Braid vs wire cable drag

el.Pereh

Well-Known Member
I'm trying braid out on one of my downriggers and have noticed that the cable angle is different at the same speeds (when at similar depths). I use my cable angles to judge the actual speed of the gear. Do those who run braid keep their cable angles steeper?
 
yes i do tend to run my braid a little steeper due to its smaller diameter. of course that depends on the depth your running your balls at. What size DR lead are you using? I use 15's and i think the vast majority of the drag is on the ball and not the line. here in CR we often fish below 200' so any help with lowering the drag helps. i think the positives with braid far out way the negatives.
 
Most of the braided lines are narrower in diameter than wire therefore reducing "blowback"
I was using 200lb Powerpro but switched to 150lb on one side which seems ample.
I find it difficult to gauge depth by angle of wire. Currents,wind etc. all have a bearing in the angle
of the line.
 
Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I believe the Scotty brand braid has the same diameter as the Scotty brand stainless cable.

I know a lot of guys use PP because it is cheaper, but if you are looking for the same "blowback" that you are used to with SS, this may be a good option.

I will be putting Scotty brand braid on the 1106's this off season.
 
Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I believe the Scotty brand braid has the same diameter as the Scotty brand stainless cable.

I know a lot of guys use PP because it is cheaper, but if you are looking for the same "blowback" that you are used to with SS, this may be a good option.

I will be putting Scotty brand braid on the 1106's this off season.

The Scotty braid is lower diameter than cable. It provides less drag which is one of the primary reasons for running it.
 
We run 150LB PP, and it definitely runs deeper then cable for the same weight. One other advantage is it won't cut mono like steel does, we had a 31lb chinook run under the boat in front of the rigger then around the braid and run another couple hundred feet. In the end we got it in but the mono needed to be replaced, better than the instant snap of mono on steel.
 
Correct me if I am wrong...but why would you run your braid at a steeper angle or troll faster to achieve the same angle as you would have with cable?
Are you not actually going faster than you would with cable to ensure your gear is working properly by trying to achieve the same angle?
I would think that because of the lesser amount of drag the blowback would be less, therefore trying to achieve the "cable angle" would be the wrong speed...I would think that you would need to learn your braid angle in relation to your speed to ensure your gear is working correctly??

I have been toying with the idea of braid but am a bit of an "old school" kinda guy...
 
Other primary uses include "helps combat electrolysis around your fishing gear"

and

As, DMC says, it doesn't destroy mono like cable does.

Does anyone know if the 250lb HD braid is similar in diameter to the cable? - nowhere on this specific product does it advertise low drag... may be where the confusion is coming from.
 
I would think that because of the lesser amount of drag the blowback would be less, therefore trying to achieve the "cable angle" would be the wrong speed...I would think that you would need to learn your braid angle in relation to your speed to ensure your gear is working correctly??

I pay more attention to my GPS for correct speed.
where we fish it's more important to keep in contact with the bottom
and not about the angle of DR line.
 
I usually try to have my cable angle around 45 degrees to make sure your gear is working at the correct effective speed underwater vs overland speed (not for depth judgement). I'll move to 15lbs balls and see if that helps.
 
As others have said cable angle is not really the issue, speed relative to the water is what matters for proper action on the lure. This is better measured with either paddle wheel style speed indicator OR by engine RPM. Speed on the GPS is speed over ground (SOG) which includes contributions due to current. I use RPMs on the engine to estimate the speed relative to water (e.g. I know what RPMs correspond to what speed relative to the water from experience). Cable angle depends on too many factors to be useful especially if you fish at a variety of depths. I run my riggers at depths ranging from 25' (for coho) to as much as 400' (for springs in deep water). Drag increases with increasing cable length so cable angle is different for different depths. Drag is also dependent on the lure/flasher combination and on the line on the fishing reel. So cable angle varies depending on what you're running. So cable angle is IMHO not that useful an indicator.
 
I use a number of indicators to judge my speed. Firstly what type of gear am I running and which species of salmon am I targeting. I take into consideration the depth I am fishing, which way the current is running, the direction of the wind, the cable angle, speed over ground, the speed other successful anglers are using, and the general "feel" of the speed I am going. I find that you do better when you take a number of things into consideration.
h.e.h.
 
Have to agree that cable angle is not all that useful in high current locations such as JDF as a stand alone indicator. At best it is a bit of a crude indicator which is somewhat useful at times and has become a bit of a myth from back in the days when everyone was standardized on manual blue riggers and 10lb balls and it worked best as an indicator in low current. If I run a 20 lb ball on one side and a 10 on the other side and blow back has the 10 side way up and the 20 is almost straight down do you speed up or slow down because you are never going to get them both to 45 degrees. The same issue if one side is down 160 feet with all the blowback and the other is down only 30 feet.

My chart plotter has a transom mounted speed through water sensor as well as displaying the speed over ground derived from the gps data and you can compare the two which can be useful. For fishing I agree with Seadna that it is the speed through the water that is the more important, at least in terms of bait/lure action. On the other hand it is the speed over ground that will get you covering territory and moving forward going into a strong current.

There are a lot of variables related to correct speed in a given fishing situation.
My impression is that really experienced sport fishermen don’t give it a lot of conscious thought, they just know when they are in the zone for the circumstances. I suspect their brains calculate all the changing variables almost subconsciously based on years of experience and they adjust as necessary without a lot of thought and when conditions are bad it may be finding the best compromise or changing lure types.
 
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I've got some braid that has more drag than the steel, which is kind of annoying. Think I bought the heaviest stuff I could find, which besides the drag issue kind of worries me as it doesn't break which means something else might.
 
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