Bottom coating - what would you do?

gvh

Member
Trying to research the best solution for bottom coating a Pursuit 325. it’s in the water from May to September but not used for a couple of weeks at a time. It is stored on a trailer off season and can be pulled to pressure wash. Anyone have an opinion on using a hard epoxy to keep performance or just go with Interlux ablative product?
 
i do 8 coats of interprotect 2000e alternating grey/white.
then slap any cuprous oxide based antifoul on top of that.
 
Like Ship Happens said

I’ve been using this for 30 years with the same time frame as you
 

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interprotect 2000 to protect from osmotic blistering, micron CSC for the win. My understanding is the hard epoxy is only to be used if the boat is kept in the water indefinitely. If it’s put on a trailer for any length of time the paint oxidizes and loses its effectiveness. With the ablative CSC the oxidized layer is easily pressure washed/lightly scuffed, or just run through the water to reactivate its antifouling properties.
 
The reason you do barrier coat is for adhesion. The bottome paint needs to stick and not create a mess for the years to come. I can give you a number to call on paint adhesion. Be prepared to take hours out of your life. Don't know how many I've Givin up
 
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The reason you do barrier coat is for adhesion. The bottome paint needs to stick and not create a mess for the years to come. I can give you a number to call on paint adhesion. Be prepared to take hours out of your life. Don't know how many I've Givin up

Sorry but this is bad information. Have you read the technical data sheets and brochure on interprotect2000? Yes it is a “primer” but its main function is not to promote adhesion. It is to prevent osmotic blistering. Also, when applying an epoxy barrier coat, the only situation it would have better adhesion properties is if you follow the technical data sheet and apply your bottom paint during the barrier coats cure time, which is referred to as a “hot coat” creating a chemical bond between the bottom paint and the barrier coat. If the barrier coat is left to dry, then you must sand it down with 80 grit prior to your application of your chosen bottom paint, which is the same surface preparation of a bare hulls gel coat. Here is the technical data sheet on the product you’re speaking about. (See below) Properly prepped gel coat that has been sanded adequately and had all surface contaminants removed will not create a mess for years to come, it’s all in the preparation.

 
There's alot of products out there. I wasn't referring to any "one " product. However adhesion is 100 percent important no matter what. Think you took that out of context
 
Sorry but this is bad information. Have you read the technical data sheets and brochure on interprotect2000? Yes it is a “primer” but its main function is not to promote adhesion. It is to prevent osmotic blistering. Also, when applying an epoxy barrier coat, the only situation it would have better adhesion properties is if you follow the technical data sheet and apply your bottom paint during the barrier coats cure time, which is referred to as a “hot coat” creating a chemical bond between the bottom paint and the barrier coat. If the barrier coat is left to dry, then you must sand it down with 80 grit prior to your application of your chosen bottom paint, which is the same surface preparation of a bare hulls gel coat. Here is the technical data sheet on the product you’re speaking about. (See below) Properly prepped gel coat that has been sanded adequately and had all surface contaminants removed will not create a mess for years to come, it’s all in the preparation.

Interlux promotes Interprotect as an adhesive coat and recommends that you apply the anti-fouling paint while the primer is still reactive to prevent flaking. If you allow a full cure, you were not paying attention. On older boats, where blistering was a problem, a barrier coat may help only IF the blisters were properly repaired. Otherwise, save your money.
 
Interlux promotes Interprotect as an adhesive coat and recommends that you apply the anti-fouling paint while the primer is still reactive to prevent flaking. If you allow a full cure, you were not paying attention. On older boats, where blistering was a problem, a barrier coat may help only IF the blisters were properly repaired. Otherwise, save your money.
Evidently you didn’t even read my post. The reason those boats had blisters was due to the fact that they never had a barrier coat in the first place. Gel coat today has the same osmotic principles that it had 30 years ago, which if you didn’t know, gel coat is porous and is by no means impenetrable to water ingress. If you did read my post you would see the part where I mentioned a chemical bond between the barrier coat and the bottom paint which is only obtained when the barrier coat is tacky, known as a “hot coat” which I explained in my post. I also mention the steps you would take if you in fact did let the barrier coat fully cure, which to reiterate to you, in case you didn’t read what I wrote, would be to sand down the cured barrier coat with 80 grit and then coat with your bottom paint, creating a mechanical bond. I know reading and retaining a small post can be overwhelming, so I won’t assume you actually read the technical data sheet either. Check it out, you might learn something. :)
 
