Battery Life?

[BeezNuts84]

Hi There!!

First post for me (please excuse the grammar)

I just bought a boat that has 2 batts with a switch over dial (1+2,1,2)
It has a stereo, gps and elect downriggers.. It has a kicker WITHOUT the charging capabilities.
Does anyone know how long one new batt should last while trolling with all functions operating?(Ballpark)
and how long it will take my big engine to charge?
I would just like to know how long until I need to fire up my big engine for a charge..

I thought some of you beauts would have an idea.

Cheers

Beez.

 

[banger17]

I have a very similar set-up, and I troll for hours on end without worry. I generally replace the batteries before i need to, but i dont seem to have an issue trolling and using the riggers and stereo off the battery.

not sure how much/long you have to run the big engine to actually "charge" the battery anyhow... thoughts?

 

[Gear'n'beer!]

Hey beez, really depends on many factors, what your draw is, what your batteries are, and how much output your alt on your main is. For example if you have an I/O the alternator puts out a pretty good amperage. Larger outboards also put out good amps. Smaller ob's put out very small amperage, kickers with charging capabilities are very low. Most newer plotter sounder units will tell you battery strength. But as long as you have two batts with one isolated your always fine anyway.

 

[Kato]

Hi There!!

First post for me (please excuse the grammar)

I just bought a boat that has 2 batts with a switch over dial (1+2,1,2)
It has a stereo, gps and elect downriggers.. It has a kicker WITHOUT the charging capabilities.
Does anyone know how long one new batt should last while trolling with all functions operating?(Ballpark)
and how long it will take my big engine to charge?
I would just like to know how long until I need to fire up my big engine for a charge..

I thought some of you beauts would have an idea.

Cheers

Beez.

My boat has one battery, kicker with a charging system. I have run my battery flat in about 10 hours on anchor.
I am pretty sure it is my big lowrance LCX27 fish finder with the big cooling fins.
I leave this unit off and problem solved.

 

[spring fever]

Lots of people have already told you it depends on your draw from all your various "appliances" . I personally would look at them all and try and minimize them.. I would have both batteries checked to make sure there is not a weak one and then I would have a strict regime of only trolling on one and isolating the other. probably alternating them. To not do something like this is to court disaster and I would always carry a long set of jumpers. Tight lines.

 

[fogged in]

Your battery will not run long if you are running two or three downriggers off it and you are into Pinks and Coho, especially if you are fishing off shore running deep lines!
Generally speaking, you may be ok for 3 or 4 hours.
Charging with your big motor is really not a great option, but a 10 - 15 minute run every hour will definitely help.
I would seriously think about trading in your kicker for one with a charger!

 

[Fishtank]

What kind of kicker do you have my yamaha originally didn't have a charging system, I got one added very cheap

 

[BeezNuts84]

What kind of kicker do you have my yamaha originally didn't have a charging system, I got one added very cheap

I've got a 4-stroke Yamaha 8hp (not high thrust)


Thanks for all the info!

 

[gungadin]

A charging system can be added, but it only puts out about 5amps. Two types can be put on, one with just a rectifier, which basically uses the battery as the regulator, voltage can be as high as 16- 17 volts. In actual use though it barely exceeds 15 v if you use it just to troll. I use this type, and have never had a problem. Yours must be a manual start, so you shouldn't get stranded. The other type incorporates a voltage regulator as well, they both get warm, the voltage regulator more so. Do a search on here, there should be lots of info.

 

[Bait&Sea]

I put a new commercial group 27 in my boat a couple years ago and only have a one battery system. The battery is always on one of these chargers when not in use, http://smartercharger.com. I run two HP riggers in the chuck while trolling on my main and have gone a week without any trouble. I also use a power windlass while in the river and can sit for many hours sometimes with lights/sounder/stereo on and have never had a problem. My Optimax needs a very healthy electrical system for cranking and running. I think these chargers are well worth the money as the battery will be charged to 98% capacity most of its life.

 

[Gear'n'beer!]

I put a new commercial group 27 in my boat a couple years ago and only have a one battery system. The battery is always on one of these chargers when not in use, http://smartercharger.com. I run two HP riggers in the chuck while trolling on my main and have gone a week without any trouble. I also use a power windlass while in the river and can sit for many hours sometimes with lights/sounder/stereo on and have never had a problem. My Optimax needs a very healthy electrical system for cranking and running. I think these chargers are well worth the money as the battery will be charged to 98% capacity most of its life.

Hey bait&see, how much did that smart charger run ya? Looks like a better idea than my current set up of just checking batts in my fleet. Will definitely pay for itself. I have 9 up here right now between tractor, rv, boats and 2 vehicles.

