Fuel economy - inboard vs outboard

You're correct to go with the 300HP then. 500lbs, that's like losing a couple tubby fishing buddies, that will make a difference. Good luck would like to see it finished. Do you live in Nanaimo?
I’m in Victoria. Thanks for the well wishes - I figure it’s gonna take a few months as the local shops are still really busy and I’m not nearly talented enough to take this project on my own.
 
I’m in Victoria. Thanks for the well wishes - I figure it’s gonna take a few months as the local shops are still really busy and I’m not nearly talented enough to take this project on my own.

I'm with you, also had reached out to Tom at Jenkins so I'm going to follow your buuild as well. I always believed until recently that IOs were rated at the crank but I just read a sales doc on my VP 320gxi and it's rated at the shaft. Mine is 320hp with a vortec so yours would be 300bp with the gi. I think that 300 will be great on your boat. You could go 250hp but that 300hp will be a good fit.

On our boat, I wonder if the 300hp will be sufficient and if mercury would only update the 300bp v8 to 350hp it would be game over. I also went through an unplanned repower this year with only 720 hours which ended up expensive AF so my enthusiasm is slightly tempered. How's it going selling the existing lump?
 
Just for fun, I'll tell you that switching my 3000 hr 260 hp Volvo gas engine for an aluminum block 200 hp Volvo D3 diesel, and going from single prop to duo prop, removed nearly 700 lbs from the back end, doubled the fuel economy and range, and sacrificed only about 10% on top end speed [38 mph vs 42]. I cruise 22 to 28, depending on conditions.

The boat is much quicker to plane and will tolerate several large crew in the stern on takeoff [my brothers are both 6'6" with a combined weight over 500 lbs].

Just a different take on repowering.
 
I’m a bit confused and I know this site has tones of real world experience….

I’m podding my 22’boat and replacing the 5.7 Volvo Penta with a new 300hp yammy. I was getting increadable fuel economy from the inboard 5.7 and am expecting comparable economy from the new Yamaha but my mechanic thinks I’ll be burning 2 - 3 times the fuel with the new outboard. Is this right??

Ask @wolf ?
 
I’m using Jenkins in Sooke as they have done a few seasport pods recently and they do quality work. Aluminum powder coated white, full hull extension and getting the doghouse removed. I’ll post a few pics once some work has been completed. Like most of us, this process is completely new to me so I’ve just started removing the old gauges and electrical wiring today and figuring it out as I go. Except for the fuel gauge, I’m guessing this entries mess has to go. Jenkins and SG Power will do all the really hard work :)
Is that 2200 or 2400? With that 300hp make sure you go 4 blade. Check out my Seasport build thread to get some ideas
 
I'm with you, also had reached out to Tom at Jenkins so I'm going to follow your buuild as well. I always believed until recently that IOs were rated at the crank but I just read a sales doc on my VP 320gxi and it's rated at the shaft. Mine is 320hp with a vortec so yours would be 300bp with the gi. I think that 300 will be great on your boat. You could go 250hp but that 300hp will be a good fit.

On our boat, I wonder if the 300hp will be sufficient and if mercury would only update the 300bp v8 to 350hp it would be game over. I also went through an unplanned repower this year with only 720 hours which ended up expensive AF so my enthusiasm is slightly tempered. How's it going selling the existing lump?
Yup we’re in the same boat (pun intended). In the end it will be worth it. The problem going above 300hp is you often have to go up an engine block size with added weight. When is your boat going in?
 
Yup we’re in the same boat (pun intended). In the end it will be worth it. The problem going above 300hp is you often have to go up an engine block size with added weight. When is your boat going in?

I just paid my visa xx,xxx bill for the work this summer and it's running very well, so I'm playing a longer game now. I would have pulled the trigger had I know it would take 13 weeks to repower with a vortec long block but that's life. So, we will figure things out over the winter, push on with this rig or part ways and go into something more purposeful. There are some builders down east in the glass pilot house business I have my eye on, in particular, Northcoast and their 255ht...so we will see how the world is in the next six moths. Cheers and good luck with your build!
 
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Awesome thanks thanks - it’s a 2200. Year 2000. Any words of wisdom?

Nice! Have you considered putting on a Factory POD from PDR. For me it was the only choice, it eliminates the the guess work of engineering the the POD. Watch the weight distribution. Mine is a 2000 as well, do you have side fuel tanks or 1 center tank? These are heavy boats and benefit from lots of lift in the rear, highly recommend the 4 blades.
 
A 250 and 300 Yam weight the same. I have a 2019 F 250 Yam on a 5500lb 22' 8" boat and get 2.6 gph in good seas normal load. It of course gets worse in bad seas. I would have put on a 300 except my plate stated 250 HP max and was concerned about insurance. I will tell you that this motor is more efficient than my old 2003 F 225 by approx 10%. Hard to believe an inboard is burning a third of that fuel burn.
 
