Bauer Prawn trap question
- Thread starter twogone
- Start date
sly_karma
Crew Member
Scent attracts them. Once in, they don't get out.
Those traps aren't cheap but they'll pay for themselves over just one season by not paying for icky, fed on sh*t farmed shrimp from SE Asia. The construction quality and design detailing on the Bauer traps is excellent, a single bungee releases and closes both the bait well and the hatch used to empty the catch. That well also nicely holds a 5 lb square weight below the bait cup and is sized just right for cat food cans. Pay attention to location, current and wind, and use appropriate weights, and you'll never need to buy another trap. I have the 24" because that was all that was available when I bought, but the 18" would be fine and take up less space in a smaller boat.
Those traps aren't cheap but they'll pay for themselves over just one season by not paying for icky, fed on sh*t farmed shrimp from SE Asia. The construction quality and design detailing on the Bauer traps is excellent, a single bungee releases and closes both the bait well and the hatch used to empty the catch. That well also nicely holds a 5 lb square weight below the bait cup and is sized just right for cat food cans. Pay attention to location, current and wind, and use appropriate weights, and you'll never need to buy another trap. I have the 24" because that was all that was available when I bought, but the 18" would be fine and take up less space in a smaller boat.
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Foxsea
Well-Known Member
Good advice! Definitely weigh your traps down, otherwise you're wasting your time. I mix Carlyle cat food with pellets. After 2 hours soaking, pull your traps. If you have little to nothing, move.
sly_karma
Crew Member
I'll give a new spot 45 minutes. If there's nothing much by then, move on. My usual MO in summer is to leave traps overnight then come out about an hour and a half before a tide change, lift traps, empty and re-bait. Then go fishing for an hour or so either side of the slack tide. Come back after 2-2.5 hours, lift and cycle the traps again before heading home. I haven't observed much difference in catch between overnight soak and the 2-ish hour soak. Prawns are quite mobile, if they're around and your bait has a scent they like, they'll quickly find your traps. I like the time and fuel efficiency of two full trap cycles in a single outing - and hopefully some salmon to go with the prawns and shrimp.
Can someone tell me if rot cord/escape doors are required on sport traps ?
Aquaholic
Crew Member
I have contacted Bauer directly with a question before, and he was more than willing to give suggestions. He would also know the rot cord requirements if any.
Whole in the Water
Well-Known Member
Didn't think prawn traps needed them, crab traps do. Anyone know if rot cords are required on prawn traps??
Thanx for the reply....I know it's a requirement on commercial traps
Thank you a very much for your sound advice. I have learned the traps I bought are knock-offs but apparently they fish just as well as the Bauer traps but don't last as long without good care. I had a suspicion because the price was less than half.
I have been told it will keep the prawns from looking for a way out if they have something to munch on. What do you think about some solid bait (a piece of fish or ???) on top of the bait jar (when the trap is upright)?
I have been told it will keep the prawns from looking for a way out if they have something to munch on. What do you think about some solid bait (a piece of fish or ???) on top of the bait jar (when the trap is upright)?
ship happens
Crew Member
They do yes. To my knowledge. And they should
As far as I know, prawn traps do not need rot cord because there is a way out and once the attractant is used up the prawns won't go in it any more. Crab traps however have no escape route and continue to fish (crabs will go into a crab trap to feed on dead crabs or fish that have starved to death in there) so there must be a way to stop that, hence the requirement for rot cord on crab traps.
Another question from a prawner newbie; If the Bauer style traps need some weight (as suggested above) do you think some gill net lead line zip tied around the inside edges of the trap would work? I think a couple of wraps would make the 5 lbs suggested. I have done this with my old net style prawn traps and it seemed to work.
Aquaholic
Crew Member
some used galvanized anchor chain zap strapped to the bottom edges. However if they move or make noise it might spook them, but I am not sure. Noise and movement is what some people say spook the prawns away, suggesting the Bauer style solid traps out fish the net style that move in the currents.
Corey_lax
Crew Member
I have square 5 lb weights that fit in the bait cup. https://westcoastfishingtackle.ca/products/prawn-trap-coated-weight?variant=32780313002038
Now there's a great idea; I have tons of lead and a melting pot; I may just try that, thanks!
Aquaholic
Crew Member
would you be ingesting lead though? Bait in the cups leaking over the lead and then the prawns feed on it?
The Green Bastard
Active Member
This is what I did. I zip tied it to the bottom on the inside of the trap. Use enough ties and it doesn't move at all
Maybe I will just go with the gill net led line; it's nylon coated and the bait & prawns won't get near the actual lead.
Good point Aquaholic!
Corey_lax
Crew Member
Plastidip spray works well to cover up exposed lead. I just bought the nice ones though. Also, using a clip on ball weight as an anchor on the line 10-20’ in front of your top traps helps them from bouncing around when the bouy is getting rocked by waves
