So I have moved from the Fraser to the Chuck...I tie my flashers as per the "general"diagrams found in many places..but my success is very minimal..I dont think I am getting the right action on the flasher (360 deg. loops...right?) 1)does leader length make that much diff? I was using pink hoochie on 48"leader -Too long? 2) Swivels and snaps...I tend to tie for convienience..snap swivel on main line to swivel on flasher then from lower flasher swivel to a snap swivel on the leader - is this too many swivels and does this affect the action of the flasher? - I would like a PRECISE detail from type of knot thru the flasher to the hoochie - not just a general diagram found anywhere...this kind of detail always seems to be missing...
tackle tie details for flashers
- Thread starter tangler
- Start date
Northof49
Member
As Lipripper says you want your squirt closer to the flasher for sox, typically in the length he suggested.
I'm led to believe if your flasher is too close to the downrigger wire you won't get the full rotation either. We have this debate on our boat all the time. The kid tends to like 10-12 feet back while I like about 15-17 ft. back.
I'm led to believe if your flasher is too close to the downrigger wire you won't get the full rotation either. We have this debate on our boat all the time. The kid tends to like 10-12 feet back while I like about 15-17 ft. back.
I agree it should not matter re length of leader but I will try 30 ". it is frustrating when all around you seem to be catching using the same stuff you are and yet, no fish??...I shamelessly spied on my fellow anglers whenever possible so i know we had the same flashers, hoochies, various leader lengths cited etc...so I can only think my tackle is not operating the way it should. Hence please refer to my original post...so please explain the knots, swivels etc I should have - with detail please - so I can figure this out...Thanks for the input !!
also..re the snap on the flasher you referred to ...My flashers only have swivels either end...I add the snap swivel if I need one and this is not because I have any knowledge about it...its just easier to take apart and put together..I am concerned though that all these swivels may be causing the thing to not rotate properly...is that possible? I have tried both tying a loop through the swivel eye on the flasher oe attaching a snap to the main line and snapping it to the flasher swivel...right or wrong?? thats what I am trying to find out...
A
AlberniPlugger
Guest
Regarding your question with the swivel.
I don't think you can have to many swivels, today whaen I was out I had my rod with a bead swivel-clip - swivel - flasher - swivel -clip- swivel - leader line- swivel - lure. I had a total of 5 swivels, one was in the leader line between the flasher and the lure. (totally unconventional, yes)
My flasher was making it's full 360 everytime I checked it. Someone else can correct me but I don't think swivels will have any effect on the rotation.
I don't think you can have to many swivels, today whaen I was out I had my rod with a bead swivel-clip - swivel - flasher - swivel -clip- swivel - leader line- swivel - lure. I had a total of 5 swivels, one was in the leader line between the flasher and the lure. (totally unconventional, yes)
My flasher was making it's full 360 everytime I checked it. Someone else can correct me but I don't think swivels will have any effect on the rotation.
B
Betty Boop
Guest
For Sox I have been running 18" down to 14" 50 lb florocarbon leader. One swivel at flasher end and palomar knot at the squirt end. Running dummie flasher the rotating type 3 in tandom directly above the weight, then a regular flasher just high enough that it dosent get tangled up with the release clip when you retreive the weight. I am running this set up only about five feet behind the dummie flasher so about 6'to 8' from downrigger line. I have been doing very well on the Soxs.
50 lb leader dosent cut up your hands when you grab the leader to swing em up into the box without using the net.
50 lb leader dosent cut up your hands when you grab the leader to swing em up into the box without using the net.
danthewire
Active Member
Start at rod end.
Pink bead large so you don't jamb the swivel into your rod eye.
BIG bead swivel.
BIG Quick change , whatever your fancy.
CHECK the swivel on your flasher hold it between your index finger and thumb, give the flasher a gentle spin, should spin freely for quite awhile.
Most of the Hot Spot imatations grind and lock up with their cheap swivels.
Down to the flasher tail end, another BIG good quality swivel and a quick change of your choice.Index finger and thumb treatment again.
At the hootchie I rig them with a swivel at the top end that attaches to the flasher and one jambed into the hootchie head.
That one then attaches to a single 6/0 hook that just comes to the end of the squirt.
Leader is minimum of 40 lb test.
Leader length "can be" critcal on some days.
The guys above are giving you good advice.
Speed, leader length,depth, and getting on the fish are variables. Thats what seperates the producers from the others.
Don't be afraid to experiment we have been as short as 14 inches on some days and as long as 48 inches on others.
