New 9.9 Fourstroke

Hey Jeff.......Is there room to mount the kicker right on the transom and get rid of the kicker bracker altogether? If so it makes it a lot easier for the steering linkage and also gets the weight off the back corner. Just curious.....it looks like there is room in the picture? I have about an 8 inch offset on my linkage arm and it works fine but the kicker and main are in line with each other because they are transom mounted and not on a bracket.
 
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Good point, RS - my Campion had the kicker mounted right beside my 115 4 stroke and the steering link worked just fine.
 

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Thanks guys was fun to get it out for a 3 hour tour today,even though I am having steering linkage issues I was having fun with the extenda handle steering,the boat transom is too skinny for the 9.9 to go next to the Main so I will have to bend a rod tomorrow for steering. :p
 
Thanks man, the original rod I bought for the other kicker was galvanized not stainless, used to be able to buy the steering rod ends but I think you need to buy the rod with the ends now, seen it at chandler for 72 bucks.
 
You can buy the ends lose a most boat shops then locate a stainless ready rod any where. There are really good ends available for about $25 each not cheap but worth every penny
 
ya I here ya, last time I checked a chandler they were sold in the kit only , no more loose ends, I wanted to upgrade the kit to stainless anyway, they are about double the cost of the galvanized kit but should last a long time. And if I mess up on the bends Sculpin has some extra stainless rod :)
 
When you do go to SS rod and ends put a torpedo float on it as well a slide it over JUST in case it ever comes off it will float. also with those ends if they rattle on the ball and socket which they mostly do (i hate rattles) best thing ive found is to use some A1 3/8 fuel line and cut a small washer to fit over the "socket" you may have t cut a few till you get the right thickness.... as you want it a bit snug then a bit of marine grease last forever... as A1 fuel line is double and corded so it lasts way longer

Good luck Wolf
 
When you do go to SS rod and ends put a torpedo float on it as well a slide it over JUST in case it ever comes off it will float. also with those ends if they rattle on the ball and socket which they mostly do (i hate rattles) best thing ive found is to use some A1 3/8 fuel line and cut a small washer to fit over the "socket" you may have t cut a few till you get the right thickness.... as you want it a bit snug then a bit of marine grease last forever... as A1 fuel line is double and corded so it lasts way longer

Good luck Wolf

Now that's brilliant:). Mine does rattle, very annoying Thanks
 
X2. Thanks for that tip,wolf. That rattle drives me nuts.Even tried tying back the steering rod with a couple of bungie
cords.Totally mickey mouse,but seems to work.Your idea sounds great though.Gonna give it try next time out.
 
I have the same setup as Bigbruce and when I replaced my kicker this past year the dimension of the mount had changed by a small amount.
I had to put a 10 mm plastic plate on the transom to allow for the kicker to tip up properly. When I did that my steering linkage realigned perfectly with just a minor adjustment to rod length, half a turn or so. I went to Can Tire and picked up a cutting board then ran it through the tablesaw for the right dimension.
 
Great tip thanks Wolf, I think I have it figured out now, picked up another stainless bar and ends (kit) this morning from HC , My good buddy Murr helped me bend er up right and we did the stainless propsaver too.002.jpg014.jpg:p
 
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