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Evidently you didn’t even read my post. The reason those boats had blisters was due to the fact that they never had a barrier coat in the first place. Gel coat today has the same osmotic principles that it had 30 years ago, which if you didn’t know, gel coat is porous and is by no means impenetrable to water ingress. If you did read my post you would see the part where I mentioned a chemical bond between the barrier coat and the bottom paint which is only obtained when the barrier coat is tacky, known as a “hot coat” which I explained in my post. I also mention the steps you would take if you in fact did let the barrier coat fully cure, which to reiterate to you, in case you didn’t read what I wrote, would be to sand down the cured barrier coat with 80 grit and then coat with your bottom paint, creating a mechanical bond. I know reading and retaining a small post can be overwhelming, so I won’t assume you actually read the technical data sheet either. Check it out, you might learn something. :)
Get your head out of your bucket!
There is no thinking man that would let the prime coat cure fully, if they wanted the best job. Read the manufacturer's directions, like I did, before applying. Saves a lot of extra work, sanding and you have a chemical bond.

Update to 2023:
Manufacturers switched decades ago, to vinylester resins, which have almost no blistering issue, when compared to the earlier polyester products. Most of the blistering problems date from the OPEC embargo of the mid '70s. Because of a shortage of US made resin, manufacturers switched to off-shore sources, which were much more prone to blistering.

The "barrier coat" function is added insurance but the primary purpose is for chemical adhesion. Your sarcasm is now ironic and you are exposed as another armchair "expert." I quickly dismissed your post as being significantly erroneous. Keep up, now!
 
Get your head out of your bucket!
There is no thinking man that would let the prime coat cure fully, if they wanted the best job. Read the manufacturer's directions, like I did, before applying. Saves a lot of extra work, sanding and you have a chemical bond.

Update to 2023:
Manufacturers switched decades ago, to vinylester resins, which have almost no blistering issue, when compared to the earlier polyester products. Most of the blistering problems date from the OPEC embargo of the mid '70s. Because of a shortage of US made resin, manufacturers switched to off-shore sources, which were much more prone to blistering.

The "barrier coat" function is added insurance but the primary purpose is for chemical adhesion. Your sarcasm is now ironic and you are exposed as another armchair "expert." I quickly dismissed your post as being significantly erroneous. Keep up, now!
You totally nailed it, I haven’t been out of my armchair lately! There is so much bad misinformation spewed on this site to vulnerable people that are genuinely looking to be lead in the right direction. Most of the time I don’t have the energy to even say anything because it ends up with clowns like you in the mix. Most things people post are a matter of their own opinion and those same individuals never have any validity behind their suggestions when asked to elaborate or show any proof.
 

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You totally nailed it, I haven’t been out of my armchair lately! There is so much bad misinformation spewed on this site to vulnerable people that are genuinely looking to be lead in the right direction. Most of the time I don’t have the energy to even say anything because it ends up with clowns like you in the mix. Most things people post are a matter of their own opinion and those same individuals never have any validity behind their suggestions when asked to elaborate or show any proof.
Here's the proof you requested from Interlux:

Applying InterProtect 2000E Primer and Micron Antifouling Paint
1. Using a 3/8” nap roller, apply 1 coat of reacted InterProtect 2000E Kit by roller, ensuring that all areas have been covered with the primer. Apply one heavy coat, so you cannot see the gelcoat.
2. Allow the InterProtect 2000E Kit to dry until it is "thumb print tacky" before applying the antifouling paint. Do not let it dry more than ‘tacky’.
3. Using a 3/8” nap roller apply the 1st coat of Micron® Antifouling onto areas that have been covered with the InterProtect 2000E Kit.
Ensure that the first coat of Micron Technology or other compatible Interlux antifouling is applied while InterProtect 2000E is still thumb print tacky. Refer to overcoating chart on page 8.
 
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