Marine battery
- Thread starter otter
- Start date
A marine battery is usually a "deep cycle" which are designed with thicker plates and capable of being nearly totally discharged on a regular basis without undue harm. This is not the case with a standard battery which will not tolerate being fully or nearly discharged very many times without harm or failure.
A marine or deep cycle battery also usually has less cranking amps than a standard or auto battery. I used two in all my boats, a standard auto starting battery for engine starts and a deep cycle for my accessories and downriggers etc and a switch system to isolate them or use in series or parallel as necessary.
A liar will assume you are lying
A marine or deep cycle battery also usually has less cranking amps than a standard or auto battery. I used two in all my boats, a standard auto starting battery for engine starts and a deep cycle for my accessories and downriggers etc and a switch system to isolate them or use in series or parallel as necessary.
A liar will assume you are lying
Barnacle Bill
Well-Known Member
I may be wrong, but I belive that a Marine Starting battery has different plates inside from a car battery. A starting battery should not be confused with a "Deep Cycle Battery", that is used to run accessories. I must admit that i have used a Car battery to run everything in my whaler, but a marine battery works and lasts longer.....BB
spring time
Well-Known Member
charlie do you want to weigh in on this one
wolf
Well-Known Member
Im not sure about that statement as I had to have a 1000 cca battery for the outboard I had not saying your wrong but the thing had tons of power dont know alot about all the different things...
I also thought that a marine battery had way thincker plates as well so they dont break down as the get bounced a bit and need it to stand up???
Wolf
Blue Wolf Charters
www.bluewolfcharters.com
There are deep cycle batteries now that can double as cranking batteries, they are more expensive though. Lots of power but not for as long while cranking i suspect.
Thicker plates yes but a marine application is not that much more bumpy than a 4x4 vehicle that is offroad a lot. Unless of course your battery tiedowns/holders are poorly set up.
I was referring to the basic application difference between the two and assume that if the new deep cycle cranking style was superior we would see it on new vehicles? At least as an option.
A liar will assume you are lying
wolf
Well-Known Member
LOL like I said dont know much about it all as there seems to be a so many diddefernt types of batteries out there.
But can tell you been in some boats that get tossed a lot more than any 4x4 ive ever done.was refering to the sharp sudden pounds you know the ones 2 ft chop semi flat bottom boat bang bang bang you get out and you have a compressed spine LOL Im sure WE have all been there and some still are. somethig said for a bigger boat......
Wolf
Blue Wolf Charters
www.bluewolfcharters.com
But can tell you been in some boats that get tossed a lot more than any 4x4 ive ever done.was refering to the sharp sudden pounds you know the ones 2 ft chop semi flat bottom boat bang bang bang you get out and you have a compressed spine LOL Im sure WE have all been there and some still are. somethig said for a bigger boat......
Wolf
Blue Wolf Charters
www.bluewolfcharters.com
sookeaholla
Member
Never scrimp on batteries or tires. Here's an interesting site that
describes the differences between battery types. Next time I'm due
for new batt's it's going to be gel cells for sure, probably Optima's.
http://www.magnacharge.com/mchg_all.htm
Shake N Bake
describes the differences between battery types. Next time I'm due
for new batt's it's going to be gel cells for sure, probably Optima's.
http://www.magnacharge.com/mchg_all.htm
Shake N Bake
Charlie
Well-Known Member
Automotive, or SLI (starting, lighting & ignition)
SLI batteries are commonly used to start and run automobiles, where a very large starting current is needed for a short time. SLI batteries have many very thin plates with a large surface area, designed to be discharged no more than 1 to 5% from full charge. These can be damaged quickly if deep cycled.
Marine / Deep Cycle
Deep cycle batteries are designed to be discharged down as much as 80% time after time, and have much thicker plates.
