Battery Life?

[daddystoy]

Excellent info StriperChief! I am in the process of re-wiring my boat and have done most of what you suggested except for the soldering of joints. I crimp and heat shrink all connections. I guess soldering would be an added improvement but I keep thinking that it would make the joint (connection) extra stiff and possibly make it "brittle". I know there is a reason for the soldered joints but I will stick with the crimp and heat shrink. My boat has a very simple electrical system being just an 18.5' Double Eagle with the basic electrical stuff.

Couple of questions: What brand of AGM batteries would you recommend and where would you suggest to buy them? ( Lower mainland area. Polar Batteries?)
In Gungadin's post he talks about overcharging AGM batteries and regulated charging systems, does this mean an alternator i.e. off an I/O set up?

Thanks in advance for any replies.

 

[StriperCheif]

Excellent info StriperChief! I am in the process of re-wiring my boat and have done most of what you suggested except for the soldering of joints. I crimp and heat shrink all connections. I guess soldering would be an added improvement but I keep thinking that it would make the joint (connection) extra stiff and possibly make it "brittle". I know there is a reason for the soldered joints but I will stick with the crimp and heat shrink. My boat has a very simple electrical system being just an 18.5' Double Eagle with the basic electrical stuff.

Couple of questions: What brand of AGM batteries would you recommend and where would you suggest to buy them? ( Lower mainland area. Polar Batteries?)
In Gungadin's post he talks about overcharging AGM batteries and regulated charging systems, does this mean an alternator i.e. off an I/O set up?

Thanks in advance for any replies.

With the soldering I meant just solder the end of the wire, the end that goes into the crimp or the connector, then insert it into the crimp and then crimp and then tag the crimp/solder connection with a touch of the solder gun to set it and shrink wrap, not actually solder the wires together, sorry for the misunderstanding.
As for which one is best. There are only a few manufacturers that make Batteries. They make them under contract for different dealers or companies and then the dealer supplier put their brand stickers on them. Any company can have a bad batch. I would be more concerned about the warranty offered from the seller you buy it from and the replacement guarantee service etc. and someone close to where you live.
As far as for over charging them I think he meant rectified vs. regulated charge. The issue is float charging them, they don’t like to be left on a float charger like a lead acid battery, and there is no need. They can sit for months and won’t loose their charge or sulphate like lead acid ones which is the big issue with lead acid. Lead acid batteries last longer if used and not allowed to sit for months as material held in suspension in the acid between the plates collects in the bottom shorting the plates and sulphating where as AGM’s don’t mind i.e. the glass mat between the plates.
Rectified is straight stator current off the outboard which can get like he said 16 or 17 volts and fluctuates with engine rpm re trolling low voltage, full speed high voltage. It would be hard to overcharge one unless you left it for many hours. Most regulated current is 14.5 volts. AGM batteries should be about 2.4 volts per cell charging and a bit less when they are warm. They charge up to 5 times faster which is ideal. Keep them away from the engine and cool, they don’t like heat. Alternators have regulated current and with most new electronic outboards the ECM will regulate the stator current at 14.5 volts at all rpm so you don’t have to worry about over charging them that way. Absorbed mat glass batteries won’t boil and leave the plates exposed which is another inefficiency with lead acid batteries. Extreme Vibration also is not good for lead acid batteries, hard to avoid that in a boat and it accelerates the process of shedding material from the plates. It falls down between the plates and interferes with charging and discharging

 

[daddystoy]

Thanks again for the info. I will have to try soldering a crimp to see what that is like.

 

[StriperCheif]

Thanks again for the info. I will have to try soldering a crimp to see what that is like.

Tin the wire first slip it in crimp it then tag the part where the wire exits the connector, just lightly. don't hold it on. a couple tags add a bit of solder tag again. I guess the best hint i could give you would be to touch the wire and the crimp at the same time. not just the crimp you'll never get enough heat to melt the solder on the wire that way without burning the insulation, a good connection will give you about .4 to .5 ohms depending on how long the wire is.
That's the old school way the new way is to use sealed solder connectors. Found this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d83XuNDnHLI .....put a little electrical grease on the male and female tangs when connecting ,helps with the corrosion too and ensure good connectivity. Have fun.

 

[Canso]

Service bulletin from ford and gm say not to use solder when crimping wires together. Apparently it creates a week spot where the solder ends. They suggest a crimp and heat shrink.