Trailer Brake Problems

Whole in the Water

Well-Known Member
Well I just learned again about the defintion of the word BOAT (Bring Out Another Thousand) as I just got my spring tune up and brakes completely re-done for the 3rd time in 8 years. Is this a normal, average experience?

I have a single axle trailer with hydraulic drum brakes that are part galvinized/stainless steel and dip my trailer in the salt on average 8-12 times a year. I always flush my brakes as soon as I can, where possible.

I heard that stainless steel brakes still corrode. I have heard that disk brakes are more problematic and are more expensive to maintain. I'm told that stainless disk brakes are much more expensive and have heat dissapation problems. I've read about aluminum/ bronze alloy disk brakes, but they are very expensive and hard to find around here.

So my question is there a braking system that is more durable and requires less maintenance that doesn't require complete replacement every 3 years of moderate use that doesn't cost thousands to install?
 
How heavy is the boat ?
if the boat is light enough you may not need brakes as long as the tow rig is greater in weight ?
 
Sounds like my old boat trailer- What I have been doing is at the end of the season get the brakes serviced -cost me about $100 bucks and she's ready to go at the begining of the season.
Yes boats are another 1000 -was just going ove rthe list of things this morning that I have to do -ouch :)
 
A flush system really helps as well if you already dont have one after each dip in salt hook it up to fresh water and flush the shiat out of it and the outer and inner part of the rims/ hub area spray every thing down. salt water bad fresh water is your friend, i know of one buddy who goes and dips his boat and truck in at a lake all the time after being near the chuck.
Good luck Wolf .
 
My boat is 20 ft. welded aluminum and weighs 3500 lbs. empty, 4500+ lbs. with engines, gear and fuel, so I think I have to have brakes on it by law. I have a wash down system on the trailer and use it as much as possible.

I am just wondering what kind of brakes other guys have and if there is a better (cheaper maintenance) type of brakes to use than what I have.
 
My boat is 20 ft. welded aluminum and weighs 3500 lbs. empty, 4500+ lbs. with engines, gear and fuel, so I think I have to have brakes on it by law. I have a wash down system on the trailer and use it as much as possible.

Yep, that you do


  • Gross trailer weight of 1,400 kg (3,080 Ibs) or less - Brakes are required if the trailer and its load weigh more than 50% of the licensed weight of the vehicle towing it.
  • Gross trailer weight of 1,401 kg (3,081 Ibs) to 2,800 kg (6,160 Ibs) - Brakes are required, including a breakaway brake.
  • Gross trailer weight of more than 2,800 kg (6,160 Ibs) - Brakes are required, and the trailer brakes must be capable of being applied by the driver independently of the towing vehicle's brakes. A surge brake does NOT meet this requirement. A breakaway brake is also required. Brakes are required on all axles.
 
Your boat and mine weight about the same. I'm a foot plus longer. I run a tandem axle as that's what the manufacturer suggested. I service the brakes at the end of the season. I've been running the trailer now three seasons coming up to four. Mine are still fine. I don't have the fresh water flushing system, which is a really good idea, but, I hose down the trailer and specifically the wheels, back of the brake drums every time I take it out. I"m sure my solution isn't perfect, but, it seems to make a difference. I wonder if spreading your braking load over a tandem trailer would ease the stress on a single axles brakes? Also, I've looked at Kodiak stainless disks and all the other options (planning for the future). I've heard nothing is bullet proof. The only change I plan to make in the future to go to electric over hydraulic and away from surge which I find a nuisance........
 
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All the things that are mentioned above are necessary maintenance, however nobody has mentioned fresh brake fluid at the end of each season. I do my brakes and bearings at the end of the season-plus flush the lines with new fluid-seems to help!!!
 
Only way to make trailer repairs a little less expensive is to do the repair yourself. I have a commercial trailer in my shop at them moment getting a electric over hydraulic brake actuator and brakes. NOT CHEAP! Stainless brakes do get rust on them but they are easy to flush after a dip in the salt chuck. The trailer I am working on at work has the fresh water flush system and it is still corroded to ****. Much worse than last year when I had it apart.

If anyone needs trailer work in the CR area I can hook you up with a guy that does it at home. Much cheaper for the labor at the end of the day.
 
I carry a couple of hoses in my truck and flush my trailer brakes EVERY TIME I back it into the water, even when launching (at Brechin and Ukee anyway). I have another flush set-up for other ramps w/o a spigot.
I also have installed (new last year) a new actuator and 'aluminized' marine backing plates. Not cheap but they are working fine this season. Salt water will win eventually though...
 
Disc brakes are the way to go. i have an 04 Shorlander that still has the original parts and brakes still perform as new. All I have done in 6 seasons is repack the bearings and clean and grease the slides once in all that time. I have 2 converted pressure water fire extinguishers that I use to rinse off the brakes. (when there is no fresh water available) I blow one off after launching and the other after reloading. I'll never go back to drum brakes, ever.
 
You guys got me thinking now of upgrading to disc brakes, any recommendations in the victoria area for supply and/or installation.
Thanks
 
x2 on the disk brakes. I won't go back to drums again. In my household we refer to every thousand spent on the boat as a "boating unit". It doesn't feel quite as bad when we talk about spending "another boating unit or two" for a repair or upgraded something.
 
I have surge disc brakes on my 'Mercan Rogue trailer. Just had them serviced and the price was reasonable. I knew that one brake was dragging so I asked the mechanic to see what was needed to fix it. Well-- the heat had fried the pads. (Bearing was fine after a re-pack). One pad came out in pieces. No big deal-- just put new pads on and clean and grease everything...Right????? Then the fun started, since it was an American trailer, no one knew where to get pads in BC. The standard EasyLoader type would not work. Finally I phoned Three Rivers Marine in Wa as they are a dealer for the Rogue trailer. The service guy listened to my problem , chuckled and told me where to find them... Any large auto parts store. The pads are from a 1992 Kia !!!!

Live and learn!
 
My hands on

I modified my dual axle drum system to a complete stainless system , 4 wheel disk , my trailer slows my truck down hills , LOVE it , does not overheat , payed a few bucks , money well spent ,
longevity ? only 2 years in now , service them at the END of the season , still look like new ,

i rinse them thouroughly every launch , 20 + times a year.

I have no affiliation with the Company , talk to Loui down at Burnaby Hitch , for ya mainlanders , He's the nicest honest shop , really knows his stuff ,
excellent prices...all my friends and affiliates use him , all praise his work , also Specialises in Linex - Spray on box-liner...

Burnaby Hitch
2315 Douglas RD
Burnaby BC
www.burnabyhitch.ca
604-444-3373






gd lk

FD
 
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