Help me spend my money....

[smp747]

I'm about to go hopefully seal the deal on the 24' boat I've had my eye on in a weeks time, the boat is a 1997 and needs a bit of love so I'm wondering what everyone would recommend..

There is no kicker on the boat so I need to get a kicker.. My plan is to get a new Mercury 9.9 Prokicker EFI.
9.9 or 9.9 Command thrust? (think Seasport explorer 2400)

Where should the controls for the kicker be ran to? Is the rear helm satisfactory or should they go to the cockpit? (Both?)

Also what is the best way to tie the kicker into the steering of the I/O main?

Also the boat has no kicker bracket so should I get a rigid one like the Adventure Marine style or a Panther spring loaded retractable style?

High Thrust Outboard Motor Bracket | Adventure Marine MFG

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The electronics are outdated so I was looking to buy 2 of the 9" Lowrance HDS carbons from Cabelas when they come on for $1200 and get a 4G broadband radar as well and run one as a sounder and one as plotter. Perhaps upgrade the transducer and add another in the rear helm in time...
What's the thoughts on this setup? If one is going to buy a new electronics system is there a better entry way to go that can be upgraded later?

Thanks, as always.
WM

 

[chille51]

I got a good deal on the kicker you are looking at through Alberni Power and Marine. Exact model I went with was an XL leg with power start and tilt ME9.9EXLHPTEFIBK. I also went with the fixed bracket, which was the common advice when I asked similar questions about a month ago. And I see why, ESPECIALLY for the EFI. No way I would trust one of the spring loaded ones, especially when trailering. 120lbs or whatever it is doesn't sound that heavy on paper, but it was all I could do to put it on my motor stand by myself. I have a challenging install to do on my boat just because of the way it is built, and what I have to do to get the old kicker bracket off - so still working on it and haven't even run the motor yet.

I just went with tiller controls on mine, but picked up a used pro-troll I intend to use. For steering, I plan on using a bar from the main with quick disconnects. That way I can steer from the helm if I want, or pop the bar off and steer from the stern. I am in a different class size boat than you though, 17.5'. Other options may be better for you.

 

[smp747]

Any other inputs would be greatly appreciated.... thanks in advance

 

[Rayvon]

Get a fixed bracket for sure,you'll regret it if you don't.Don't cheap out on the motor,get the power tilt remote model connected to your hydraulic steering..Steering will be your hardest choice.A Lowrance Autopilot is probably your best long term fix connected to your electronics through a NMEA 2K system.A little spendy,but a Seasport is probably a long term investment,so make it the way you want it.

 

[Flashman]

Kicker control (throttle) will be limited to a single control location. If you plan on doing a lot of trolling, especially by yourself, a rear control location could be good. If you're main engine is the same manufacturer as your kicker, with cable controls, you have the option of installing a dual binnacle inside and running the kicker and main engine throttle controls on one stick each. I did it and love it but I'm a 18' centre console so space wise a second kicker control was never really an option.

Get an EFI kicker with power everything. I have a 2017 carbureted pro kicker 9.9. I have to clean the carburetor if it sits too long without fuel stabilizer. My own fault but annoying.

For electronics, two 9 inch screens makes sense. I had a single 7 for years, not enough screen space. I added a 9 this year, way better. Upgrading isn't a big issue, if you're into decent gear, NMEA 2000 connections etc, whatever you buy for the foreseeable future should be compatible. You will need to pick a brand though. Garmin, Lowrance etc. A lot of the accessories won't be cross compatible, radar etc. Transducers are mainly third party (Airmar) and can usually be adapted by changing the plug on the cable.

For a transducer, depends on your budget. Higher power, high frequency, CHIRP and wide angle are basics to get. Low frequency gives you less detail but greater maximum depth. For almost all BC fishing you want high frequency CHIRP. Medium frequency can be better if you spend a lot of time in inlets with a fresh water layer on top. The salt water fresh water interface can be hard for the high frequency to see past .If you're on a tighter budget, just run whatever comes with the screen. If you want the best, get an airmar B175HW. Transom mounted transducers can work fine but it's very difficult to get them to work at cruising speed. Their performance at anything approaching planning speed is very sensitive to installation details that are hard to foresee and finicky to adjust. A thru-hull is the higher performance option, but it involves taking a larger hole saw to your boat. I upgraded from a TM150M to the B175HW this year. It was worth it for me. Super happy with the thru hull and on screen detail with the B175HW. Also I can track bottom all the way up to cruise speed now.