Any idea what this hull is. It is my new project. Sorry that don’t have better pictures. Wondering about floatation
Thanks for getting back to me. I have lifted the top up about 2 feet and can see both parts. There is no foam ,but maybe someone removed it. The bottom part has had some fibreglass work and I intend to redo the top. Am trying to find a picture of how this particular make would have been foamed. I don’t think it was poured then sandwiched like the Boston whalerAll those little boats should have foam in them. The question is more whether it's waterlogged or if it still works. They are known to get wet over time. That one appears to have son ingress points. Weight and waterline would be two tells.
ThanksIn 1976 whaler went to the smirk style hull on the 17 foot hull, so this is a knock off of an old hull that will splash the chop forward then blow it back into your face more than the newer model.
There will be foam between the deck and the hull. It probably has water in it, but if the boat floats near its normal water line, I wouldn't worry too much. You will want to reseal all the deck attachments and patch the old screw holes.
The console is so far forward that it will really bounce the driver in chop.
I'd get an old tiller motor, 2 seats, a fish finder/gps, and go jigging or flyfishing.
I have two old small whalers that aren't worth much.
Investing a pile of money in this won't pay off in dollars, but will be a nice stable at rest platform to fish from.
I have an 11'4 and a 16' 7. They are both tillers. The foam sandwich gives strength, since there are no stringers. If yours has no foam, what stiffens the hull?Thank you. This is 13.4
Thanks
In 1976 whaler went to the smirk style hull on the 17 foot hull, so this is a knock off of an old hull that will splash the chop forward then blow it back into your face more than the newer model.
There will be foam between the deck and the hull. It probably has water in it, but if the boat floats near its normal water line, I wouldn't worry too much. You will want to reseal all the deck attachments and patch the old screw holes.
The console is so far forward that it will really bounce the driver in chop.
I'd get an old tiller motor, 2 seats, a fish finder/gps, and go jigging or flyfishing.
I have two old small whalers that aren't worth much.
Investing a pile of money in this won't pay off in dollars, but will be a nice stable at rest platform to fish from.
Thanks tubber. Just getting started here so going to be a bit of a journey, but I am looking forward to it. My son just rebuilt a 20.6 double eagle Alaskan cabiin and that inspired me.I have an 11'4 and a 16' 7. They are both tillers. The foam sandwich gives strength, since there are no stringers. If yours has no foam, what stiffens the hull?
Thanks
In 1976 whaler went to the smirk style hull on the 17 foot hull, so this is a knock off of an old hull that will splash the chop forward then blow it back into your face more than the newer model.
There will be foam between the deck and the hull. It probably has water in it, but if the boat floats near its normal water line, I wouldn't worry too much. You will want to reseal all the deck attachments and patch the old screw holes.
The console is so far forward that it will really bounce the driver in chop.
I'd get an old tiller motor, 2 seats, a fish finder/gps, and go jigging or flyfishing.
I have two old small whalers that aren't worth much.
Investing a pile of money in this won't pay off in dollars, but will be a nice stable at rest platform to fish from.
Thanks tubber. Just getting started here soI have an 11'4 and a 16' 7. They are both tillers. The foam sandwich gives strength, since there are no stringers. If yours has no foam, what stiffens the hull?
Thanks gungadinThat will be a very wet boat in any kind of wind, might be suitable for a lake cottage or tender for a sailboat. Or a double Eagle?? Very low freeboard, but still very stable to stand up in. As you already have it split, turn the insert upside down, locate all the holes that have been drilled into it, , clean out the holes with a slightly larger drill size, tape the hole on the side that shows with plastic tape, and sand an area around each hole on the underside and fill with thickened epoxy., tapering it just proud of the hole After it hardens you can remove the tape and it should be filled flush to the deck. Have fun.