Campion Explorer 672 Issues

craigbroening said:
Heres some pics from last year, I wont get it back into the water until monday, These pics are befroe the fence was addedView attachment 79543View attachment 79544View attachment 79545
Click to expand...
Hate to say it but trim tabs are not your issue IMO, your sitting heavy on the stern, that swim grid is to low and probably a tad too heavy , 4” too low from what I can see, don’t do anything to your trim tabs it won’t fix your issues. Personally I don’t use my trim tab to get up on plane, just use them to level the boat from side to side, I use the trim on my motor, usually if you need trim tab to get out of the hole your boat is underpowered, IMO. That boat with a 5.7 and duo prop has plenty of power. If it was my boat I would pull off the swim grid off and leave it off. If you really want one try getting one lighter and definitely needs to be up higher then the one you have one. Good luck . I am sure lots will disagree with me but this what I would do 100%. A friend of mine has a 2005 - 682 and been on it 50 plus times , back in fort to big bank and it’s one of the nicest ride in rough water for its size I been on, not sure about the 672 but the hull looks very similar, his is a bit heavy on the stern too, factory pod with a 250 yam
 
I would agree with everyone who says your swim grid is the issue. I also wouldn't touch the trim tabs, making those bigger will not lift you enough to take the low hanging swim grid out of the picture. This is how high a factory installed swim platform is out of the water at rest on a smaller version of a campion than yours. Based on your pictures, yours looks much closer to the water
received_671339600565899.jpeg
 
Buckethead905 said:
As stated by others, start with the tabs fully retracted (level with the bottom of the hull). If your tabs are fully extended like in the photos, it wouldn’t take much for a substantial list to occur with a small difference between the tabs positions. Where are you located? It would be beneficial if one of us could trial the boat with you in perso
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Buckethead905 said:
As stated by others, start with the tabs fully retracted (level with the bottom of the hull). If your tabs are fully extended like in the photos, it wouldn’t take much for a substantial list to occur with a small difference between the tabs positions. Where are you located? It would be beneficial if one of us could trial the boat with you in person.
Click to expand...
All of the people on here love boating. As buckethead said a person with experience would love to seatrial with you. Who does not like a boat ride.
 
I think those that feel your swim platform is too low are likely correct. Along with the fact that you probably are stern heavy as are most fishing boats of that size, with a thousand pounds of engine, kicker, propane bottle, fuel tank, cooler, batteries, etc all in the stern. If you would like to measure from the bottom edge of your swim platform lip to some good reference point ( center of side molding or possibly the lower edge of the side chine), I would make the same measurements on my 682 factory pod to at least give you an idea of where your platform should be. My pod never drags in the water and my boat pops out of the water like a rocket. My stern Weight is less though, with a 300 outboard and I try not to load too much stuff in the stern.
 
Old Fisher said:
I think those that feel your swim platform is too low are likely correct. Along with the fact that you probably are stern heavy as are most fishing boats of that size, with a thousand pounds of engine, kicker, propane bottle, fuel tank, cooler, batteries, etc all in the stern. If you would like to measure from the bottom edge of your swim platform lip to some good reference point ( center of side molding or possibly the lower edge of the side chine), I would make the same measurements on my 682 factory pod to at least give you an idea of where your platform should be. My pod never drags in the water and my boat pops out of the water like a rocket. My stern Weight is less though, with a 300 outboard and I try not to load too much stuff in the stern.
Click to expand...
The last few posts have nailed it. I can only agree and say, once more, stop adding more weight to a small boat. Your boat will then be more enjoyable to operate and more economical, too. If you sh*t-can that platform and fence, then install a swim step mounted higher up the transom, you'd also be doing a very smart thing. Weight at the extremes of a boat, at sides, ends or high up, are exaggerating a lever arm, contributing to instability.
 
Yep just another butt heavy inboard been there done that.

Just giving you in opinion from running and inboard for years. It isn't the platform position it how much is sticks out on back.

My thoughts is you go up on plane and that kicker is torquing down one side, and water goes over platform and pulls it down.

Here is what I would first which is more of a bandage.

First put a hydrofoil on ( I totally recommend them in addition to the tabs regardless). The hydrofoil will shorten your time to get up on plane even more than the tabs, and improve your stability. With both installed you get best of both worlds . These are easy to install and you can get no hole option for less than 200.00.

Next take that heavy cage thing off You don't want additional weight there. Last move any weight up further front to level off the boat. If needed add ballast to your cuddy somewhere. If its leaning on your kicker side counter balance that weight. Also move you batteries to center if you need too.

If that doesn't work next step is to move that platform up. It sounds hard, but even a few inches will help. Way easier than a pod.

BTW is that single tank in middle on boat? If it is I would make sure your it fairly full. That might change things as well.

Good luck.
 
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Was this swim grid on when you bought it? If so, does anyone know if that was a factory option? It looks aftermarket to me, with the length and low mounting positions both working against your favour to begin with. This is before you added the cage, which will exacerbate the drag effect being so far away from the stern of the boat. As well the kicker is now mounted so far away from the stern of the boat, adding to the low in the
water effect.