Well ill admit it was record time but i asked lots of questions and do NOT go with a step up design as you need more power to keep bow down you want a pod extension. I had Walt bohn do mine and the guy is a wizard. id choose him over anyone he knows his shi! problem is with some builder they make the pod too big and now its turned into a floatation pod and then you have to throw in a bunch of lead to balance it out . As for fuel its basically the same as i went from a duo prop to a duo prop its 10.4 to 11.4 GPH now. If you are going to a single prop main from you DP you will be alot higher up near the 14 GPH mark.
Ill admit was concerned about the whole pod thing as ive been on MANY a boat where it makes the boat tippy or changes the balance if fact with mine it improved it , Didnt need any weight moved or added it was perfect right from the start as you can see on bottom pic it raised the whole boat about a inch.

Fell free to contact me and come look at how this pod was built especially you AB as we basically have the same boat.
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Nice! Have you considered putting on a Factory POD from PDR. For me it was the only choice, it eliminates the the guess work of engineering the the POD. Watch the weight distribution. Mine is a 2000 as well, do you have side fuel tanks or 1 center tank? These are heavy boats and benefit from lots of lift in the rear, highly recommend the 4 blades.
I have the center tank (which I understand is better for cog). I’ve looked a lot at PDR and know they are the factory pods for SeaSport however, their pod is not full transom. My boat feels stern heavy and does take some power to get on plane especially if I have a lot of people and gear inboard. I suspect a hull extension pod will eliminate a few of these issues and help keep the stern out of the water. Good idea on the 4-blade prop!
 
Well ill admit it was record time but i asked lots of questions and do NOT go with a step up design as you need more power to keep bow down you want a pod extension. I had Walt bohn do mine and the guy is a wizard. id choose him over anyone he knows his shi! problem is with some builder they make the pod too big and now its turned into a floatation pod and then you have to throw in a bunch of lead to balance it out . As for fuel its basically the same as i went from a duo prop to a duo prop its 10.4 to 11.4 GPH now. If you are going to a single prop main from you DP you will be alot higher up near the 14 GPH mark.
Ill admit was concerned about the whole pod thing as ive been on MANY a boat where it makes the boat tippy or changes the balance if fact with mine it improved it , Didnt need any weight moved or added it was perfect right from the start as you can see on bottom pic it raised the whole boat about a inch.

Fell free to contact me and come look at how this pod was built especially you AB as we basically have the same boat.
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Awesome wolf. I did get a price on a Zuk dp 300 in Sidney and it was almost $10k more than the yammy. That was pretty much the deciding factor!
 
Only headache your builder will have is the existing drain plug but there are ways around it. full extension is the best option look forward to the results.
 
That’s going to be an awesome rig when you’re done!
You’ll likely see an increase in fuel consumption but it should be mitigated by the full hull extension pod. I concur with those who have recommended the four-blade prop. I have the 17P Powertech OFS4 as recommended to me on this site on my Yamaha 300 and it’s a good match. I burn about 10 gph at 27 mph cruise with a slightly heavier Campion 682 and a not-so-efficient bracket so you should get a bit better economy with yours. I would expect you to get 3 mpg or better trimmed right at your best cruise speed.
 
Awesome wolf. I did get a price on a Zuk dp 300 in Sidney and it was almost $10k more than the yammy. That was pretty much the deciding factor!
the 6 year warranty is what made me go zuk and the thrust washer failing on yammys is no good
 
I have the center tank (which I understand is better for cog). I’ve looked a lot at PDR and know they are the factory pods for SeaSport however, their pod is not full transom. My boat feels stern heavy and does take some power to get on plane especially if I have a lot of people and gear inboard. I suspect a hull extension pod will eliminate a few of these issues and help keep the stern out of the water. Good idea on the 4-blade prop!

I would think long and hard about this decision, Seasport and PDR have installed Pods on hundreds of Seasports and I am pretty sure if there was a significant improvement to be had from full extension pod they would be doing that. Your boat is stern heavy but you have the advantage of the mid ship fuel tank. The guys at PDR are super to talk to, I would give them a call ask them about your concerns step vs full. I bet they have a good reason for building the pods like they do.

I also would think about resale value. If I where looking for a Seasport and saw a non PDR pod I would be wary, I feel better knowing that the performance is known with the PDR pod.

Either way I look forward to seeing your build

I think my only regret with my build was that I had the deck recoated with epoxy paint, and it is not holding up very well. The thing I am most happy about is the Insulated stainless steel fish box I installed.

When your doing your fiber glass work make sure the stringer and back edge of the deck are reinforced. I ended up having to pull everything apart to add three layers of biaxial epoxy reinforcement to all transom connection points.
 
What I meant by full extension is this it follows the bottom of transom all the way back the pod it self is only 26 inchs wide as thats so the steering arm linkage can fit inside un hampered, also its about 3/4 of a inch up from the bottom of transom after talking to a builder I know at Titan boats they found it performed better then flush and my guy totaled agreed. problem with step up after talking to 3 different builders is you need way more HP to keep the bow down as it really wants to "sit " down on butt end on lower RPMs. and anyone who has used the new duo prop LOVES them very easy backing up and gets up on plane FAST.
All I can say is do alot of asking and look at different pods.

Good luck with your added improvements

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