Jigging or Drift Fishing for Salmon

I see you keep the jigs all rigged on leaders. I have always done that with trolling gear but not with jigs. I guess I figure figure that If I put on a fresh leader I am less likely to keep using slightly damaged ones I didn't examine closely enough, and that the rolled up leader will be kinked and more likely to snag on the jig. I am not sure either are actually really good reasons that make much difference and rigging definitely takes time if the bite is on. I may switch to pre-rigging now I actually consider it.

The advice in the OG thread "High Tech Jigging" was to use stiff leader like 50 lb fluoro, to minimise tangling up. This is important since a rapid, near free fall drop is critical for centre weighted jigs. With braided main line, even 40 lb is so supple and the jig moves so much laterally that it tends to drop across the braid unless the leader is stiff enough to hold the main line away from the jig. I think that adding a snap between jig and leader takes away much of that stiffness, so direct tie it is, 36-40" length. Jigs that saw a lot of use are re-tied each season. That heavy fluoro takes a lot of punishment, but you do need to be diligent about wetting knots when tying, otherwise embrittlement can happen.

You're right that this presents a tangle hazard in the tackle box though. I've learnt to choose a couple of jigs for the session and attach them to the rods before I start looking for feed. Frustrating to find that great big glowing bait ball, only to drift off it while scrabbling around in the Plano trying to separate the right jig from its neighbour. I put the rod in a vertical holder and strip out enough line so the jig can lay on the boat deck, then go hunting. Spot some bait, stop the boat, bombs away within seconds.
 
No extra leaders needed if you use a solid ring (or fig 8 ring) with a good split ring and a pair of split ring pliers.
Swap the jig in seconds. Hooks can be on top or bottom or both.
 

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My jigging setup is a pair of 66MH2 Trevalas paired with Ambassadeur C4 6600 reels. The retrieve rate of 6.3:1 is mostly fast enough to keep pressure on a salmon hooked deep and rocketing to the surface. A 1000 ft spool of Depth Hunter 40 lb coloured braid splits nicely between them. About 3 ft of 50 lb fluoro leader material ahead of the lure so it stands off from the line and doesn't tangle on the drop. Nice light, balanced setup that isn't at all fatiguing for jigging. If I were a more frequent visitor to salt water, I'd probably upgrade to an all-metal reel like an Accurate Valiant 500, but the Abu reels are pretty good for the money. Plastic components do keep the weight down and that's an important consideration for an active setup like this.

The go-to lures for me are Shimano's flat fall jigs in the 160 g and 130 g sizes. Wind and current on the BC coast move things around a lot,; lighter jigs will struggle beyond 80-100 ft unless anchored or with someone full time on the boat controls. The lateral fluttering action on the drop is impressive with the Shimano lures, amazing to see 5 oz of lead going sideways. As noted, they're expensive (north of $20 apiece), so when in areas I'm not familiar with, I do a few test drops to bottom with some lesser lead to see if it's 'grabby'. Or just stay off bottom altogether - the colour indicating braid is great for this. I haven't seen the need to move the assist hooks to the top of the lure as some do, more of a bottom fishing thing.

For salmon, I'll chug around semi-slow looking for feed and fish marks, and to get a read on wind and current conditions. Then I'll set up on a promising tack with the transom pointing into the wind/current and with the kicker running, bumping it in and out of reverse to keep the line as vertical in the water as possible. I have a 10" sonar screen set up where I can see it at a glance. Drop either to bottom and jig up, or just below bait if the feed is suspended up higher in the water column.

The initial drop from the surface is the most important: get the boat stationary, then hover a thumb over the spool to provide very light control of the free-falling jig, and, more importantly, to feel a hit - press that thumb down hard and rip its lip. Most of the strikes come as the jig is falling, so you need to be ready. Once at desired depth, lift the rod tip up 6-8 ft, take one turn on the reel, let the jig flutter down 3-4 ft, repeat. I keep the drag set fairly light and use my thumb on the spool to prevent slip as I lift the rod tip. Again, the strikes will almost always come as the jig falls, the first clue you'll have is when you lift the tip again. Yes you could set the drag heavier as for bottom fishing, but salmon strikes are usually hit-and-run, so excess drag could be too much and that first head shake breaks you off.

