Trailer brake repair

wagonmaster

wagonmaster

Member
Thought I'd post a short piece to share my experience with trailer brakes. Bought a 18 Campion 542 with a Road Runner trailer in 2004. Always rinsed the wheels thoroughly and kept in my garage since new. In 2017, I started having problems with the brakes (drum) getting stuck so that the tire would not rotate. Often fixed it by dragging the trailer forward a couple of feet and then reversing and hitting the brakes. I decided to have things attended to on three different occasions (2017-2020) with both SG and Alpine replacing parts and probably spent close to $2000. Seized brake shoes continued to be a problem, so I recently went to Island Spring in Ladysmith (recommended by a member here) and had disc brakes installed as well as new leaf springs...another $2500 poorer, but hopefully clear sailing from now on. Anyway, if anyone out there experiences the same issues, you might consider ditching the drum brakes for discs at the outset. Could be cheaper in the long run. Considered a new trailer, but $6500 was considerably more than the new brake installation.
1650647659912.jpeg
 
I have heard that disc brakes on boat trailers have corrosion issues (not as bad as drum brakes of course). Maintenance is the key factor with anything that goes into corrosive salt water. I would like to find some form of trailer brakes that are 100% stainless steel if such a thing exists?
 
Whole in the Water said:
I have heard that disc brakes on boat trailers have corrosion issues (not as bad as drum brakes of course). Maintenance is the key factor with anything that goes into corrosive salt water. I would like to find some form of trailer brakes that are 100% stainless steel if such a thing exists?
Click to expand...
They’re out there

KODIAK 10" Trailer Disc Brake Assy, Stainless Steel, DAC (Complete 1 Axle Kit) with stainless steel, Brake Kits - Amazon Canada

KODIAK 10" Trailer Disc Brake Assy, Stainless Steel, DAC (Complete 1 Axle Kit) with stainless steel in Brake Kits.
www.amazon.ca

 
Whole in the Water said:
I have heard that disc brakes on boat trailers have corrosion issues (not as bad as drum brakes of course). Maintenance is the key factor with anything that goes into corrosive salt water. I would like to find some form of trailer brakes that are 100% stainless steel if such
Click to expand...

Whole in the Water said:
I have heard that disc brakes on boat trailers have corrosion issues (not as bad as drum brakes of course). Maintenance is the key factor with anything that goes into corrosive salt water. I would like to find some form of trailer brakes that are 100% stainless steel if such a thing exists?
Click to expand...

If you paint your calipers with zinc paint and wash them every time you dunk them in the ocean no rust should form
 
New trailer prices have gone nuts like everything else,I was quoted $16K for a 7000 Lb. Tuff approx..You can fix a lot of brakes for those prices.
 
Do annual trailer axle maintenance whether you think you need to or not. A few hours cleaning and repacking bearings, new seals, checking and adjusting brakes on your schedule instead of being " that guy" on the side of the highway with his wheel fallen off or seized is a lot simpler.

And no....having bearing buddies dosen't mean when you pump in a few squirts of fresh grease your bearings are magically repacked.

Not making it to the ramp or your destination kinda ruins the day.
 
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I bought a new trailer with drum brakes in 2016 and after 3 years of salt water use the brakes were fubar. Even after hosing them off after ever use.

I call Road Runner and asked them what was up. They said to expect 3 years out of drum brakes and 5 years out of disc brakes if used in salt water.
 
@wagonmaster What model roadrunner? I called Roadrunner a while back because I want to do the same as you, and they told me my 2012 model 4000 for my 18' boat could not be converted because the axles aren't wide enough (strange). I'm kind of chicken to have 2500$ worth of parts delivered if they wont work. Or has anyone else converted a model 4000?
 
My trailers certainly aren’t in the salt as much as some but still they require regular maintenance.

Every winter on top of servicing bearings and seals when I pull them apart I use grease on all moving parts and connections on top of giving them a squirt of mystery oil. Then the whole assembly like I mean all of it other than the pads and inside of the drums where the pads meet the drum gets a light coating of a synthetic based chain oil. This comes in aerosol cans. Same stuff my boys used on their dirt bike chains that’s where I got the idea a few years ago. Do this and I guarantee you quite a few years of trouble free service.

Take care of your equipment boys and it will take care of you.
 
