Line twist

[fish stalker]

I was trying everything in the derby, hootchie w/flasher, plugs no flasher.. Trolling slower with classic plugs so tried the elastic trick, but ended up with nasty line twist. Pulled a whole bunch off. Then got it again on a non plug line. Pulled a bunch more off. Was it just thr seaweed on the swivel? Still seemed to spin with it on before I took it off. I had been adjusting my depth once and awhile, going down I think fine but I think my technique of bringing dr up a few feet (10 or so) and just tighting down on the line to take up the slack might have done it? or? it was a real pain in the butt. If you left the twisted line on wasnt to bad until the line was slack for the split second of being clipped on on the surface and about to pull the crank and it would wrap itself around the rod tip grr. Pretty sure you just have to pull it all off? wont work its way back out after a few more hours of nontwist fishing?

 

[scott craven]

Do you use a bead chain and a snap between your rod and your flasher ?

 

[Rip Tide]

To get the twist out cut the swivel off. With the boat moving at a fast troll let out 100-150ft of line. Drag it for 5-7 minutes it will untwist it self. Works for me

 

[fish stalker]

awesome thanks!

nope swivels and snaps are on the lure side. i tie right to welded ring on barrel swivel that comes stock on flashers. (not old corroded ones either)

 

[scott craven]

awesome thanks!

nope swivels and snaps are on the lure side. i tie right to welded ring on barrel swivel that comes stock on flashers. (not old corroded ones either)

Try adding a bead chain and snap to the rod end.
I think you'll find it will eliminate twist and make it easy to change your terminal gear.

 

[fish stalker]

how often do you retie your bead chain? I thought for the best action of the flasher your supposed to tie directly to line. thanks

 

[Rob H]

fish stalker: I recommend you use a bead threaded on your mainline then a ball-bearing or beadchain swivel and quick change. The bead will protect your rod top and also stop weed from getting to your swivel. The second swivel is extra insurance if weed fouls your flasher swivel. I also wouldn't use any flashers that don't have a good ball-bearing swivel at the front end (I much prefer to have the b.b. swivel at both ends).

...Rob

 

[scott craven]

Not really necessary to retie that often, the bead chain simply assists the flasher swivel.

 

[Finished Business]

Try adding a bead chain and snap to the rod end.
I think you'll find it will eliminate twist and make it easy to change your terminal gear.

x2

5 or 6 bead swivel with a snap. quick changes of gear, easy to break down the rods. I would add a plastic or soft bead in front of your chain swivel though so you don't reel to far and pull the bead swivel through the top eye of the rod.

 

[Seafever]

Yep....everyone nailed it......beadchain(strong enough size) in front of the ball bearing swivel on the front of the flasher.

And if you are running one of those triangular inline flashers that Delta or Hotspot (Agitator) makes, where you have it on the line like a regular flasher with the lure strung out behind it........you are going to need several beadchains before and after the flasher. You wouldn't think an inline rotating flasher like the "Agitator" would produce much line twist....oh yes they will....your leader and main will look like a bowl of sphagetti .

 

[fish stalker]

thanks everyone!

 

[wolf]

when your down at trotac again ask paul for the "Sampo coastlock " quick change the are awesome sampo ball bearing and quickchange all in one its all I use and put a plastic bead on the line as well to save your rod tip eye as others have mentioned.

good luck Fish


Wolf

 

[lucky strikes]

wolf/high five any chance of posting a photo of that please. cheers

 

[Labman2]

http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/sampo-coastlock-snap-swivels/337120.aspx
Like these.

 

[Rockfish]

No matter what swivel set up you use, flashers beat up fishing line as do release clips and weaken knots over time for that matter. Every so often cut off a little of your line and retie it. Preferably you cut it off back of where you normally put it in the release clip and you do not need to have your flasher 60 feet out from your release clip. Mine are usually about 18 feet out although I am curious what others are using, especially very successful guides. What is considered optimal for Big Chinook?

Also run sections of your line through your fingers to check for abrasions cuts and general wear,the same as you do for leader and replace line often, especially if you are getting tangled up, stuck on the bottom, hauling in kelp or having played some seals recently. Everyone has their own preference for line. I use Berkley high res Big Game in 40 and 30 lb. I buy it in the 4440 yard spools; that way my cheap gene does not kick in and delay changing it when I should. You can get it in different colors so that if your lines are tangled say from playing a double header, you can see to untangle them more easily while playing the fish.

Some stores use to take back used line for recycling; not sure if that is still happening?