Seasport 22 inboard to out board

My Lifetimer came with epoxy and bottom paint on it, and it took quite a bit of effort to remove. I took it to a blasting shop, and still had to sand a bunch off at home with the angle grinder. Stuff was probably 20-30 years old too. Probably should have left it as the hull metal underneath turned out to be in great shape.
 
profisher said:
The pod I have has had the powder coat re-done once… but the boat is 32 years old next year. We sand blasted it, went through the proper dipping procedures, cleaned it and off gassed it prior to applying material. They put it in the oven bare to off gas it at 400 deg.. with a batch of other stuff,….,then it went in again with powder applied.
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I wouldnt call yours a pod its a outboard bracket extension maybe 24 to 26 inchs wide.
 
profisher said:
The pod I have has had the powder coat re-done once… but the boat is 32 years old next year. We sand blasted it, went through the proper dipping procedures, cleaned it and off gassed it prior to applying material. They put it in the oven bare to off gas it at 400 deg.. with a batch of other stuff,….,then it went in again with powder applied.
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Yep thank u Rollie exactly.
 
wolf said:
I wouldnt call yours a pod its a outboard bracket extension maybe 24 to 26 inchs wide.
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I think a bracket is open with no floatation...a pod no matter how big is enclosed and adds buoyancy.
 
Buckethead905 said:
Any feedback out there yet on the longevity and reliability of the electric ones? I’ve got it in my head that hydraulic is better but when you really break down the systems the hydraulic setup is much more complex in every aspect which would likely result in costlier repairs if something should happen which seems more likely given the components.
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I have the Bennett Bolt system with the Autotrim controller installed on my boat. The system adjusts automatically to the users calibrated settings. I set it when I leave Reed Point and rarely make adjustments over the course of the 2 hour run
 
I put on 6 x interprotect epoxy layers, then Alexseal above waterline, then EVA foam... below waterline got a couple coats bottom paint over epoxy layers. Waffled on route to go, but my experience w/powdercoat is similar to others.... only a matter of time til corrosion sets in. I can't comment on how it holds up.... soon!
 

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Remember the engine height will need to go up 1.5 ish inches for every ft of setback with that rake.

It's often overlooked. I've got a defiance 21 in my shop right now that they **** the bed on that big time. Factory. Beautiful boat non the less. They could have maximized flotation and performance by Designing the pod around engine height however they did not.
 
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ship happens said:
Remember the engine height will need to go up 1.5 ish inches for every ft of setback with that rake.

It's often overlooked. I've got a defiance 21 in my shop right now that they **** the bed on that big time. Factory. Beautiful boat non the less. They could have maximized flotation and performance by Designing the pod around engine height however they did not.
Click to expand...

All accounted for designed for 25” shaft 1.25” lift for every foot back. At outside of cavitation plate. I will most likely install motors on second whole as engine always need to higher than one expects.
 
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Not knowing anything about pod design I'm curious why they don't come off the bottom of the hull and most seem to taper up after the transom
 
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