sly_karma
Crew Member
I see you keep the jigs all rigged on leaders. I have always done that with trolling gear but not with jigs. I guess I figure figure that If I put on a fresh leader I am less likely to keep using slightly damaged ones I didn't examine closely enough, and that the rolled up leader will be kinked and more likely to snag on the jig. I am not sure either are actually really good reasons that make much difference and rigging definitely takes time if the bite is on. I may switch to pre-rigging now I actually consider it.
The advice in the OG thread "High Tech Jigging" was to use stiff leader like 50 lb fluoro, to minimise tangling up. This is important since a rapid, near free fall drop is critical for centre weighted jigs. With braided main line, even 40 lb is so supple and the jig moves so much laterally that it tends to drop across the braid unless the leader is stiff enough to hold the main line away from the jig. I think that adding a snap between jig and leader takes away much of that stiffness, so direct tie it is, 36-40" length. Jigs that saw a lot of use are re-tied each season. That heavy fluoro takes a lot of punishment, but you do need to be diligent about wetting knots when tying, otherwise embrittlement can happen.
You're right that this presents a tangle hazard in the tackle box though. I've learnt to choose a couple of jigs for the session and attach them to the rods before I start looking for feed. Frustrating to find that great big glowing bait ball, only to drift off it while scrabbling around in the Plano trying to separate the right jig from its neighbour. I put the rod in a vertical holder and strip out enough line so the jig can lay on the boat deck, then go hunting. Spot some bait, stop the boat, bombs away within seconds.