bravo III is very susceptible to electrolysis and I believe it is due to all that lovely stainless steel you have hanging down there. BTW Merc increased its corrosion warranty on Bravo III outdrives because of the electrolysis problems. I have had the unfortunate opportunity of using their warranty not only once, but twice! The first thing they checked was to make sure I was using the correct “Merc authorized zincs”!

Here is a quote from Westmarine: “Stainless steel is a special case. Generally, it is a bad idea to use stainless steel underwater, because it can pit. When it pits the "nobility" of the metal changes locally, and you end up with tiny galvanic couples that are made up of different parts of the same piece of metal and the pits grow deeper. One school of thought suggests that if you must use stainless steel underwater (e.g. you need its strength), then you should connect a nearby, immersed zinc to it; this protects the stainless steel from itself, reducing the rate of pitting.”

After getting tired of changing my zincs every two months I called Merc and asked for help.</u> What they told me was to “connect a zinc to the negative post of the battery and let it hang off the swim step while docked”. I rigged one myself that looks very much like the one in the following link. And I did attach it to the negative post and drop it over as instructed by Merc.</u> It stopped my problem of burning through zincs and increased the life of the zincs for months.

Zinc Grouper Anode from Canada Metals. I quess I should tell you to follow the instructions, but I have to admit if following the instruction didn't work I would attach directly to the negative post and drop it off my swim step:

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...=true&storeNum=5000&subdeptNum=4&classNum=593

Your other option is to turn everyting off... and I do mean everything! Don't leave anything connected to the batteries. And don't plug into shore power.</u> If the boat is completely shut down and you have no current moving anywhere it will stop or at least slow the electrolysis.
 
Hey Ten'er,

Sterndrives all the way! Yee-ha.

If you don't get the problem resolved, let me know (silversaw@telus.net). I know a good Mercruiser mechanic (very reasonable and may even give you some ideas to check out over the phone). He installed my new 4.3/MPI/Alpha set up for about 4/K less than a new Volvo package and I'm happy as hell.

Good Luck!

Terry
 
Hey Ten'er,

Sterndrives all the way! Yee-ha.

If you don't get the problem resolved, let me know (silversaw@telus.net). I know a good Mercruiser mechanic (very reasonable and may even give you some ideas to check out over the phone). He installed my new 4.3/MPI/Alpha set up for about 4/K less than a new Volvo package and I'm happy as hell.

Good Luck!

Terry
 
quote:Originally posted by Little Hawk

Hey Ten'er,

Sterndrives all the way! Yee-ha.

If you don't get the problem resolved, let me know (silversaw@telus.net). I know a good Mercruiser mechanic (very reasonable and may even give you some ideas to check out over the phone). He installed my new 4.3/MPI/Alpha set up for about 4/K less than a new Volvo package and I'm happy as hell.

Good Luck!

Terry

I agree with you Terry... I would buy Merc over Volvo all day long! Especially since the lower unit of a Merc is a Volvo unit! :) Merc bought them a few years back.

I have ran Alpha, Bravo I, and Bravo III. The only problem I have ever had with any was the changing of zincs and the electrolysis on the Bravo III. They all were good units with little problems and I think the Bravo I is the best outdrive on the market! That thing is just downright bullet proof!
 
quote:Originally posted by Little Hawk

Hey Ten'er,

Sterndrives all the way! Yee-ha.

If you don't get the problem resolved, let me know (silversaw@telus.net). I know a good Mercruiser mechanic (very reasonable and may even give you some ideas to check out over the phone). He installed my new 4.3/MPI/Alpha set up for about 4/K less than a new Volvo package and I'm happy as hell.

Good Luck!

Terry

I agree with you Terry... I would buy Merc over Volvo all day long! Especially since the lower unit of a Merc is a Volvo unit! :) Merc bought them a few years back.

I have ran Alpha, Bravo I, and Bravo III. The only problem I have ever had with any was the changing of zincs and the electrolysis on the Bravo III. They all were good units with little problems and I think the Bravo I is the best outdrive on the market! That thing is just downright bullet proof!
 
one thing you can do as well is to go and get a large soft zinc hard wire a SS line to it and then put a alligator clip on the other end which you connect to the NEG side of your battery then hang the zinc overboard this will bring the charge to the zinc and eat away that instead of your boat ones,

Give me a call and I will chat with you about it as west bay before it was redone was really bad it would eat a zinc a month in there with all the extension cords in the water and out of the water.

PS the boys at trotac can make you up one they do it often


Good luck Wolf

Blue Wolf Charters
www.bluewolfcharters.com
 
one thing you can do as well is to go and get a large soft zinc hard wire a SS line to it and then put a alligator clip on the other end which you connect to the NEG side of your battery then hang the zinc overboard this will bring the charge to the zinc and eat away that instead of your boat ones,

Give me a call and I will chat with you about it as west bay before it was redone was really bad it would eat a zinc a month in there with all the extension cords in the water and out of the water.

PS the boys at trotac can make you up one they do it often


Good luck Wolf

Blue Wolf Charters
www.bluewolfcharters.com
 
Thats a damb good idea Wolf!

Take only what you need.
 
Thats a damb good idea Wolf!

Take only what you need.
 
quote:Originally posted by wolf

one thing you can do as well is to go and get a large soft zinc hard wire a SS line to it and then put a alligator clip on the other end which you connect to the NEG side of your battery then hang the zinc overboard this will bring the charge to the zinc and eat away that instead of your boat ones

I did the same thing... but I used a coated copper wire. I finally ended up attaching a large anode to galvanized chain then attached the chain to the "dock". I ran the wire threw the chain and put a quick disconnect inline and then hard wired it to the battery. Made it easy, all I had to do was plug-in the quick disconnect when I tied up to the dock. After I did this my zincs were lasting close to a year! :)
 
quote:Originally posted by wolf

one thing you can do as well is to go and get a large soft zinc hard wire a SS line to it and then put a alligator clip on the other end which you connect to the NEG side of your battery then hang the zinc overboard this will bring the charge to the zinc and eat away that instead of your boat ones

I did the same thing... but I used a coated copper wire. I finally ended up attaching a large anode to galvanized chain then attached the chain to the "dock". I ran the wire threw the chain and put a quick disconnect inline and then hard wired it to the battery. Made it easy, all I had to do was plug-in the quick disconnect when I tied up to the dock. After I did this my zincs were lasting close to a year! :)
 
The last few years i have been using crab trap zincs that i had laying around. I have two hung off the end of my slip with stainless wire to an alligater clip.Snap it on to my negative battery terminal when i tie up and turn the batt switch off. It has Drastically cut my zinc burn in half over the years on my alpha 1. A softer zinc would be even better i suspect, those crab zincs are hard as can be. I also put a fair bit of extra zinc on my stainless trim tabs to achieve the required voltage, more on the kicker side .62 to.65 and i am happy.

www.tailspincharters.com
 
The last few years i have been using crab trap zincs that i had laying around. I have two hung off the end of my slip with stainless wire to an alligater clip.Snap it on to my negative battery terminal when i tie up and turn the batt switch off. It has Drastically cut my zinc burn in half over the years on my alpha 1. A softer zinc would be even better i suspect, those crab zincs are hard as can be. I also put a fair bit of extra zinc on my stainless trim tabs to achieve the required voltage, more on the kicker side .62 to.65 and i am happy.

www.tailspincharters.com
 
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