Fiberglass Estimate

[Matthias]

I'm looking to have a minor glass project done to the transom of my boat and am trying to gauge if a quote from my glass guy is realistic.

The situation is: my kicker bracket is mounted to my swimgrid. There is a support arm connecting the swim grid (right under the kicker) to the transom (only 2 screws). Last year while bouncing around offshore, one screw stripped loose and water got in through the hole. I had it patched but it's not a long term solution. I can't bolt it because there is no access to the other side. The true root cause is the design of the kicker bracket - the transom should bear most of the weight rather than the swimgrid, but beefing up the transom and redesigning the bracket will be out of budget for me.

The plan is to seal the screw hole (pictured), glass a block of wood over top to the transom, and fasten the bracket to the this block so that even if the screws do strip, water isn't getting into the boat.

A guy quoted me 10hrs for the glass work. I have limited glassing experience but my immediate reaction was that was high. It's a small project and I can probably get away without doing anything. I just want to make sure I'm not underestimating that time that into something like this
Any help appreciated!

d!

 

[sir-vivor]

Have you tried Marine Tech , it works great and will last !
I'm not a prof fiberglass guy but rebuilt the hull of my prior boat (split keel and put in new stringers) , I could probable get that done it 2 hours or so ( excluding the dry times is what takes time). easy fix, watch a few Youtube videos and ask a few questions on here and you'll get it all done for under $100 bucks easy, its an easy fix (just need a few power tools to make it even faster which you'll see on the videos)

 

[dreddnot]

Best fix would be to get a dowel. Tap it into the hole slightly recessed. Then you could use marine tex / tech like mentioned above. Putty it in and smooth. Then when attaching a wood block (use hardwood) get 4200 / 5200 cut recesses in the back of the block for a mechanical bond. Drill two screw holes in the block and use screws that go into the fiberglass but dont fully penetrate it. The screws are there to hold it in place while the glue dries. Then every few years you can pull the screws and add some 4200 if you like but water wont get in anyway

 

[Matthias]

Best fix would be to get a dowel. Tap it into the hole slightly recessed. Then you could use marine tex / tech like mentioned above. Putty it in and smooth. Then when attaching a wood block (use hardwood) get 4200 / 5200 cut recesses in the back of the block for a mechanical bond. Drill two screw holes in the block and use screws that go into the fiberglass but dont fully penetrate it. The screws are there to hold it in place while the glue dries. Then every few years you can pull the screws and add some 4200 if you like but water wont get in anyway

Thanks for the suggestion. Using a dowel will for sure help with sealing the hole..
How would I pull the screws every few years if the block is glassed onto the transom?
Any insight on how much time this should theoretically take?

 

[Rain City]

Thanks for the suggestion. Using a dowel will for sure help with sealing the hole..
How would I pull the screws every few years if the block is glassed onto the transom?
Any insight on how much time this should theoretically take?

Can you glass in an aluminum or stainless bracket that would allow bolts to be fastened and checked?

 

[dreddnot]

You would be glassing in a block of wood. I would think if you used say 4 screws on a block of would with the 5200 (creates a complete watertight seal on the back). Plus seal the screws. It would hold. Save you the time of glassing. Trim tabs are sealed a similar way you put sealant (small bead) all around and circles around the screw holes and also seal the threads on the screws.

 

[Matthias]

Can you glass in an aluminum or stainless bracket that would allow bolts to be fastened and checked?

Not sure I'm getting what you're saying. Like a metal plate bonded to the transom?

You would be glassing in a block of wood. I would think if you used say 4 screws on a block of would with the 5200 (creates a complete watertight seal on the back). Plus seal the screws. It would hold. Save you the time of glassing. Trim tabs are sealed a similar way you put sealant (small bead) all around and circles around the screw holes and also seal the threads on the screws.

I think we're on the same page. The screws from the arm will go into the block which is glassed to the transom. Those screws can be checked every time the boat is pulled

 

[Rain City]

Not sure I'm getting what you're saying. Like a metal plate bonded to the transom?

I think we're on the same page. The screws from the arm will go into the block which is glassed to the transom. Those screws can be checked every time the boat is pulled

Like a hat track looking thing

 

[Matthias]

Like a hat track looking thing

Oh nice good idea. I'd be concerned about the bond of the metal to the transom since I want to avoid drilling holes. I'll investigate

 

[dreddnot]

Not sure I'm getting what you're saying. Like a metal plate bonded to the transom?

I think we're on the same page. The screws from the arm will go into the block which is glassed to the transom. Those screws can be checked every time the boat is pulled

Yes so this way you could just resin soak the block if you wanted to and even glass it. Then you have the 4 screws that wont strip because its glued as well as held in place with the screws. The resin/glass on the wood would waterproof it. You could skip the glass possibly because hardwood wouldnt really rot but if youre in moorage just glass the block no need to glass to the transom would that work?

 

[Foxsea]

I'm looking to have a minor glass project done to the transom of my boat and am trying to gauge if a quote from my glass guy is realistic.

The situation is: my kicker bracket is mounted to my swimgrid. There is a support arm connecting the swim grid (right under the kicker) to the transom (only 2 screws). Last year while bouncing around offshore, one screw stripped loose and water got in through the hole. I had it patched but it's not a long term solution. I can't bolt it because there is no access to the other side. The true root cause is the design of the kicker bracket - the transom should bear most of the weight rather than the swimgrid, but beefing up the transom and redesigning the bracket will be out of budget for me.

The plan is to seal the screw hole (pictured), glass a block of wood over top to the transom, and fasten the bracket to the this block so that even if the screws do strip, water isn't getting into the boat.

A guy quoted me 10hrs for the glass work. I have limited glassing experience but my immediate reaction was that was high. It's a small project and I can probably get away without doing anything. I just want to make sure I'm not underestimating that time that into something like this
Any help appreciated!

View attachment 77580d!

Forget polyester resin - epoxy is the forever repair.
Cut your block from hardwood and seal it with epoxy resin. Sand the area on the transom where the block will go. Sand the back of the block. Mix up resin and fumed silica filler to a peanut butter consistency. Mask off the transom outside the area, then spread a thin, even layer of the thickened epoxy. Do the same to the back of the block. If you can clamp it in place, great! If not, use a couple of temporary screws into the transom. Wax the screws. Clean up the ooze and keep it neat. Once the epoxy kicks, remove the screws and plug the holes. If you put some mix in a zip lock bag, then into your freezer, you can use it to plug the screw holes later. Lightly sand, then paint for UV protection.

 

[ship happens]

I use that epoxy from system 3 all the time. Mix silica powder in it. For filling holes. Works really nice. Can mix to a consistency of your desire. Mix it up thick and it will stay where you put it on a vertical surface. Epoxy bonds better to wood and other things as well. X2 on epoxy

 

[Foxsea]

I use that epoxy from system 3 all the time. Mix silica powder in it. For filling holes. Works really nice. Can mix to a consistency of your desire. Mix it up thick and it will stay where you put it on a vertical surface. Epoxy bonds better to wood and other things as well. X2 on epoxy

System 3 and West are both good. Don't get the stuff for table tops. Silica powder is a strong filler. As SH says, the bond is much better (when you clean and sand) and the resin is about 35% stronger.