Salmon jigging is a blast. Feeling the strike the instant it happens, the rod coming alive in your hands. Trolling has its days, especially if the fish are holding deep, but playing feisty fish in close on light gear is addictive.

Thank You very much for the detailed description of your techniques. I have recently ventured waaaaaay down the rabbit hole of slow pitch jigging and have recently put together a jigging rod with a trevala rod, abu reel and I have some depth hunter line being shipped within the next week. Thanks also to @spring fever Mike for showing me your setup and jigs when I purchased my new reel from you. ( his Shadowline boat is absolutely gorgeous btw). I predominantly troll in CR and do very well, but the thrill is definitely gone and I need a new spark. I think that slow pitch jigging on a well balanced setup is going to provide the spark.

Question: do you guys attach your braid to your Fluoro with a knot such as a double uni, or do you use a swivel or another type of hardware? During my research there seems to be differing opinions on the matter. Some say a piece of hardware gets the fluro away from the mainline better than a knot does?
I will start accumulating the very expensive jigs over the course of winter so “the one who must be obeyed “ doesn’t get alerted to my new hobby. I’m not usually a winter salmon fisherman but I might venture out and play around a bit; as other have mentioned, getting the feel of the drop in relation to current so the jig stays vertical and doesn’t get too scoped out are things I want to determine before the larger springs start showing up In the summer.

I know about the OG thread but let’s keep the discussion rolling !
 
I have to admit that while I use fluoro leaders for fly fishing and really think it has serious advantages, I actually use 40-50lb monofilament as my leader for jigging. Its not that I disagree with the advantages of fluorocarbon leader for jigging, its just maybe inertia. I liked various weights of monofilament for leaders trolling and haven't switched. I did see the thread on the forum with pages of impassioned debate on the subject for trolling.
As far as attachment, I normally tie a bead swivel between my mainline braid and my leader and attach my leader to my jig with a knot. In general I haven't had too much trouble with the jig fouling my leader using monofilament, but it does happen occasionally, maybe that would be improved with flouro.
As far as the Hi Tech Jigging thread, that is absolutely excellent as far as technique and equipment advice, I only started this one to hopefully have an ongoing conversation about jigging for salmon without hijacking that thread.
I also hope to get out over Christmas to do some jigging, I am in Manitoba right now and won't be back till after students finish exams. I have to admit since I have been fishing out of CR the last several years, I haven't caught a keeper winter spring. Hopefully I'll rectify that over Christmas.
 
For bigger summer chinook, I've settled on about 50' of 20lb mono followed by a 10 (ish)' length of 20lb fluoro. I've been using a double uni knot for both, but since moving to 20lb, the knots are a bit big, so I'll probably switch to an fg knot. I like the length of mono as it gives just a bit of flex which allows me to use a little bit stiffer rod and not totally crush my hook-to-land ratio. I might incorporate a barrel swivel and move to a shorter length of fluoro as I sometimes end up with line twist, depending on the jig.

I was out with a pal last weekend and we mooched red label herring and 16-pack anchovies for winters in about 150'. Got into a few decent ones and it was a riot!
 
FG knot with Rizzuto finish for braid to fluoro. Practice tying it and you can get it done in under a couple minutes on the boat.

I usually run ~10lb less fluoro so if I get a break off it is here and not in the braid.
 
