Refurbishing a 1992 Grady White 246G Explorer

[mgreen5228]

I just picked up a this Grady yesterday and plan to bring her back to life. I want to make this my ultimate fishing machine. The hull is sound according to the surveyor and the engines are essentially new. 30 hours on the Yamaha 250 which was installed October 2024. The 9.9 was done at the same time.

First step is to check the tanks and replace if needed.

Big picture is to replace anything that needs replacing and add a full furuno system of electronics.

I plan to document as I go. I am looking for input to keep me from being too stupid and show me some better ways from the experienced.

 

[mgreen5228]

First ste6is to remove the floor hatches to access yhe tanks. After a few different approaches I found that levering a knife from below was the best way to cut the caulk.

Got the hatch supports out and did a bunch of bilge cleaning. Like every other boat I have purchased, there are a lot of fir needles. Neither bilge pump is working.

I need to figure outva goid way to siphon out the fuel so I can lift out the first tank.

Day one and no bad surprises.

 

[JohnS]

First ste6is to remove the floor hatches to access yhe tanks. After a few different approaches I found that levering a knife from below was the best way to cut the caulk.

Got the hatch supports out and did a bunch of bilge cleaning. Like every other boat I have purchased, there are a lot of fir needles. Neither bilge pump is working.

I need to figure outva goid way to siphon out the fuel so I can lift out the first tank.

Day one and no bad surprises.

Always amazing how dirty those tanks get in a relatively well sealed cavity.

 

[Sailfish25]

First ste6is to remove the floor hatches to access yhe tanks. After a few different approaches I found that levering a knife from below was the best way to cut the caulk.

Got the hatch supports out and did a bunch of bilge cleaning. Like every other boat I have purchased, there are a lot of fir needles. Neither bilge pump is working.

I need to figure outva goid way to siphon out the fuel so I can lift out the first tank.

Day one and no bad surprises.

This is giving me Deja Vu - lots of fun and stress ahead.

Before re-sealing this cavity, you can lay down some braid all around the perimeter where you cut, so next time you want to pull the hatch off you just pull your braid line and slice through all the sika/silicone and the lid comes off

 

[kaelc]

Crazy someone would repower and not put working bilge pumps in! Appreciate your effort restoring the old battle wagon and documenting it.

 

[mgreen5228]

Always amazing how dirty those tanks get in a relatively well sealed cavity.

Relatively being the operative statement. The existing access hatches are the cheap ones that snap in. I have already ordered some new screw in style that will keep the water out better.

Before re-sealing this cavity, you can lay down some braid all around the perimeter where you cut, so next time you want to pull the hatch off you just pull your braid line and slice through all the sika/silicone and the lid comes off

The braid is a killer idea. I am trying to envision how to retrieve it when I would use it. Would you just leave a bit sticking up in one corner and put a screw in the center on the bottom? Or are you thinking that it would lay all the way around the perimeter and secure one end? I may not be seeing your plan here. It may make sense to use stainless wire as I think that the bottom of the hatch might cut the braid. I have been trying to figure out how to do a cleaning job painlessly in the future. Use a caulk that is easy to remove, or ???

 

[mgreen5228]

Crazy someone would repower and not put working bilge pumps in!

One thing I am not impressed with is the wiring. Maybe it was in loom at one point, but I don't believe it is tinned. Just having wires laying on top of an aluminum tank is not really a recipe for safety. I am planning on all new wiring.

But then again, the through hulls are about done for too. You can see that one is split and the barb is about to break off on another. If the bilge pump ran it could end up just recirculating the water. All new hoses and through hulls too, at least the ones below or close to the waterline.

I am not slamming Grady Whites at all. I don't think anyone knew how long plastic was going to last but we know better now. There is one Marelon fitting that looks great.

