How to best mount my downriggers

[N2013]

I’m looking to properly setup my downriggers with a pair of swivel mounts along the gunnels of my 185 DE, and remove the older slide & tilt up mounting brackets. Unfortunately, the bolting dimensions are not compatible and would like to avoid turning the gunnels into Swiss cheese.

-Would it be possible to remove all the mounts, fill in/reglass the holes, paint, then correctly mount??

-Mount the downrigger over the existing holes on the slide bracket? (Would be worried about the integrity of that area though with 4 small holes already in it.)

-Or am I dreaming & just need to make this setup work?

Am totally new the glass game.

Thx

 

[scott craven]

Just remove the tip up bracket and bolt your swivel base to the gunnel
you might need to reinforce underneath with a block and use longer bolts.
screw the tip up bracket onto the swivel base and your're done.

 

[wolf]

Dont think its wide enough to hold a swivel mount Scott. id fill them all in and start from new I had my metal guy bend me some brackets all you have to do is make a template of the angles (use cardboard) and then you attach it to top of gunnel and the side which really makes it tough send me a text and ill send you a pic if you want here is one for you this is a few years old so dont be saying "what your keeping springs"

 

[RiverBoy]

here is the same angle shot from my DE 185. you can see that the base plate slightly hangs over the edge of the gunnel. With some creative drilling and fortification on the underside you can make it work. Mine are rock solid

 

[RiverBoy]

Here are some pics of the baseplate and the underside as well. it’s tight but it will go. gunnels on fhese DE’s are thick so you’ll prolly need to get some long stainless hardware.

 

[Pineapple Express]

That's a super helpful post RiverBoy!

 

[N2013]

View attachment 46511 View attachment 46510 Here are some pics of the baseplate and the underside as well. it’s tight but it will go. gunnels on fhese DE’s are thick so you’ll prolly need to get some long stainless hardware.

Awesome. Thanks for the pics.

 

[RiverBoy]

Awesome. Thanks for the pics.

No worries. my photo just revealed the finishing wrap is peeling. got to go get some 3M adhesive spray now!

 

[Chuck]

On my tinner the DR mounts are formed and welded, similar in design to what Wolf is running. With a fabbed aluminum mount it can be formed and tough as you’ll get, also add some height if needed. My preference!!

 

[wolf]

Only thing id do a bit different is on the inner bolts use a long piece of plate that goes about 3 or 4 inchs past the bolt holes front of base isnt the worry its the back of base(inner on side) that has the most torque. especially with the long arm rigger a heck of a lot of pull with boom out ive seen some riggers almost come off boats when getting hung up on bottom or worse yet submerged crab floats, ive seen a few boats over years pop right thru even one where rigger ripped right off.

 

[casper5280]

On my old DE, I just machined up some StarBoard to rise the mount up so I could move them inboard a bit more. and as Wolf said a piece of aluminum plate under them.

 

[halimark]

Here's what I did on my 18.6 DE, multiple options with rod holders. Kids and some don't like the reach on downrigger arm and for hali only use sidewinders. I take downriggers off for hali season and this mounting style keeps gunnel smooth. Plate is mounted on side of gunnel. Same sort of backing plate behind for strength and distribute torque.

 

[halimark]

Not sure how that pick got rotated and text messed up. Think you can still see, if I had to redo I would bring riggers forward to where sidewinder mount is. I like the smooth gunnel when downriggers are not in use 75% of my time in boat. We prefer to jig, hali fish and also hunt from boat.

HM

 

[doubleeagle]

also same set up on my 18.6 DE

 

[N2013]

View attachment 46511 View attachment 46510 Here are some pics of the baseplate and the underside as well. it’s tight but it will go. gunnels on fhese DE’s are thick so you’ll prolly need to get some long stainless hardware.

Have decided I’ll go this route. Did you put anything into the holes or under the baseplate to help with keeping moisture out? I have a nice piece of starboard to use as backing as well. I’ve been playing around with positioning of the downrigger and will try to keep them about 4” in front of the cleats. Fairly far back but shouldn’t have any issues getting the release clips with the gaff.

 

[wolf]

I like to mount mid ship so when you get a fish i use swivel base forward so im clear of getting **** tangled and way easier to set gear when you fish sooke areas