Yeah, they're crazy expensive. Honestly, I haven't had a ton of luck with the flat falls. I've had better luck with good ol' Mac Deeps and the lookalikes, and the gomame jigs. I'm sure there will be a time when the flat falls produce, but I don't have a ton of confidence in them yet.
I like flat falls but get a lot of knock-offs from Ali express-you have to shop carefully-know what you are looking for(use You tube-"slow pitch jigging") be prepared for a 6 week wait-but you can get it all-hooks' kevlar chord thousands of blanks-watch your shipping costs and know the weights of jigs you require
 
Yeah, they're crazy expensive. Honestly, I haven't had a ton of luck with the flat falls. I've had better luck with good ol' Mac Deeps and the lookalikes, and the gomame jigs. I'm sure there will be a time when the flat falls produce, but I don't have a ton of confidence in them yet.
yes i love macdeeps. i’m also a huge fan of point wilson darts. i happen to have heaps of both but i wanted to try these. i wonder if the lack of luck has something to do with the assist hooks? i have so much to learn about slow pitch jigging
 
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I like flat falls but get a lot of knock-offs from Ali express-you have to shop carefully-know what you are looking for(use You tube-"slow pitch jigging") be prepared for a 6 week wait-but you can get it all-hooks' kevlar chord thousands of blanks-watch your shipping costs and know the weights of jigs you require
hey Mike are the Ali express jigs any good? do they catch?
 
hey Mike are the Ali express jigs any good? do they catch?
Well--some do-you have to pick through them because there are many types and hundreds of colours. You need to really spend a few hours wading through the slow pitch jig vids on You tube which shows you all the different types of jigs-when to use them . Most jigs do not come with hook set-ups so you have to learn to tie those. You learn there are more jigs than the Shimano flat fall jigs and specialized ones for getting down quickly in areas of currant like the hump in campbell river. You can resurrect your old jigs like mac deeps and re-tie them with assist hooks on the top which makes them way more efficient. Great winter pastime!!
 
Well--some do-you have to pick through them because there are many types and hundreds of colours. You need to really spend a few hours wading through the slow pitch jig vids on You tube which shows you all the different types of jigs-when to use them . Most jigs do not come with hook set-ups so you have to learn to tie those. You learn there are more jigs than the Shimano flat fall jigs and specialized ones for getting down quickly in areas of currant like the hump in campbell river. You can resurrect your old jigs like mac deeps and re-tie them with assist hooks on the top which makes them way more efficient. Great winter pastime!!
You tease! Please post some pics of your hump jigs!
Right now just looking at my boat under too much snow.
 
You tease! Please post some pics of your hump jigs!
Right now just looking at my boat under too much snow.
Give me a few days here and I will line them up and shoot a few. I have learned so much since I have been snowed in and the wife has Covid. I am spending a lot of time looking for pencil jigs and various flat fall jigs that have various degrees of flatness. The shimano jigs are great-I use them a lot but the hump currant is sometimes too fast to make them the ideal jig--you can pitch them into the currant and work the boat all you like but because they have such a large surface area they are very difficult to get vertical with-the pencil jigs and of course weight is supposed to help-these jigs are designed to get to the bottom quicker. Right now I am re-tying all my jigging rods with 40lb fluoro to 50 lb braid using an Alberta knot. Why they call it that since it comes from the South Florida saltwater jigger is beyond me. Why 40 to 50-lots of guys use much heavier flouro or mono but I fish by myself a lot-if I hang up in heavy currant I want to be able to break off and not lose my very expensive braid. Thats the simple explanation-I had considered 30 for the same reason and still may do it. I'm sure there are lots of arguments for much heavier fluoro or mono and some of the vids I watched explained it-but in the end it's personal and you do what works for you.
 
Give me a few days here and I will line them up and shoot a few. I have learned so much since I have been snowed in and the wife has Covid. I am spending a lot of time looking for pencil jigs and various flat fall jigs that have various degrees of flatness. The shimano jigs are great-I use them a lot but the hump currant is sometimes too fast to make them the ideal jig--you can pitch them into the currant and work the boat all you like but because they have such a large surface area they are very difficult to get vertical with-the pencil jigs and of course weight is supposed to help-these jigs are designed to get to the bottom quicker. Right now I am re-tying all my jigging rods with 40lb fluoro to 50 lb braid using an Alberta knot. Why they call it that since it comes from the South Florida saltwater jigger is beyond me. Why 40 to 50-lots of guys use much heavier flouro or mono but I fish by myself a lot-if I hang up in heavy currant I want to be able to break off and not lose my very expensive braid. Thats the simple explanation-I had considered 30 for the same reason and still may do it. I'm sure there are lots of arguments for much heavier fluoro or mono and some of the vids I watched explained it-but in the end it's personal and you do what works for you.
No Mexico this year?
 
