New Fly Fisherman Question

[Knot Working]

Ok...well I just got a cheap fly rod and fly reel, and I was mucking around with in my driveway not really knowing what I was doing. I hit the reel release and my reel spool popped off, as I quickly reached to grab it, I knocked the other half with my knee, and some of the inner workings feel out of place. I didn't get a chance to see how it was setup, so I am blindly trying to put it back together. I think I got it but I am not sure, here's my question. I have the tension to the tightest that it can go, but when I am casting the reel is slightly releasing line, and the more line that is out, the more weight cause more line to start coming out and seems like the tension isn't working right. When the tension is tight, should any line be coming out at all? (like a spinning reel)

If you are willing to help me out, you can email me at

elitefantasy_picks@yahoo.ca

I can also take pictures of the inner workings of the reel, remember it is a cheaper setup.

Thanks,

Knot Working

 

[Birdbrain]

Depending on what brand of reel, I may be able to help you. What brand and model is it?

To answer your question about the tension (AKA: drag): There should be no line pull against the reel, when you are casting. You hold the line in the hand that's not holding the rod.

I'm no computer geek, but I understand that it's easy to have your email address harvested by unscrupulous types, if you write it out. Some people say that if you put "at" and "dot" in place of "@" and "." you are safe, or safer.

 

[Knot Working]

So what if I get a fish on the line with the tension set to the tightest, then it shouldn't be able to run?? So that is why I don't think the tension is working right. The rod and reel is called Angler Pro (AP-905 is the Rod) (Angler Pro+ 5/6 is the reel) I have tried googling it but I can't seem to find it. Inside the reel is 2 aluminum pieces that connect to the tension and 2 metal "clips" that look like they go around the screws and they make the clicking noise. But you can put them in upside down or opposite. I've tried putting them in a couple different ways, but the line is still coming out when I cast.

I'm am going to try and upload some pics

http://img405.imageshack.us/i/dsc01417large.jpg/
http://img709.imageshack.us/i/dsc01413large.jpg/
http://img130.imageshack.us/i/dsc01414large.jpg/
http://img689.imageshack.us/i/dsc01415large.jpg/
http://img697.imageshack.us/i/dsc01416large.jpg/

 

[highlights]

Your drag should not be set to it's tightest. Why would you need to do that? I use a click and pawl on all my lightweight gear and control the line with my fingers when a fish is running. Never store your reel with it tightened up either it will compress the drag cork permanently.

 

[highlights]

PS, looked at your pics and I have to say that you do not have a drag system there. That is a traditional click and pawl system. You will never get it to clamp down like and Islander for example. It is simply to eliminate backlash of line while you are false casting.

 

[Birdbrain]

Those pics help a lot. It looks like you have it assembled correctly. But I don't understand what you mean by "2 aluminum pieces that connect to the tension". I don't see any aluminum pieces. I only see steel and plastic pieces. Are those aluminum pieces hidden underneath the black plastic piece, that is part of the tension adjustment?

As Highlights said, you have a "click and pawl", or "spring and pawl" system. Those two triangular-shaped pieces of steel, that pivot on screws, are the pawls. The pawls engage in teeth of the brass gear that's attached to the inside of the spool. The pawls are held in place by a steel spring. That spring can be moved back and forth, very slightly, by a knob on the back side of the reel. That will increase or decrease the pressure of the pawls against the gear, which will increase or decrease the amount of force needed to turn the spool. You can set the tension to different ranges, by how you set up the pawls. With both pawls facing into the gear, you have maximum tension. With only one pawl facing into the gear, you will have less tension. Depending on the reel, you may get different tensions with each of the two pawls engaged. Set it up however you want, in order to stop backlashes (line tangles in the reel), when you pull line out of the reel, in preparation for casting. If you are fishing for very small fish, set it for the lightest setting, without causing backlashes.

A click and pawl system doesn't have the power to stop the run of a strong fish. You can control the run by placing your palm against the rim of the rotating spool. That's called "palming the rim".

As I said before, there should be nothing pulling on the line from the spool, as you cast. So reel tension doesn't matter when casting. The line coming off the spool should be hanging loose, in the water or on the ground or on the bottom of the boat, depending on where you are casting. You hold the rod with one hand, and hold the line (leading into the rod guides) with the other hand. That "line hand" holds the weight of the line, as you cast. Therefore, there is NO pull against the line that is in the reel. The only time there is pull against the line that's in the reel, is when you pull more line out with your line hand, and when you have a fish on.

Hope this helps.

 

[highlights]

And that about sums it up. I just didn't have the energy in me to write out that detailed description. That should help you out though.

Good luck

 

[Knot Working]

Ya ok I think I got. I was trying that, leaving line in my left hand and dry casting, but I guess I wasn't leaving enough line. Cause every time I pulled back it would tighten and pinch my left hand cause I probably wasn't holding the line tight enough.

So should I leave a few more feet of play and grab the line tighter with my left hand and release it slowly depending how far I would like to cast it???

Thank you very much your patients and time, on answering my question.

 

[Knot Working]

PS...... the aluminium pieces I was referring to are the other 2 metal pieces in the picture shaped like a W. That top piece with the screw surrounded by plastic is my tension, on the outside is the + or -.

 

[Birdbrain]

I have lots of patience with fishing yack! When I'm not fishing, I love to talk about fishing.

That W-shaped metal spring is usually one piece, with the tension applied to the centre of it. It will be steel, as aluminum is too soft for a spring.

Here's an idea for practising your lawn casting, so you can forget about what to do with any loose line between the reel and the rod. Use your first and second fingers of your rod hand to clamp the line against the cork handle, and then put your line hand in your pocket. I do that when I practise sometimes, when I want to concentrate on timing, power, and motion, and just keep the line in the air for awhile. Then, if I want to move on to practising shooting line, I pull off some line to lay on the grass, and then put my line hand back in play.

There are a few decent online casting sites, such as this one:
http://www.***yloops.com/flycasting/contents.shtml

I find an image that helps me with the motion of the cast, is to imagine the rod is a big paint brush, loaded with paint. You are in a small room, and you want to flick paint on the wall behind you, and on the wall in front, without getting any on the ceiling. Think "straight line".