water coming out of leg before oil

[montymbad]

Drained the volvo 280 leg on my double eagle today, before any oil came out I had about a bout 1/2 cup to 1 cup of water drain out before any oil came out. The water had no signs of rust, no hint of red. The oil is grey and slick and tastes like normal used rearend fluid. Its been sitting for 8 years, could this just be from sitting? Think maybe seals? but if the seals were shot then the oil should have drained out. Thanks in advance.
Ryan

 

[Barnacle Bill]

Seals are leaking. Leg oil should be changed every 100 hours or so, and for sure when you put it away for the winter. Water in the leg and below 0 temperatures can, and has led to cracked legs. Change the seals and you should be good to go. ..........BB

 

[Barnacle Bill]

Monty,, forgot to add, always check the bottom plug when draining the oil, it is magnetic and will catch any metal bits that is in the oil. Good luck with the leg...........BB

 

[beemer]

tasting rearend fluid ? never a good idea.

 

[Island Fish Lifter]

You should find a way to pressure test it. Ive used a bicycle pump before, spray soapy water around the prop seals and also the shift shaft(behind the cover on upper unit). These would be the best case scenereo because are easiest to change. If both are good, pull leg and completely reseal. That water came from somewhere and NOT condensation. Good luck.

Fill the dam tub!

 

[montymbad]

Reason I was wondering condensation is because its been sitting for 8 years in weather ranging from 30 to -45. THe plug had no metal shavings on it. So thats a good sign. I priced out a full reseal kit and its 130 landed at my door. Might not be a bad idea just to reseal the whole thing. or at least have the extra parts. IFL how did you pressure test it? just put a fitting on the filler hole and hook up a compressor and put the regulator really low? thx

Ryan

 

[wolf]

Its not condensation as its supposed to be a sealed unit thats why there are seals in there to prevent ANY water getting in (gear oil good water bad)

With that amout of water in it you will have more damage than seals rust and pitting being the most prevailant, To be on the safe side take it in and get it torn down and be prepeared for major $$$$$ cause if you need bearings and gears it will be pricy.

But better than just repacing the seals and then the leg completlly going then you have to replace EVERYTHING which is going to cost you even more. if its been sitting that long id get it torn down anyway just to be on the safe side. (preventive matenance)

GOOD LUCK WOLF

Blue Wolf Charters
www.bluewolfcharters.com

 

[Island Fish Lifter]

Is it a dp? What model? These legs are really quite easy to deal with, just make sure your shims go back in the original position. Wolf is right about the possibility of having some bad bearings as a result, if anything theyll be the prop shaft bearings and should at least be checked. However, gear oil is a really good protectant and the bearings may be ok as a result. youll have to be creative to come up with a pressure tester, and I would not exceed 10 psi. 5 should suffice. if youre in the CR area, I can probably guide you through it, impossible to do it over the net though.

Fill the dam tub!

 

[montymbad]

looking through my seloc book, its a pretty complicated unit, but like you said the shims have to go back to where they came from. but definetly looks like its coming apart. Its not a duo prop so there are no where near as many "special" tools required. Im in the center of the province but thanks for the offer. Im hoping that because all of the water was in the lower leg hopefully any damage is only there. Like I said all the water came out first. thanks.

Ryan

 

[montymbad]

oops...I forgot to say its a 280 B.

 

[Island Fish Lifter]

one other check you should make is for water in your ujoint bellows. If there is, replace bellows. Ive seen water get sucked in from the input seals before. If there is water in there, I would advise replacing ujoints, may as well replace input seals at the same time. Your upper unit will come off without removing leg.. ive done it many times. The only technical assembly you will have to make it to install a new crush sleeve and bring the bearing preload to proper tolerances. Difficult to do without a press. The parts you need for this is 1- upper seal kit, 2- ujoints, 1- crush sleeve and bolt, 1- bellows. Add a little bit of gear oil inside the new bellows before doing up the hose clamp.

Fill the dam tub!

 

[cheech]

I swapped bottom ends. I found 'milky' oil on a later inspection.
Turned out that the drain plug came loose. That has now been Locktite-ed into place. Water was getting sucked in when running.
Volvos are pretty good as far as not letting water intrude. I would say to check all fasteners and your bellows especially.
The worst would be your prop shaft seal is fcukd. But its a Volvo so its not like a Merc!

 

[Island Fish Lifter]

quote:Originally posted by cheech


The worst would be your prop shaft seal is fcukd. But its a Volvo so its not like a Merc!

Worst? how do you figure that? Prop seals are the easiest to deal with on a volvo.

Fill the dam tub!

 

[scott craven]

I've been getting milky gear oil on and off for 4 years.
Marine rated gear oil holds water in suspension.
Change it every 150 hours, still going strong.

 

[Dave S]

I've been getting milky gear oil on and off for 4 years.
Marine rated gear oil holds water in suspension.
Change it every 150 hours, still going strong.

I also have had a few times when my gear oil has been milky. I think it was coming in through the drain washer. I now change that each time i do the oil and it has stopped. Which gear oil do you use Scott? I use the Yamaha leg oil but its pricey. If you know of a good cheaper option, I'd love to hear it.

 

[scott craven]

I've been using "Nautilus", it's just under 10 bucks a litre
gives me about 2 changes