Replacing my fuel tank - what things to adjust?

[N2013]

Gonna be replacing my fuel tank this winter for my Double Eagle 185. It's an original aluminum tank from 1998 and showing signs of wear. Might have some miles left on it but I don’t like waiting for something to go wrong. Nothing is being changed with layout, install, or location of the tank. What sort of things should I be looking to do with the rigging of the tank? I heard some guys using quick connects for their fittings should they need to swap out to a portable tank. Fuel/Water sep is in place but will move the location. Inspection hatch is over the fuel sender & manual tank shut off. Just wondering if there's anything else. Jenkins Marine will be doing the build/install. Pic is from 2020 when I pull the lid and cleaned & resealed. Thx in advance.

 

[wolf]

I get 2 pick up tubes made one for main and one for the kicker then 2 separate filters ... you can get alum valves with built in shut off very small and extremely handy they screw right into the pick up tubes

 

[Brando]

Have it made from 3/16 not 1/8 and add baffling. I’m curious about the 2 pickups vs just one 1/2” and single shutoff and then using the 2 outlets on the filter unit have you had supply issues with both motors running or just for safety? I love those valves.
Another good idea which I did not do in this tank but have in some is to add a doubler plate where the Reed switch is so that when you tap the holes (which always strip) your going into thicker material

 

[wolf]

I’m curious about the 2 pickups vs just one 1/2” and single shutoff and then using the 2 outlets on the filter unit have you had supply issues with both motors running or just for safety?

With these newer motors that some have high pressure fuel pumps sucking and if there isnt a anti siphon on the kickers side . it has happened that the suck back wreaks the diaphragms on the kickers especially the older ones. I always liked 2 pick ups as it gives you many more options why not if your building one .. And yes those are the valves Im talking about they are awesome..

 

[Rayvon]

I think you should have "Brando" build your tank. A friend had his 185 tank built by the shop that do's it for DE in Vancouver,they have the templates to match your tank.

 

[Foxsea]

I think you should have "Brando" build your tank. A friend had his 185 tank built by the shop that do's it for DE in Vancouver,they have the templates to match your tank.

^^^ Brando does very fine work!
I would only suggest that when the tank is mounted, ensure air can circulate to the sides and bottom to reduce corrosion.

 

[RELIC]

May want to consider getting an another bung welded in the front of the tank for a vent as some boats are hard to fuel up in the water with the stern down and the vent by the filler in the stern of the tank.

 

[gunnerlove]

I would move the vent to the highest portion of the tank (probably forward) because at rest and when running that is where the air pocket will be. Senders at the rear will also read optimistically so I would move it or them to the forward half. Dual pickups, senders and filters add redundancy at relatively low cost. If you are having a tank built it would be crazy to have two motors share a pick up.

 

[scott craven]

Considered plastic ?
Not sure about price but you wouldn't have to replace it again.

 

[easydoesit]

May I suggest that you consider using a vertical float sender in place of the traditional swing arm float sender historically employed in small boat fuel tanks? There is newer & better technology in this area. The vertical float resistance type senders are considered to be both more accurate and reliable than the swing arm style. They are available in dimensions and hole patterns that are compatible with NMMA tank specifications for installation and gauge operation.

I was frustrated with the lack of accuracy and reliability of the swing arm float I had installed myself. Things came to a head when my fuel gauge suddenly showed a fuel drop exceeding 80 litres out on the Gulf of Georgia with a forum member (Sotally Tober). After cleaning the electrical contacts we were back in business and determined to replace the fuel level sender. (Cleaning contacts wasn’t on the regular maintenance schedule) Found information on The Hull Truth and other sites. This really opened my eyes to the newer, better technology. Some fuel level sender technology hasn’t changed in over 50 years. Vertical resistance float sender technology is widely used in industry, as I found out.

I was able to order a fuel level sender for slightly more than a regular sender and my marine electrician friend installed it. When you order you need to specify the depth of your tank and include some reserve when you do.

FWIW my unit is an Isspro out of Oregon. Completely satisfied with it.

 

[ship happens]

The vertical floats work the best indeed. The plastic moellar tanks come with them installed. If you can fit a pre-made plastic tanks it's the way to go for sure. Imo