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SIR
Guest
Cheapest solution would be to keep your foot over it while underway 
Next cheapest solution is to redrill it one size up from original hole and re-revit with corresponding size rivet.
If the rivets aren't completly gone and they are just sweating a little you can often back the rivet on one side and hammer from the other side to tighten them up a tad.
Next cheapest solution is to redrill it one size up from original hole and re-revit with corresponding size rivet.
If the rivets aren't completly gone and they are just sweating a little you can often back the rivet on one side and hammer from the other side to tighten them up a tad.
victoriaboater
Active Member
Pan head machine screw, nut on the inside of the boat, with a little silicone should do the trick. Cost you less than a dollar and 5 mins.
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Pablo2079
Guest
I've got multiple slow leaks in a cartopper. Does anyone know a good way to address these? Or is it time to go out and get a new one?
I've definitely gotten my money's worth out of this boat. Bought it used in the mid 80's. It's been dragged up and down the beach.... over logs. I'm sure that has caused the rivets to losen up. It's a Harbourcraft.
I've definitely gotten my money's worth out of this boat. Bought it used in the mid 80's. It's been dragged up and down the beach.... over logs. I'm sure that has caused the rivets to losen up. It's a Harbourcraft.
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SIR
Guest
I think a rental of a good rivet gun for the day was under $10 and it did literaly take under 5 minutes to do. If you want the repair to last longer do a LIGHT sanding after you drill. I wouldn't put primer on before you rivet but slapping a coat on after couldn't hurt.
I don't think I'd start playing with screws....
I don't think I'd start playing with screws....
islanderguy
Member
If the rivet is totally gone, try using a stainless steel screw with some sicoflex to seal it off. This worked for me in the past without any problems. Grind down the sharp end of course.
Kildonan
Well-Known Member
Pablo, you need sik-a-flex. The tinny owners best friend. I do my boat every couple of years and my tinny was first purchased in the 1950's and has seen hard use. I use a wire wheel on my cordless drill along the seams, then run sik-a-flex along those same seems, all is good afterwards. Seal-All works well too. on a single leaky rivet that is.
sik-a-flex is about 14 bucks/tube and lasts for about 3 years but your mileage may vary depending on use. You can buy it at a few places but Capital Iron always has it.
sik-a-flex is about 14 bucks/tube and lasts for about 3 years but your mileage may vary depending on use. You can buy it at a few places but Capital Iron always has it.
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ratherbefishin
Guest
I used to have a 16 foot riveted aluminum. An oldy but a goody . In the spring, I would fill the boat wiyth water while on the trailer.. wherever I had a leak, i yould mark the spot with a felt pen. The next step is to drill out the rivets, than replace them with a stainless steel bolt and nut sealed with marine caulking. It worked like a charm...
fisherman14
Member
use a CORK hahaha
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redfox13
Guest
well i fixed it. i got a bolt put silicon around the bolt and put it in. it looks like it will work find out this weekend coming up
thanks for all the help
thanks for all the help
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Slay Belle
Guest
I had a missing rivit in a car topper. I didn't notice untill I was out fishing and the water was comming in. I jammed a tiny stick into the hole and broke it off. I replaced the stick almost every season untill I put a dab of JB weld on the cleaned out hole and it has not required attention since. Hey... it worked for me...lol.
saltspringer
Member
Redfox, just saw in the cabela's 2007 Marine catalogue item number SW-01-0655 for $6.99. A fusion bondage epoxy that will repair and waterproof aluminum rivets. Sounds like this might work, certainly cheap. Good luck. Saltspringer
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