The so-called Marine deep-cycle batteries are actually a "hybrid", and fall between the SLI and deep-cycle batteries. These should not be discharged more than 50%. SLI batteries are usually rated at "CCA", or cold cranking amps, or "MCA, Marine cranking amps". Any battery with the capacity shown in "cranking amps" is NOT a deep-cycle battery, and some marine batteries with MCA ratings may be a hybrid (basically a battery with thicker plates than an automotive battery, but thinner than a true deep-cycle).
Nay... that pretty much sums it up:
Just make sure the battery you have/buying has the minimum cranking amps for the engine connected? They are different from each manufacture, including the big names!
I would suggest a "marine battery" as they do have thicker plates... and most on here would want/need a Group 24, some a Group 27, very few a Group 31?.
SLI batteries are commonly used to start and run automobiles, where a very large starting current is needed for a short time. SLI batteries have many very thin plates with a large surface area, designed to be discharged no more than 1 to 5% from full charge. These can be damaged quickly if deep cycled.
Marine / Deep Cycle
Deep cycle batteries are designed to be discharged down as much as 80% time after time, and have much thicker plates.
The so-called Marine deep-cycle batteries are actually a "hybrid", and fall between the SLI and deep-cycle batteries. These should not be discharged more than 50%. SLI batteries are usually rated at "CCA", or cold cranking amps, or "MCA, Marine cranking amps". Any battery with the capacity shown in "cranking amps" is NOT a deep-cycle battery, and some marine batteries with MCA ratings may be a hybrid (basically a battery with thicker plates than an automotive battery, but thinner than a true deep-cycle).
Nay... that pretty much sums it up:
Just make sure the battery you have/buying has the minimum cranking amps for the engine connected? They are different from each manufacture, including the big names!
I would suggest a "marine battery" as they do have thicker plates... and most on here would want/need a Group 24, some a Group 27, very few a Group 31?.
I run the optimas, they are not a lead acid battery but a AGM (applied glass mat) and an excellent choice for boats.
you have 6 pair of neg and positive set of plates. In a charged state the plates are coated with lead peroxide and sponge lead. In a discharged state the lead starts to turn to lead sulfate on both plates and converts back to lead peroxide and sponge lead when a charge is placed on it.
Batteries have two enemies, undercharge state and vibrating. In an undercharged state the lead sulfate will not want to turn back to the lead peroxide and sponge lead and you also loose capacity. Vibration knocks off the sulfates off the plates and you loose capacity.
A starting battery has the same amount of lead as a deep cycle but has more, thinner plates then a deep cycle to create more surface area with the electrolyte and able to discharge a lot of current quick but can drain itself fast.
A deep cycle battery has fewer but thicker plates with less surface area so less immediate cranking amps but will spread their charge out over a longer time are more robust and less susceptible to the sulfates from falling off the plates when discharged.
the optimas have the two plates rolled together and saturated in the electrolyte, not sitting in an acid bath. Being rolled together they don't suffer the vibration problems of lead acid batteries, and they are fully sealed and can be put in any direction with no gassing or leaking of acid.
also, although my house optima is rated at 850 cca, thats and average rating over its rated life time and new it tested over 1000.
Marine batteries are deep cycle batteries with more robust plates and connections to deal with the vibrations of a marine environment.
you have 6 pair of neg and positive set of plates. In a charged state the plates are coated with lead peroxide and sponge lead. In a discharged state the lead starts to turn to lead sulfate on both plates and converts back to lead peroxide and sponge lead when a charge is placed on it.
Batteries have two enemies, undercharge state and vibrating. In an undercharged state the lead sulfate will not want to turn back to the lead peroxide and sponge lead and you also loose capacity. Vibration knocks off the sulfates off the plates and you loose capacity.
A starting battery has the same amount of lead as a deep cycle but has more, thinner plates then a deep cycle to create more surface area with the electrolyte and able to discharge a lot of current quick but can drain itself fast.
