Down rigger question.

Wiseguy

Member
Hello there, just wondering about braided line on a down rigger. Do you need to put crimped stoppers on the braid to position your clips and keep them from sliding? If so, are they the same as the ones you use on steel cable? Thanx
 
There are specific stopper beads for braided line, the Scotty boxes indicate which they are. Don't use crimped beads on braided line. I sometimes use a stacking clip (has an extra release clip) to keep my clips from sliding up the downrigger line. The extra release clip is attached to the downrigger line just above the snap clip.
 
You need the red stoppers. Put a couple where you want it to stop then add one just above the clip so it doesn't ride up.
 
Another option is to use a length (~ 5 ft) of heavy tuna cord with Cannonball clip on one end, ball swivel on other. The braid ties directly to the swivel and the swivel acts as the stop. Scotty sells something like this now and a few of our local shops carry them as well. Pretty easy to make it on your own as well. I like then - gives a nice attachement point for clips and easy to handle when needed with the thick cord.
 
Another option is to use a length (~ 5 ft) of heavy tuna cord with Cannonball clip on one end, ball swivel on other. The braid ties directly to the swivel and the swivel acts as the stop. Scotty sells something like this now and a few of our local shops carry them as well. Pretty easy to make it on your own as well. I like then - gives a nice attachement point for clips and easy to handle when needed with the thick cord.

I like Dave Murphy's setup, but I add the red stoppers for stacking 20' up.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=aM1SDq7ruSM
 
I use tuna cord for about 8ft from the cannon ball. I also put two red stoppers up about 10- 15ft. on the braided line, spaced about 2 inches apart. This is where l put the downrigger snap when using two rods. To secure the red snaps in place l use liquid electrical tape or plasti-dip over the stoppers. Takes about 10 min. to dry after application, but they stay put.
 
here is another tip

if your stacking place a stopper at least 6' up from your stacked clip placement

as to why and this applies to High Powers even more so
it give you the stop before the snap clip hits the pulley wheel or giving you a break off


if you use the gangion or tuna chord make them 8' the loop to loop join
will make the stop and still allows the cannon ball to just be in the water

i also run custom extended clip releases
 
Another option is to use a length (~ 5 ft) of heavy tuna cord with Cannonball clip on one end, ball swivel on other. The braid ties directly to the swivel and the swivel acts as the stop. Scotty sells something like this now and a few of our local shops carry them as well. Pretty easy to make it on your own as well. I like then - gives a nice attachement point for clips and easy to handle when needed with the thick cord.

Sorry just corrected that's not what I do should have read ...dont buy it from Scotty or anyone else though major rip off. Buy some of the chord in a spool and make your own... to do them up there not even a few bucks...Most places sell them for like 12 -14 bucks... you can clip to the chord same as wire..If you stack just use two red stopper beads instead of the one yellow one you run for wire. The benefits of buying the chord is you have it on hand and can make up a few of them as spares in case...

I make knot and attach at braid which makes my stop. I only use a sampo swivel connection to cannonball and that is it.. This same conversation has been covered before go onto search and find Owen (Fish assassin) thread on tieing...Lots of good comments there.

Fairly happy with this system easy to use, and quick recovery if you get hung up.
 
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That's what I do ...dont buy it from Scotty or anyone else though major rip off. Buy some of the chord in a spool and make your own... to do them up there not even a few bucks...Most places sell them for like 12 -14 bucks... you can clip to the chord same as wire..If you stack just use two red stopper beads instead of the one yellow one you run for wire. The benefits of buying the chord is you have it on hand and can make up a few of them as spares in case...
On my side of the boat (cause I like to stack) I have approx. 14 to 16ft of chord before the braid-then I never worry-the rigger stops automatically at the loop where the braid joins the chord-if I am stacking the release is taken off and the rest of the chord is raised with the green button. Blow back is not a noticeable problem and it's fool proof-especially if you knot the chord about 5ft from the bottom and then if you make a mistake and go to auto it still stop before the bottom release.
 
On my side of the boat (cause I like to stack) I have approx. 14 to 16ft of chord before the braid-then I never worry-the rigger stops automatically at the loop where the braid joins the chord-if I am stacking the release is taken off and the rest of the chord is raised with the green button. Blow back is not a noticeable problem and it's fool proof-especially if you knot the chord about 5ft from the bottom and then if you make a mistake and go to auto it still stop before the bottom release.

I do same thing just didn't read post above before I blabbed....
 
Wow! Thanx for all the info. Did not realize there are so many different ways to do it. The reason I ask, is when I was out the other day fishing with a new to me down rigger that was spooled with braid. I quickly found out ( forgot to check) there was no stoppers on the braided line. Lol. I have always had steel cable on my down riggers. Done the crimping myself with the Scotty clips on the steel line in the spots I preferred...
 
On my side of the boat (cause I like to stack) I have approx. 14 to 16ft of chord before the braid-then I never worry-the rigger stops automatically at the loop where the braid joins the chord-if I am stacking the release is taken off and the rest of the chord is raised with the green button. Blow back is not a noticeable problem and it's fool proof-especially if you knot the chord about 5ft from the bottom and then if you make a mistake and go to auto it still stop before the bottom release.

I have a bunch of green gangen in different lengths for different situations from 6-30 feet. One rod-6', one rod and with a dummy-12', 2 rods stacked-20', 2 rods with multiple dummies-30'(sockeye). Takes 30 seconds to cut off the braid and tie it back onto the looped end of the gangen. The knot(s) stop the rigger. Red stops work fine too. I hate the double clips for stacking, but I buy them to make two regular clips with old commercial snaps that I got 50 of for $5.00.
 
tubber
put a 3 passes over hand knot in your main downrigger braid form a 4" loop

put a two pass on the free end of your heavy chord and join them loop to loop save you tying knots

with leaving a 4" loop you can even pass a doughnut / weight retriever through
 
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