If you aern't catchin change it up keep track a pattern will emerge,Good Luck.
Dan
Pink bead large so you don't jamb the swivel into your rod eye.
BIG bead swivel.
BIG Quick change , whatever your fancy.
CHECK the swivel on your flasher hold it between your index finger and thumb, give the flasher a gentle spin, should spin freely for quite awhile.
Most of the Hot Spot imatations grind and lock up with their cheap swivels.
Down to the flasher tail end, another BIG good quality swivel and a quick change of your choice.Index finger and thumb treatment again.
At the hootchie I rig them with a swivel at the top end that attaches to the flasher and one jambed into the hootchie head.
That one then attaches to a single 6/0 hook that just comes to the end of the squirt.
Leader is minimum of 40 lb test.
Leader length "can be" critcal on some days.
The guys above are giving you good advice.
Speed, leader length,depth, and getting on the fish are variables. Thats what seperates the producers from the others.
Don't be afraid to experiment we have been as short as 14 inches on some days and as long as 48 inches on others.
If you aern't catchin change it up keep track a pattern will emerge,Good Luck.
Dan
Dogbreath
Well-Known Member
I like these most of all-easiest use never let you down-Duolock Snaps
Then buy some real Ball Bearing swivels
I tie double overhand loops in all my leaders-easy to tie knots exact</u> lengths</u> that way-and use the Duolock on the flasher.
40-50 quality leader material like Ande or Maxima.
As shakey blurry pic of a typical Hootchie/Flasher rig
There's some good advise above but in general too much terminal gear slows things down.
casper5280
Crew Member
Exactly what Danthewire said. All my gear is is set up this way, makes changing gear way easier and faster. All hoochies are 50# test 2 to 4 flasher lengths.
eriks
Active Member
Been lurking here for some time now, and have to get my first post out of the way, so here goes.
Everything that has been said here is great info. 28" leaders with small pink squirts (try cutting off lots of the "legs" from the squirts - I only leave four or five on), rotating dummy flasher at the ball, release clip 6' above, only 8' from downrigger wire to start of flasher, drop your rig to 50' and appropriate speed thru the water.
Last year I did a charter on Bonchovy to improve my skills, and Jason was fantastic. One great piece of advice he gave me was not to watch my boat/GPS speed, but rather to judge my thru-the-water speed by looking at the angle of the downrigger cable. I have a 15# ball, and try keep the angle to a little less than 45 degrees.
If you see someone on a fish, shamelessly follow in their direction. If you are going the wrong way across the school, they wont bite.
Everything that has been said here is great info. 28" leaders with small pink squirts (try cutting off lots of the "legs" from the squirts - I only leave four or five on), rotating dummy flasher at the ball, release clip 6' above, only 8' from downrigger wire to start of flasher, drop your rig to 50' and appropriate speed thru the water.
Last year I did a charter on Bonchovy to improve my skills, and Jason was fantastic. One great piece of advice he gave me was not to watch my boat/GPS speed, but rather to judge my thru-the-water speed by looking at the angle of the downrigger cable. I have a 15# ball, and try keep the angle to a little less than 45 degrees.
If you see someone on a fish, shamelessly follow in their direction. If you are going the wrong way across the school, they wont bite.
WOW! thanks for all the responses - if I cant do this now then I dont know what...I think most of my questions were answered. I am hoping to have at least one more sox day this year and cant wait to try some of these suggestions if there are any fish still out there...Sockey are like that though in the river or in the salt. exciting, frustrating, satisfying enough to always bring you back next year...I hope we can always go out for these amazing fish!
Seafever
Well-Known Member
I like to run the main line to a good bead-chain and then connect that to the front of the flasher with a sturdy clip akin to the DuoLock as pictured above.
I cut anything off the bottom of the flasher except the ring.
Then I put a clip that is similar to the Duolock there.
When I tie a hoochy or spoon I put a barrel swivel on the leader at front.
I lay it all out and measure from the back edge of the flasher to the nose of the hoochy for leader length.
If I want a 36" leader, by the time I factor in the clips and barrel swivel on the leader and flasher, the actual leader length may be closer to 34".
I pre-tie all my hoochies and spoons etc. this way....then all I have to do is clip them on and they are free to rotate (avoiding line twist) at will behind the flasher.
For me the leader is always measured from the back edge of the flasher to the nose of the lure and that includes all clips and hardware between.