A deep cycle battery has fewer but thicker plates with less surface area so less immediate cranking amps but will spread their charge out over a longer time are more robust and less susceptible to the sulfates from falling off the plates when discharged.
the optimas have the two plates rolled together and saturated in the electrolyte, not sitting in an acid bath. Being rolled together they don't suffer the vibration problems of lead acid batteries, and they are fully sealed and can be put in any direction with no gassing or leaking of acid.
also, although my house optima is rated at 850 cca, thats and average rating over its rated life time and new it tested over 1000.
Marine batteries are deep cycle batteries with more robust plates and connections to deal with the vibrations of a marine environment.
D
doger5
Guest
Go to canadian tire and get AGM (applied glass mats ) there about $150 each and for a extra $10 you get a 9 year over the counter replacement. Cant beat that. also this applies to all elimators batteries add the $10 extra fee will make them free replacement for 9 years. dont tell them you use there batteries in your boat
Charlie
Well-Known Member
I guess you get my 2 cents after all! 
That might work, if you want to go through the hassle of replacing battery(s), every year or so? Personally, I don't! That would be a lot more trouble for me than it is worth!
There is a little more to it than just going out and buying an AGM battery and installing it and thinking it’s going to last nine years – which it won’t! First, be aware each manufacture can have different specifications they rate their batteries on? You need to look at the MCA: Marine Cranking Amps - The amount of amps a battery can produce at 320 F. CCA: Cold Cranking Amps - The number of amps a battery can deliver for 30 seconds at 00 F and maintain 7.2 volts. RC: The amount of minutes a battery can be discharged to 10.5 volts by 25-amp discharge at 800F. Amp Hour (Ah or ah): A unit of measure for a battery’s storage capacity obtained by the amount of amps a battery can be discharged (typically 1.75vpc) multiplied by the amount of hours @ 80F (26.7C) . Most auto/marine and light truck batteries are tested at a 20-hour discharge rate.
Different batteries are designed to perform under different conditions. ALL deep cycle batteries are mostly rated on number of cycles – NOT years! It all has to do with what you are NEED and are trying to accomplish? Putting a AGM Battery Group U-1 32 Ah (48 minute reserve) in a boat that NEEDS a Group 27 92 Ah (175 minute reserve) might end up being more trouble than it is worth? And, not sure “I” would want to be taking the battery(s) back every year to exchange, as that IS what would have to happen. A battery of that nature CANNOT last under my use! It is much easier to buy the correct size battery to start with.
Don’t buy the cheapest battery – buy the best battery for the cheapest price!
That might work, if you want to go through the hassle of replacing battery(s), every year or so? Personally, I don't! That would be a lot more trouble for me than it is worth!
There is a little more to it than just going out and buying an AGM battery and installing it and thinking it’s going to last nine years – which it won’t! First, be aware each manufacture can have different specifications they rate their batteries on? You need to look at the MCA: Marine Cranking Amps - The amount of amps a battery can produce at 320 F. CCA: Cold Cranking Amps - The number of amps a battery can deliver for 30 seconds at 00 F and maintain 7.2 volts. RC: The amount of minutes a battery can be discharged to 10.5 volts by 25-amp discharge at 800F. Amp Hour (Ah or ah): A unit of measure for a battery’s storage capacity obtained by the amount of amps a battery can be discharged (typically 1.75vpc) multiplied by the amount of hours @ 80F (26.7C) . Most auto/marine and light truck batteries are tested at a 20-hour discharge rate.
Different batteries are designed to perform under different conditions. ALL deep cycle batteries are mostly rated on number of cycles – NOT years! It all has to do with what you are NEED and are trying to accomplish? Putting a AGM Battery Group U-1 32 Ah (48 minute reserve) in a boat that NEEDS a Group 27 92 Ah (175 minute reserve) might end up being more trouble than it is worth? And, not sure “I” would want to be taking the battery(s) back every year to exchange, as that IS what would have to happen. A battery of that nature CANNOT last under my use! It is much easier to buy the correct size battery to start with.
Don’t buy the cheapest battery – buy the best battery for the cheapest price!
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