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Cookie's Cutter said:
I bought a new trailer with drum brakes in 2016 and after 3 years of salt water use the brakes were fubar. Even after hosing them off after ever use.

I call Road Runner and asked them what was up. They said to expect 3 years out of drum brakes and 5 years out of disc brakes if used in salt water.
Click to expand...
When it comes to corrosion there are lots of variables involved with respect to how long brake components last, especially if used in salt water.

Quality of parts, how many dunks in the salt water per year, quality and frequency of fresh water flushing, yearly preventive maintenance etc etc.

Someone who is in and out of the water 20-30 times a year compared to someone who has 90-100 times or more a year will see different results.
Someone who does yearly maintenance will see better results than someone who does nothing.

Brake pad wear also has many different variables like distance travelled, amount of braking, weight of load being towed etc etc.

On my 8 year old single axle EZ loader trailer I'm on my 3rd set of pads, 2nd set of rotors and calibers, bearings.
 
daddystoy said:
Do annual trailer axle maintenance whether you think you need to or not. A few hours cleaning and repacking bearings, new seals, checking and adjusting brakes on your schedule instead of being " that guy" on the side of the highway with his wheel fallen off or seized is a lot simpler.

And no....having bearing buddies dosen't mean when you pump in a few squirts of fresh grease your bearings are magically repacked.

Not making it to the ramp or your destination kinda ruins the day.
Click to expand...
There's lots of drama around "that guy" but bearings do not "magically" fail. Nor do brakes. Wheel assemblies heat as you travel. They contract quickly when you hit the water. That could suck water inside except for your Buddies. They are too easy to check for the need of grease. Packing bearings needs to be done with new bearings, of course (Timkin or SKF). But not annually, for heaven's sake. Effective seals keep dirt out so what are you cleaning? And if your brakes are doing their job, leave them be. It's easy to check. Lift one side of the empty trailer and feel for bearing wear by twisting the wheel side to side. Then spin it and listen for bearing rumble. If you hear nothing and feel nothing, leave it be. Also listen for the light drag of working brake shoes. Adjust if necessary. If disks, you can easily decide if the calipers are working. Now do the other side. Drop the trailer down, hook up and do your light and brake check. Go. My trailer has 6 wheels. The OCD approach is for guys that are tired of fishing.

Walleyes suggested spraying the components on the backing plates, except for the shoes. I fully agree, only I am using Fluid Film instead. No brake issues after 4 years since new. I have never had a bearing failure, ever.
 
As to the question by markfarley above...the trailer is a model 2500. All in good shape otherwise, plus I had a guy weld a checker plate ramp on one side so I can safely walk on it while hooking up the boat when pulling out of the water.
 
I am installing a set of Kodiak Brakes on a friends trailer next month. He opted for https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Kodiak/K2HR35DS.html. The caliper is Stainless, but not the Hub. Note that it does not come with bearings or seals https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Bearings-Races-Seals-Caps/etrailer/RG06-050.html. He has discs now and washes them off after each trip when he gets home (probably not enough) The problem was not rust but rather salt build up on the caliper pins, which would cause them to no longer slide. Hopefully the Kodiak ones will be better as the slides are "protected" by a rubber insert, but do require a special grease
 
Drum shoes stick when stored. It happens. Option one is violence. Just smash forwards and back till something lets go which will often destroy the shoes and create costs and work.
Option 2 is pull each wheel and tap the drum all around on the outside of the friction surface with a hammer (I usually use lead) while trying to move the drum by hand. They will let go often with the first bang . Wheel on and good to go.
 
gunnerlove said:
Drum shoes stick when stored. It happens. Option one is violence. Just smash forwards and back till something lets go which will often destroy the shoes and create costs and work.
Option 2 is pull each wheel and tap the drum all around on the outside of the friction surface with a hammer (I usually use lead) while trying to move the drum by hand. They will let go often with the first bang . Wheel on and good to go.
Click to expand...
Just call me Bam Bam!
Bring on the violence!!
 
Replace drums with stainless calipers, dacromet rotors, and compatible actuator (recommend the Kodiaks). Rinse with fresh after dipping in salt. Grease pins. Bonus if you figure out how to maintain and replace parts yourself. If you get a shop to do it, make sure they install stainless calipers!
 
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