Right now I am re-tying all my jigging rods with 40lb fluoro to 50 lb braid using an Alberta knot. Why they call it that since it comes from the South Florida saltwater jigger is beyond me. Why
Are you talking about the Crazy Alberto knot?

I've been using a Spider Hitch in braid to make a double line and then a Triple Surgeon between braid loop and leader for 20 years and have never had it fail unexpectedly. I like the tag end of the leader to point towards the reel so casts or at the boat fish runs aren't pulling the tag end into the rod guides.

Spider Hitch

Triple Surgeon's Knot

This knot combo is definitely super fast to do in the field so even if you rig up fancy at the dock, it's a good backup.

The Slim Beauty knot looks decent too. Might try that out.

Finally I recommend leaving a slightly longer tag end than you want to with fluorocarbon leaders. The material is so hard and the braid can't bite into it like softer mono.
 
I agree the Shimano flatfall jigs are quite expensive. I have a few and like them a lot. Its a bit heartbreaking when you lose one, and I have lost several, and fish fairly often with family members who seem to lose more.
I really do think the shimano jigs are effective for salmon (I haven't tried the Daiwa or others but assume some would also be excellent), but I think part of what makes them effective is the way you keep them moving, dropping them, reeling and jigging, moving through various depths quite rapidly.
I also use point wilson darts and other jigs, and I rig them up with assist hooks I tie up. I used PW darts in pearl white a lot this last season and arguably they were the most successful for me. But as I say its not very scientific because whatever I use most is likely to be highly successful, and early season success made me confident in them.
I think the assist hooks I rig the PW darts with make a difference in hookups, but I think the way you fish the jigs has a huge impact. I fish what i think is pretty standard for the Shimano Flatfalls - Drop it down (and if you don't get a hit on the way down) Reel, pull, drop, reel, pull, drop back up through the depth area you think the will be productive, then drop it right back down.... I keep the jig moving pretty quickly and I think this is much more productive than the technique that was popular when I did a lot of jigging in the 80s and is normal for bottomfish. Where you drop down and lift and drop the jig in one place until you are convinced you need to move it up or down in depth. A friend of mine who is a very effective fisher having worked as a guide and fished recreationally a lot, visits and fishes with me a few times a year. He likes jigging these days but is totally committed to single action mooching reels and most of the time does the pull up and drop thing without a lot of reeling and constant up and down, and even though he in other sorts of salmon fishing usually massively outfishes me - I tend to catch way more salmon jigging than he does.
So my takeaway is that the action you provide and constant vertical movement are as important factors in success as particular jigs. I also note that even though they are pretty symmetrical on each side the PW darts also tend to "flat fall" on slack line.

I have a couple other Shimano jigs (purchased at River Sportsman) that are a different design and more symmetrical side to side, with a single assist hook at the top. They do not "flatfall" the same way and drop down way faster in heavy current. I have used them a bit, and caught 2 fish, but I don't use them regularly and therefore can't really say if they are equally effective.

Sorry for the long explanation, but my short comment is that I think its not really any magic in the specific shimano jigs but the technique and the way hooks are rigged.
 
You can resurrect your old jigs like mac deeps and re-tie them with assist hooks on the top which makes them way more efficient. Great winter pastime!!
Interesting. in my minds eye, having a PWD top rigged would mean the hooks would be fluttering above and away from the jig on the drop… sounds like the hookups only occur on the retrieve, or upward jig of the rod?
 
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