@Foxsea is on it: "Weight at the extremes of a boat, at sides, ends or high up, are exaggerating a lever arm, contributing to instability".

Mounting things on the roof of an already tippy boat...think of a piano metronome and what happens when you slide the weight upward.


The good news is this that most of this can be corrected, although you may not be able to retain that 4' x 8' swim grid at the back.


IMG_2142.PNG
 
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Aquaholic said:
Was this swim grid on when you bought it? If so, does anyone know if that was a factory option? It looks aftermarket to me, with the length and low mounting positions both working against your favour to begin with. This is before you added the cage, which will exacerbate the drag effect being so far away from the stern of the boat. As well the kicker is now mounted so far away from the stern of the boat, adding to the low in the
water effect.

@Foxsea is on it: "Weight at the extremes of a boat, at sides, ends or high up, are exaggerating a lever arm, contributing to instability".

Mounting things on the roof of an already tippy boat...think of a piano metronome and what happens when you slide the weight upward.


The good news is this that most of this can be corrected, although you may not be able to retain that 4' x 8' swim grid at the back.


View attachment 79561
Click to expand...
"...that 4x8 swim grid".;) My 34 foot boat has a smaller platform! I'll bet the big one is great on the hook, though.
 
Old Fisher said:
I think those that feel your swim platform is too low are likely correct. Along with the fact that you probably are stern heavy as are most fishing boats of that size, with a thousand pounds of engine, kicker, propane bottle, fuel tank, cooler, batteries, etc all in the stern. If you would like to measure from the bottom edge of your swim platform lip to some good reference point ( center of side molding or possibly the lower edge of the side chine), I would make the same measurements on my 682 factory pod to at least give you an idea of where your platform should be. My pod never drags in the water and my boat pops out of the water like a rocket. My stern Weight is less though, with a 300 outboard and I try not to load too much stuff in the stern.
Click to expand...
I will measure this afternoon. Thanks very much. Ill send pics to give reference
 
Aquaholic said:
Was this swim grid on when you bought it? If so, does anyone know if that was a factory option? It looks aftermarket to me, with the length and low mounting positions both working against your favour to begin with. This is before you added the cage, which will exacerbate the drag effect being so far away from the stern of the boat. As well the kicker is now mounted so far away from the stern of the boat, adding to the low in the
water effect.

@Foxsea is on it: "Weight at the extremes of a boat, at sides, ends or high up, are exaggerating a lever arm, contributing to instability".

Mounting things on the roof of an already tippy boat...think of a piano metronome and what happens when you slide the weight upward.


The good news is this that most of this can be corrected, although you may not be able to retain that 4' x 8' swim grid at the back.


View attachment 79561
Click to expand...
Check out the attachment, THis was the brochure for the 99 672 and it had a full length swim grid as an add on with a kicker bracket. I am going to call campion back next week to confirm if it could be stock or not
 

Attachments

I think that swim platform (which is probably about 2.5-3 -x 8) is likely a Campion factory add-on. My buddies old 2004 672
had a very similar looking platform. His was also an inboard.
 
Google shows some 1999 672 models with a similar swim grid but very thin in design, yours seems to have the sides dropped downward 3-4" for some reason. So yours would be effectively lower?

99525177_934.jpgIMG_2142.PNG
 
The Bucket Effect

Your extended swim grid is not a closed design, it is an open design that would be a noticeable anchor or drag/scoop device when turning or getting on plane. The bucket effect would be so strong, I agree with the complete removal of it, try out the boat without out it, and make adjustments from there.

IMG_3373.jpg
 
Yes like a lot of boats a bit butt heavy if anything take that grid off and raise it right under that back lip off the rub rail then you will probably have to get the kicker lower if needed "IF" you really want that thing on it as im sure if its out of alum it doesnt weigh much, but thats thing the way it sits is like a HUGE water scoop . I bet thats where your issues are coming from water under pressure can really create havoc especially in a following sea.
 
Buckethead905 said:
Properly wired trim tabs should actuate opposite to whatever button you’re pressing at the helm. Example.. if you want the starboard bow down, then the port trim tab will be the one to move when you hit the switch.
Click to expand...
Just ran into this issue on my new rig. It really screws you up on the water.
 
1/Your tabs are very small and there's certainly area to add bigger ones. The wider stance they have from c/l on the boat the more effective they will be also.
2/Think about adding weight in the bow, as far forward as you can, bow locker? To offset the weight at the stern and get back on the intended lines with maybe lead or chain in incremental amounts and see how she feels then. I used to move the batteries into the bow but its costly. A bow tank could achieve this also....water is an easy weight to move around as long as the tanks or bladders are full to avoid free surface effect. Without overloading....
3/Yes the swim grid drag is an issue but you can offset it with weight forward until you diagnose it properly (without overloading) can you remove the kicker also?
 
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