electrical connections

[Sangster21]

Hello all, I am trying to get my boat ready for action. It has sat for probably 5 years, undercover and dry. Nothing looks badly corroded, but I do want to take connections apart sand clean and try make sure we have good connections. What sort of product do you recommend to coat electrical connections on re assembly? Starter wiring, trim tabs, battery (I just bought 2 new ones) connections, fuse panel etc.?
Thanks,
Alan

 

[brutus]

Hello all, I am trying to get my boat ready for action. It has sat for probably 5 years, undercover and dry. Nothing looks badly corroded, but I do want to take connections apart sand clean and try make sure we have good connections. What sort of product do you recommend to coat electrical connections on re assembly? Starter wiring, trim tabs, battery (I just bought 2 new ones) connections, fuse panel etc.?
Thanks,
Alan

Clean and put it back, then spray dialectic grease over it. That’s what I do, every spring

 

[Flashman]

Depends on the application.

I'm cautious with high amperage connections, batteries, starters etc. I've read about major problems with heat/burned connections on high amperage charging systems, where generators are involved etc. I don't have any experience with that stuff though. For batteries etc connections get well cleaned, assembled dry and coated with either grease or sprayed with something like CRC heavy duty corrosion inhibitor or mercury corrosion guard. Both dry to a fairy waxy coating. If it's something like battery terminals in my tiny center console that are likely to get brushed up against occasionally, I'll spray them. Starter connections inside boots in the engine cowling that are unlikely to get touched or looked at, I'll coat the connection with grease and pack the boot as well.

Butt connections I use good quality heat shrink crimp connectors with the heat activated adhesive and assemble them without any coatings. I've been very surprised how well they work. I've got two bilge pumps connected with them. Both sets of connections are regularly submerged and twisted around. Neither has ever failed. One set is 6 years old, the other maybe 4.

Switches, I haven't found a good solution. They're a consumable for me. Maybe if I bought better switches and didn't have them mounted exposed on a center console they'd do better. I've started spraying the back side, connections and body of the switch with the CRC product. Time will tell how well that works.

Fuse panels, never had an issue with corrosion on the blue sea blade fuse block I use. It must stay pretty dry where I've got it. When I remember I coat new ring connectors with dielectric grease. If the connectors are not the adhesive style I'll pack the connector with grease before inserting the wire and crimping.

Trailer and running lights, thick grease on everything metal in the housing. Thicker the coating better.

Data connections for sounders, nmea2000 etc I leave uncoated.

Scotty plugs get packed with grease and sprayed with CRC.

 

[BC Coast Pilot]

Corrosion Block. Supplied with scotty riggers at one time

Amazon.ca

 

[fish brain]

Corrosion Block. Supplied with scotty riggers at one time

Amazon.ca

This on everything. I even put a squirt in my heat shrink before I shrink them

 

[Foxsea]

Many folks believe dielectric grease is a conductance facilitator. It is not. It's a fairly common misconception that dielectric grease is capable of conducting electricity. In actual fact, dielectric grease is a great insulator and so cannot conduct electricity. That's just great for spark plug boots. Not so hot for electrical connectors, terminals, buss bars or battery posts where you want excellent conductance.

For electrical connections you would be well advised to choose a different compound - an electrical contact grease. This is an electrically conductive grease that improves connections and keeps metals free from rust and corrosion. It has been used in the power industry for over 65 years. It prevents corrosion in electrical connectors from low micro-power electronics to high voltage switchgear. Electrical grease also prevents the formation of oxides, sulfides and other corrosion deposits on copper, tin or aluminum connections. It is used where connections are made with dissimilar metals.

The purpose of a electrical contact lubricant is to prevent corrosion and lubricate the connection for easier maintenance. Electrical grease prevents corrosion attack on all metal surfaces. Attack can come from battery acid, acid fumes, salt, moisture and other contaminants in the environment. When this conductive grease is used on any metallic connection, it prevents the formation of oxides, which will cause high resistance, heat and subsequent failures.

Note: image corrected. Thanks, Calmsea for noticing.

 

[Pewpster]

+1 for electrical contact grease. Clean with 99% isopropyl alcohol, and green or brown Scotch Brite. Don't use sandpaper unless it's necessary. if the connections are silver coloured, they have a tin coating that's usually better left on. Coat everything in a thin layer of grease before reassembly.

 

[calmsea]

Many folks believe dielectric grease is a conductance facilitator. It is not. It's a fairly common misconception that dielectric grease is capable of conducting electricity. In actual fact, dielectric grease is a great insulator and so cannot conduct electricity. That's just great for spark plug boots. Not so hot for electrical connectors, terminals, buss bars or battery posts where you want excellent conductance.

