Campion explorer fuel tank

[salmonkiller01]

They do great work at E&D. Building my bracket on the seasport.

 

[CatchAll]

I finally finished this project a couple of months ago. It looks ok at a distance in the right light. I started making good progress early in the year, but had to take a few weeks off for a hip replacement. As you can see, I added about 8 inches to the transom and converted my outboard from 20" to 25". I cut through the back skin to do the transom, but if I did it again I would cut in front of the splash well and leave the outer hull intact. People talk like going from the outside will be easier, but I seriously doubt it.

 

[Max123]

Gotta say, total respect for anyone that can take on something like this. I'll do a lot of things myself, but this would have been a 'checkbook project'.

 

[fisherman76]

look so good.

 

[Highland Joe]

If your tank is the same as mine, the picture shows the approximate dimensions. I ended up pulling my tank and bringing it to a local builder to have them duplicate it. I had them build it out of heavier gauge aluminum. There are angle brackets at the front and back so the tank is screwed to the lower deck. Campion threw a few thin pieces of rubber material under the tank, but not enough to keep the tank from rubbing on deck below it because they didn't put anything under the angle brackets. The combination of the tank in a saltwater bilge and rubbing on a rough surface finally did it in. I got some neoprene strips and used 3M 5200 to adhere and seal them to the bottom of the tank. I'm also spacing the angle brackets off the deck. The thicker tank and a bit of air gap should help it last. I understand that some people use coal tar epoxy to completely seal their tank before install. I don't think that will be necessary.

If your tank is the same as mine, the picture shows the approximate dimensions. I ended up pulling my tank and bringing it to a local builder to have them duplicate it. I had them build it out of heavier gauge aluminum. There are angle brackets at the front and back so the tank is screwed to the lower deck. Campion threw a few thin pieces of rubber material under the tank, but not enough to keep the tank from rubbing on deck below it because they didn't put anything under the angle brackets. The combination of the tank in a saltwater bilge and rubbing on a rough surface finally did it in. I got some neoprene strips and used 3M 5200 to adhere and seal them to the bottom of the tank. I'm also spacing the angle brackets off the deck. The thicker tank and a bit of air gap should help it last. I understand that some people use coal tar epoxy to completely seal their tank before install. I don't think that will be necessary.

I have a campion 188 that has a leaky fuel tank. Still have to investigate it. Can you tell me exactly where your tank was leaking and if the original tank had a partition in it?
Cheers.
Joe

 

[CatchAll]

I have a campion 188 that has a leaky fuel tank. Still have to investigate it. Can you tell me exactly where your tank was leaking and if the original tank had a partition in it?
Cheers.
Joe

My tank was leaking on the bottom at the very back. When the factory installed it they only tossed a couple of strips of some king of rubber material under the tank. After it was screwed down the tank could rub on the bottom a little. A little friction and some saltwater finally caused it to pit through. There were a couple of baffles in the tank.

 

[Highland Joe]

My tank was leaking on the bottom at the very back. When the factory installed it they only tossed a couple of strips of some king of rubber material under the tank. After it was screwed down the tank could rub on the bottom a little. A little friction and some saltwater finally caused it to pit through. There were a couple of baffles in the tank.

Thanks for your reply and expertise on the subject. For clarification, when you say back of the tank, I assume it was the end near the transom. I believe my tank is leaking there as well but yet to confirm. So far I have only drained the fuel so that it would not fill the bilge. I am hoping I can repair the tank without having to cut the floor . I may cut an access hole in the top of the tank that I have access to. I will try to find the leak before doing anything that requires cutting.

 

[CatchAll]

Thanks for your reply and expertise on the subject. For clarification, when you say back of the tank, I assume it was the end near the transom. I believe my tank is leaking there as well but yet to confirm. So far I have only drained the fuel so that it would not fill the bilge. I am hoping I can repair the tank without having to cut the floor . I may cut an access hole in the top of the tank that I have access to. I will try to find the leak before doing anything that requires cutting.

Yes, transom end of the tank. The chances of being able to repair it without removing the tank are not good.

 

[Rayvon]

Yes, transom end of the tank. The chances of being able to repair it without removing the tank are not good.

Absolutely,don't even try it,gas fumes are extremely explosive.They have to be purged before any attempt to repair and if it leaks it is very likely going to have to be replaced or it will leak somewhere else.

 

[Highland Joe]

Absolutely,don't even try it,gas fumes are extremely explosive.They have to be purged before any attempt to repair and if it leaks it is very likely going to have to be replaced or it will leak somewhere else.

Yes. You are probably right. I do respect the danger of gas fumes and would purge the tank before attempting any repair. The repair I had in mind would be reinforced epoxy liner with a custom billet access hatch to close the hole required to access the repair. It’s a long shot and will only be viable if the leak is localized and accessible through the access hole. If the tank looks completely corroded inside…it’s a non starter.
How did the replacement of your floor cut-out go? I may end up doing the same!

 

[Rayvon]

Yes. You are probably right. I do respect the danger of gas fumes and would purge the tank before attempting any repair. The repair I had in mind would be reinforced epoxy liner with a custom billet access hatch to close the hole required to access the repair. It’s a long shot and will only be viable if the leak is localized and accessible through the access hole. If the tank looks completely corroded inside…it’s a non starter.
How did the replacement of your floor cut-out go? I may end up doing the same!

I posted it in "what did you do to your boat this week",I'm happy with it.