Rod guides.... Metal vs ceramic etc

hambone

Well-Known Member
In most tackle stores I think you see mainly ceramic guides on mooching/downrigger rods. Is this because they are better than metal? Easier to fix? Cheaper? I've only really used production rods when downrigger fishing and I only know the basics of rod construction and components.

Both are still produced so I'm assuming there are pros and cons for both. I remember reading that metal guides can be hard on braid/super lines, or the opposite can happen, the line can be hard on the guides.

The thread about the best mooching rod got me thinking about rod construcion a little. im wondering if you guys have a preference or is it not even a big deal? BTW I'm switching to braid on my mooching reels for next season.
 
Depending on usuage... personal like the cermic..lighter and will handle just about anything you use or throw thru them.... because they are lighter, the rod is better balanced...a solid eye will stands up to the day to day rigger of the lodge guide life that the rod is subjected too.... over all less breakage more durabilty.... :)
 
I was wondering about this myself yesterday. I was thinking of picking up a cheaper boxing day hali setup for next year. It seems alot of 'hali' rods are only rated for 20-30lb line. Which I found odd. Then figured id be putting braid on there anyway (?). But then they all had metal powder coated eyes. I thought ceramic for braid would be better? Just have to watch out for cracks or chips.
 
thats what I figured. I am a trotac fan but go to island outfitters for there boxing day sale. everytime Ive been there im usually met with a arrogant dick who seems like they want to be anywhere but there and im interrupting there chat time. There a couple nice guys and girls but im glad I didnt buy there set up and there advise was also **** apparently. Not the first time either. Thanks
 
braid will cut through the metal guides until there is a sharp enough edge to cut your line.

That has not been my experience in over 20 years of using Spectra fiber lines-in fact Spectra braid is so slick it hasn't left a mark on the guides of my Seeker XXH 6'6" stick that I've used with nothing else-and Yes the guides are plain metal.
 
Check your ceramics carefully for cracks.
I once had a new rod with a cracked guide that i didn't notice
i lost 2 fish, flashers and lures before realizing the problem.
 
That has not been my experience in over 20 years of using Spectra fiber lines-in fact Spectra braid is so slick it hasn't left a mark on the guides of my Seeker XXH 6'6" stick that I've used with nothing else-and Yes the guides are plain metal.

Ive had it happen 2 seperate times to me. You must be super lucky!


Also the first time we ever set up for anchoring they sold us floating rope saying it was what all the best guides were using for anchoring there boats. Not good!

-KK
 
Ive had it happen 2 seperate times to me. You must be super lucky!


Also the first time we ever set up for anchoring they sold us floating rope saying it was what all the best guides were using for anchoring there boats. Not good!

-KK
What,s the problem with regular poly for anchor line KK? Bought a 600ft. spool of 5/16's last summer,and used it several times with no issues whatsoever.Please enlighten me!
 
What,s the problem with regular poly for anchor line KK? Bought a 600ft. spool of 5/16's last summer,and used it several times with no issues whatsoever.Please enlighten me!



If you ever anchor somwhere with no tide at all or when it switches over or if the wind is blowing into the tide and leaves the anchor rope slack it floats up on the surface. I had a few morons up at sherringham who dont know to run away from achored boats and almost wraped the line in his prop. Last time I anchored. Not going to again until I get a sinking line or switch to ring system and weight the rope.

KK
 
A well known tip is take a Q Tip and run it around each rod guide. If it catches at all look at gently sanding or much better replacing the guide.
 
Poly rope for anchoring...it floats so more likely for someone to run over it, it stretches alot so it will have more recoil if it snaps under load, it is harder on the hands when handling it, it breaks down quickly under uv light and looses it strength, you will replace it more often.......but its cheap
 
If you ever anchor somwhere with no tide at all or when it switches over or if the wind is blowing into the tide and leaves the anchor rope slack it floats up on the surface. I had a few morons up at sherringham who dont know to run away from achored boats and almost wraped the line in his prop. Last time I anchored. Not going to again until I get a sinking line or switch to ring system and weight the rope.

KK
Thanks for that,KK. I see the problem with it now.I run 450ft. of line plus 30ft. of chain and normally
anchor in 250-300ft. of water,so the scope is quite steep. If I was to anchor in shallower water with less scope
I can definately see issues.I guess I should track down some lead core this winter.
 
Poly rope for anchoring...it floats so more likely for someone to run over it, it stretches alot so it will have more recoil if it snaps under load, it is harder on the hands when handling it, it breaks down quickly under uv light and looses it strength, you will replace it more often.......but its cheap

Thanks as well for the tips,profisher.All good points to concider. Will be changing it out for some good lead core
ground line. The poly is still fine for the prawn traps!
 
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