 

[seahorse]

Cool project, I took on a similar project when I bought a 1999 228G Seafarer from Verus Actions in Maple Ridge in Dec 2019. It was a salvage sale as the guy hit something and tore the outboard off the factory pod and broke the horns off so a new motor couldn’t be bolted on. I have replaced a lot of equipment over the years but love the hull. It’ll be a great feeling when you are out fishing or cruising with the family, it’s very rewarding, have fun, good luck and post lots of pictures.
One comment I forgot to mention was that this forum was a wealth of knowledge for my boat project so ask lots of questions as the members are more than happy to assist.

 

[Sailfish25]

Relatively being the operative statement. The existing access hatches are the cheap ones that snap in. I have already ordered some new screw in style that will keep the water out better.



The braid is a killer idea. I am trying to envision how to retrieve it when I would use it. Would you just leave a bit sticking up in one corner and put a screw in the center on the bottom? Or are you thinking that it would lay all the way around the perimeter and secure one end? I may not be seeing your plan here. It may make sense to use stainless wire as I think that the bottom of the hatch might cut the braid. I have been trying to figure out how to do a cleaning job painlessly in the future. Use a caulk that is easy to remove, or ???

With the access panel removed, Take the braid and just tack it down with sikka/silicone every foot or so around the perimeter of the opening.

Leave a few inches of braid sticking out - this is what you pull when you need to slice through the sealant next time you want to remove panel

 

[mgreen5228]

Seahorse, thanks for the encouragement. I am sure i will need more as I get further in.

Sailfish25, I appreciate the details. That is a great idea!

I got the second access floor panel removed and it looks the same as the first.

There is about a foot of empty space above the tank that is just dead space. Hmm.

I started pricing up my electronics package. I think I told my wife it would be about 15k. I am at almost 24k now. That is just my guesses or budget. I am hoping to find some boat show pricing but I am hearing that furuno does not do much promotion.

The other item I am hoping to find a deal on is either webatso or espar heat. I want to get the fog off the windows and get a bit of heat to the helm. I plan to mount in the cabin and duct some air to the dash at the helm. I have never done this before but have wanted to on a couple of my previous boats.

Any ideas or experience with this?

 

[Aces]

I’m think you’re going about your re furnishing correctly. Good luck! I found all my boat re build budgets were 30% higher, lol!

 

[Flashman]

Seahorse, thanks for the encouragement. I am sure i will need more as I get further in.

Sailfish25, I appreciate the details. That is a great idea!

I got the second access floor panel removed and it looks the same as the first.

There is about a foot of empty space above the tank that is just dead space. Hmm.

I started pricing up my electronics package. I think I told my wife it would be about 15k. I am at almost 24k now. That is just my guesses or budget. I am hoping to find some boat show pricing but I am hearing that furuno does not do much promotion.

The other item I am hoping to find a deal on is either webatso or espar heat. I want to get the fog off the windows and get a bit of heat to the helm. I plan to mount in the cabin and duct some air to the dash at the helm. I have never done this before but have wanted to on a couple of my previous boats.

Any ideas or experience with this?

What are you planning for electronics? I've been putting together a Furuno system for a refit over the past year. Just getting into the electrical install now.

 

[Topshot]

Seahorse, thanks for the encouragement. I am sure i will need more as I get further in.

Sailfish25, I appreciate the details. That is a great idea!

I got the second access floor panel removed and it looks the same as the first.

There is about a foot of empty space above the tank that is just dead space. Hmm.

I started pricing up my electronics package. I think I told my wife it would be about 15k. I am at almost 24k now. That is just my guesses or budget. I am hoping to find some boat show pricing but I am hearing that furuno does not do much promotion.

The other item I am hoping to find a deal on is either webatso or espar heat. I want to get the fog off the windows and get a bit of heat to the helm. I plan to mount in the cabin and duct some air to the dash at the helm. I have never done this before but have wanted to on a couple of my previous boats.

Any ideas or experience with this?

I just installed a Planar diesel heater that i got from Harbour Chanler. Very happy with it. Pumps out lots of heat and its quiet compared to the wallace that was in there before. I went with the 2d version as i was told its better to run them on high vs low so they don't carbon up. HC stocks lots of parts for them. Highly recommend