 

[daddystoy]

NOT being an electrical expert the one thing I learned from going to a seminar talk at the boat show this year put on by Jeff Cote from PYS (pacific yacht systems) who is an electrical expert is that he REALLY likes AGM batteries. They are twice the cost of regular flooded lead acid batteries but they should last twice as long. I am not going to try and explain them but basically they are very good for both starting and deep cycle batteries. I will probably switch to them when my batteries die. They are also maintenance free.

 

[Hit em Hard]

It is my understanding that if you are running with your battery switch on say battery 1 and the motor is running it is not a good idea to switch to battery 2 or both. Is this true?

h.e.h.

 

[bigbruce]

Guest switches are "make before break" which means when you switch from 1, to 2 or to both when the engine is running, the switch "makes" the new connection before it "breaks" the old - so you're OK. Just don't pass the "off" point when you make the switch. Perko switches may be the same.

 

[spring fever]

Guest switches are "make before break" which means when you switch from 1, to 2 or to both when the engine is running, the switch "makes" the new connection before it "breaks" the old - so you're OK. Just don't pass the "off" point when you make the switch. Perko switches may be the same.

X2 I think BB has the right of it-if not- always willing to listen!!

 

[Hit em Hard]

Guest switches are "make before break" which means when you switch from 1, to 2 or to both when the engine is running, the switch "makes" the new connection before it "breaks" the old - so you're OK. Just don't pass the "off" point when you make the switch. Perko switches may be the same.

Good to know. thanks bigbruce.

h.e.h.

 

[Bait&Sea]

Hey bait&see, how much did that smart charger run ya? Looks like a better idea than my current set up of just checking batts in my fleet. Will definitely pay for itself. I have 9 up here right now between tractor, rv, boats and 2 vehicles.

A few models to choose from but mine is ctek3300 and it was 60bucks on sale regular 90ish

 

[Canso]

It is my understanding that if you are running with your battery switch on say battery 1 and the motor is running it is not a good idea to switch to battery 2 or both. Is this true?

h.e.h.

Mine is wired so when the engine is running, both batteries are charging, but when you turn the engine off, you draw from the battery that is selected on the switch.

On my other boat I use a smart solenoid that makes and breaks contact between batteries at 12.7volts. No switches and easy to wire.

 

[gungadin]

NOT being an electrical expert the one thing I learned from going to a seminar talk at the boat show this year put on by Jeff Cote from PYS (pacific yacht systems) who is an electrical expert is that he REALLY likes AGM batteries. They are twice the cost of regular flooded lead acid batteries but they should last twice as long. I am not going to try and explain them but basically they are very good for both starting and deep cycle batteries. I will probably switch to them when my batteries die. They are also maintenance free.

AGM batteries are great, but they have one fault, they do ñot like being overcharged. They are the answer if your charging system is regulated, but if you are only using a rectifier, the voltage could get too high and will shorten the batteries life.

 

[StriperCheif]

My two cents .... I have worked as a marine engineer for 36 years ....The best batteries are the Pure Lead AGM batteries which are without the common impurities of alloyed lead and the increased surface area of the thinner plates of regular AGM ones or lead acid. There is no comparison between regular lead acid and agm batteries. AGM batts charge much much quicker last waay longer, can go months with out charging, you can run them down and not hurt them unlike lead acid ones that basically deteriorate from day one. The old lead acid batteries also acid "mist" during charging and discharging. This leads to the corrosion of their terminals, we have all seen that ie high resistance and reduced conductivity. There is no hydrogen gas from AGM either and no maintenance . AGM material has an extremely low electrical resistance, the battery delivers much higher power and efficiency than other battery types. The best feature in my opinion out on the water is the faster recharge and no current limitations with voltage regulated recharging. Yes they cost more but what doesn't, but they last for years no corrosion and they hold voltage. A good battery should have 13.2 to 13.6 volts new and fully charged. Check the voltage at your fuse box connection it should be no less than .3 volts of your battery voltage at the terminals. if it is your supply wire from the battery is too small. Make sure ground wires are the same size as the feeders, a common mistake. For battery to battery connections or battery to engine use a no 2 wire supply and ground. Solder the ends of the wires then put on the connectors this ensures full contact and supply voltage and will reduce corrosion from the dissimilar metals also use shrink wrap. Connect all the grounds either with a bar or a terminal strip. Check continuity of each circuit and supplied voltage with a multi meter. Change out all nav lights cabin lights etc to leds bulbs or fixtures. Wire down riggers directly to the batteries using no less than a no 10 or 8 wire. Bigger is always better. Use the soldered battery connectors not the ones you bolt to the terminal, and solder the end of the wire first, same to the battery switch. have a dedicated engine battery and dedicated house batteries. Some outboards like The lovely ETECS have dual charging circuits so you can charge house and engine batts at the same time on both sides of the battery switch with no need to switch back and forth ... awesome !

PS you do all this and your an expert on your boats electrical system