For electrical connections you would be well advised to choose a different compound - an electrical contact grease. This is an electrically conductive grease that improves connections and keeps metals free from rust and corrosion. It has been used in the power industry for over 65 years. It prevents corrosion in electrical connectors from low micro-power electronics to high voltage switchgear. Electrical grease also prevents the formation of oxides, sulfides and other corrosion deposits on copper, tin or aluminum connections. It is used where connections are made with dissimilar metals.

The purpose of a electrical contact lubricant is to prevent corrosion and lubricate the connection for easier maintenance. Electrical grease prevents corrosion attack on all metal surfaces. Attack can come from battery acid, acid fumes, salt, moisture and other contaminants in the environment. When this conductive grease is used on any metallic connection, it prevents the formation of oxides, which will cause high resistance, heat and subsequent failures.

Sorry, but this product does NOT conduct electricity - read the description! So basically another dielectric grease.

Amazon.ca

 

[wolf]

Corrosion Block. Supplied with scotty riggers at one time

This stuff is the greastest been using it for years , my radar was acting up took dome off and something plugged the lil drain hole it had and water got trapped in who knows for how long?? so so everything was wet and sticking so got water out etc thought what WTH ill spray the whole entire guts of the radar let it sit for a day. bam radar started up no problems after that and works great been runnig great for years every year take apart and make sure its all good...I use it on everything even my reels

 

[InterMechanico]

Corrosion protection - Fluid Film - It can go on everything and is pretty amazing.

Fluid Film® Aerosol & Non-Aerosol / Bulk - Fluid Film

Get technical information and MSDS sheets for aerosol and non-aerosol versions of our flagship Fluid Film product.

www.fluid-film.com

Electrical connector sealant - Grote Ultraseal

99170 - Ultra Seal - Corrosion Preventative Sealant, 4 oz. (118 ml.) Tube

Grote Industries - Part: #99170 - Ultra Seal - Corrosion Preventative Sealant, 4 oz. (118 ml.) Tube. Good mechanical stability

www.grote.com

Electronics, circuitry, etc - Phillips Maintenance Spray

Multi-Purpose Maintenance 14 oz. Spray Can

Quickly loosens frozen or seized parts|Invades hard-to-reach crevices and creeps through the tightest seams|Displaces moisture|Corrosion Control: Forms a protective thin film barrier to stop oxidation and prevent rust from spreading|Dissolves corrosion oxide - |Maintains lubricity under high...

www.truck-lite.com

 

[Foxsea]

Sorry, but this product does NOT conduct electricity - read the description! So basically another dielectric grease.

Amazon.ca

Yeah, you are right. I was lazy in posting that image. The stuff I've used for years is No-Ox-Id. It is conductive. I finally found this image. It's available at all electrical supply outlets and Amazon. There are other brands, as well. A very small amount is all that's needed to ensure a good connection.

 

[Foxsea]

+1 for electrical contact grease. Clean with 99% isopropyl alcohol, and green or brown Scotch Brite. Don't use sandpaper unless it's necessary. if the connections are silver coloured, they have a tin coating that's usually better left on. Coat everything in a thin layer of grease before reassembly.

Absolutely! Sanding will remove the tin and make things worse.

 

[brutus]

Just so I am clear , diaelectric grease over the connection, not in between big differences, it just protects moisture from getting in, does not help contact. Imo it’s more important to clean the wire connections often then any other crap to put in, make sure you keep it clean, and wires that are old need to be replaced, when you strip it if the copper is black or green , time to replace

 

[Pewpster]

Yeah, you are right. I was lazy in posting that image. The stuff I've used for years is No-Ox-Id. It is conductive. I finally found this image. It's available at all electrical supply outlets and Amazon. There are other brands, as well. A very small amount is all that's needed to ensure a good connection.

This is the best stuff. BC Hydro uses it on pretty much every outdoor electrical connection in substations. I've taken apart stuff that's 50 years old and it's still in good shape.

 

[zurk]

fire up your systems, shoot it with a thermal camera after 10 minutes.
if nothing is getting warm i would just leave it alone. you can make things worse by taking it apart and putting it back together.
i use CRC when putting it together first time and then leave things alone if they arent getting warm.

 

[Foxsea]

Just so I am clear , diaelectric grease over the connection, not in between big differences, it just protects moisture from getting in, does not help contact. Imo it’s more important to clean the wire connections often then any other crap to put in, make sure you keep it clean, and wires that are old need to be replaced, when you strip it if the copper is black or green , time to replace

You're correct about the wire. If you use a small bit of contact (conductive) grease you will never clean or worry about connections again.

 

[Sangster21]

Thanks very much for the input so far. Die electric perhaps to outside but not between mating parts. I also was thinking cleaning mating surfaces with scotch brite rather than abrasive paper. I will search out some no ox for the actual connections.
Thank you,
Alan