GENERALLY speaking:- Sockeye:- 24 to 27" leader ( trolled a bit slower than for Chinook most times), Chinooks:- 34 to 42" ( I get most success at 35 to 38"....about 2 to 2.3 mph). Coho:- same as Chinooks but go faster. Winter Chinook:- sometimes up to 45"
Many factors affect leader length:- boat speed,current direction, "drop-back"(distance from down rigger line to flasher.....I like to go at least 15 feet back), and brand of flasher.
Spoons for sockeye:- any where from 27" to 42" behind flasher.
Chinook spoons:- 52" to 72" leader (30lb test)behind flasher.
Bait/Teaser behind flasher:- anywhere from 5 feet to 9 feet, depending on area and time of year.
These are just general indications:- "Fishing Rules" are broken everyday, everywhere.
I like to use 30lb. for Chinook spoons, 25lb. for sockeye spoons and hoochies, 40lb. test for Chinook hoochies, 50 and 60lb. test for flies like Ace-Hi and Flash-fly etc.
[8D]
I cut anything off the bottom of the flasher except the ring.
Then I put a clip that is similar to the Duolock there.
When I tie a hoochy or spoon I put a barrel swivel on the leader at front.
I lay it all out and measure from the back edge of the flasher to the nose of the hoochy for leader length.
If I want a 36" leader, by the time I factor in the clips and barrel swivel on the leader and flasher, the actual leader length may be closer to 34".
I pre-tie all my hoochies and spoons etc. this way....then all I have to do is clip them on and they are free to rotate (avoiding line twist) at will behind the flasher.
For me the leader is always measured from the back edge of the flasher to the nose of the lure and that includes all clips and hardware between.
GENERALLY speaking:- Sockeye:- 24 to 27" leader ( trolled a bit slower than for Chinook most times), Chinooks:- 34 to 42" ( I get most success at 35 to 38"....about 2 to 2.3 mph). Coho:- same as Chinooks but go faster. Winter Chinook:- sometimes up to 45"
Many factors affect leader length:- boat speed,current direction, "drop-back"(distance from down rigger line to flasher.....I like to go at least 15 feet back), and brand of flasher.
Spoons for sockeye:- any where from 27" to 42" behind flasher.
Chinook spoons:- 52" to 72" leader (30lb test)behind flasher.
Bait/Teaser behind flasher:- anywhere from 5 feet to 9 feet, depending on area and time of year.
These are just general indications:- "Fishing Rules" are broken everyday, everywhere.
I like to use 30lb. for Chinook spoons, 25lb. for sockeye spoons and hoochies, 40lb. test for Chinook hoochies, 50 and 60lb. test for flies like Ace-Hi and Flash-fly etc.
[8D]
cohochinook
Well-Known Member
Biggest thing for socks is lots of dummies. You need to draw them in!
Peahead
Well-Known Member
quote:Originally posted by Dogbreath
I like these most of all-easiest use never let you down-Duolock Snaps
Then buy some real Ball Bearing swivels
I tie double overhand loops in all my leaders-easy to tie knots exact</u> lengths</u> that way-and use the Duolock on the flasher.
40-50 quality leader material like Ande or Maxima.
As shakey blurry pic of a typical Hootchie/Flasher rig
There's some good advise above but in general too much terminal gear slows things down.
All great info dogbreath .....my 2 cents however I personally dislike Duolock and I get rid of them imediately due to problems with snag. That piece of hooked stainless that sticks out mid clip can get snagged on rigger cable and/or your landing net when netting a fish. I give Jim (Sushihunter) credit for telling me this a long time ago. I use # 5 quick release snaps after I have removed the duolock. Duolocks are often included with consumer flashers as well as cheaper barrel swivels. I prefer commercial grade flashers( Nikka) with ball bearing swivel front and rear ...then attach the quick release to the swvel ring. See #5 release clip in the photo below:
Lipripper
Active Member
X2 on that clip peahead..
And lets back up on this one......All 4 posts of this new guys status are on this thread and we spilled out that!!!!!!!![V]
The search button in the upper right is a good tool
Thats why this is a great forum... Tangler... do some readin and you'll have to change your name...eriks(good advise 'bout the direction ), you too.
Welcome to the board
And lets back up on this one......All 4 posts of this new guys status are on this thread and we spilled out that!!!!!!!![V]
The search button in the upper right is a good tool
Thats why this is a great forum... Tangler... do some readin and you'll have to change your name
...eriks(good advise 'bout the direction ), you too. Welcome to the board
Similar threads
