2014 Fall /Winter and 2015 Spring boat projects
- Thread starter Sculpin
- Start date
.
Fish Assassin
Crew Member
Glad to hear you finally had someone look after those noisy fenders..... LOL Now there is less concern of one flying off and causing damage.... To the boat that is 
Sculpin
Well-Known Member
My buddy Goatram with the Miss Eliza got me going on the rod holders. I had 6 orginally. I don't need 50 plus like him lol, but I was thinking more along the lines of 10 or 12 staggered on either side of that cross bar. I'm doing up new mounts for the VHF antenna's and new deck lights.
Sculpin
Well-Known Member
Glad to hear you finally had someone look after those noisy fenders..... LOL Now there is less concern of one flying off and causing damage.... To the boat that is
Hey man, I might not have welded them, but I installed them lol
. Now we just need to get that Salmon Beach boat ramp dredged....(man we should have took pictures of that episode ha ha).
Last edited by a moderator:
gunnerlove
Well-Known Member
Why the swing arm sender?
Fish Assassin
Crew Member
The new sensors are $200-500 but are really accurate unlike the $30 swing arm. I almost upgraded last year but when I seen the price I went swing arm.
Sculpin I have the same question as Demco99, we have never met but I would like to discuss my idea when I have drawings, plan done? Looking at what you have posted you have forgotten more than I will know about metal fab. Awesome looking work on all your projects, even your work shop looks good (Big). I AM going to design, build and install that aluminum hardtop on my 18.6 DE this winter, in the driveway as my boat will not fit in my shop, (dam low doors). Never got done last year due to other jobs. I am sick of the cold water jet in the lap from the soft top and big waves and want a space to carry the traps and kayak (40lb) for spring bear season. Hope we can discuss and you may point me in the right direction when I start.
HM
HM
gunnerlove
Well-Known Member
I bought a tube type for $45.
Fish Assassin
Crew Member
I was looking at a digital stainless unit that was 18 inches when I seen the price I was out and put the old swing arm in
It was similar to this one but for fuel
Last edited by a moderator:
Sculpin
Well-Known Member
Rocket launchers are coming along.
My buddy Goatram from the black and red site was bugging me about not building a die to flare the tops out. I told him they would look to nice for my rig lol.
I'm going from 6 originally to 12 now. The staggering and offset allows this. I tested them with my Avet HX reels.
Quite few just tacked on for now.
The old ones were welded right to the roof. Put flat bars up from the roof ribs to the cross bar and all the new ones are free floating off the roof. The old ones were swept back too far with a 30 degree angle (although we never had an issue hitting rods). The new ones have a 15 degree tilt back. More practical me thinks.
My buddy Goatram from the black and red site was bugging me about not building a die to flare the tops out. I told him they would look to nice for my rig lol
.
I'm going from 6 originally to 12 now. The staggering and offset allows this. I tested them with my Avet HX reels.
Quite few just tacked on for now.
The old ones were welded right to the roof. Put flat bars up from the roof ribs to the cross bar and all the new ones are free floating off the roof. The old ones were swept back too far with a 30 degree angle (although we never had an issue hitting rods). The new ones have a 15 degree tilt back. More practical me thinks
.
Sculpin
Well-Known Member
1-1/2" schd 40 aluminum pipe.
Last edited by a moderator:
Sr SQ
Well-Known Member
These are the ones I made up this spring, need to take them off and get the powder coated now that I am happy with their design and locations.
I used 2" sch 40 for the tubes because I like the bigger tubes for when the rods are broken down.
I made up 2 brass dies, one to flare the top and one to taper the base, the tops were easy but the bases not so much lol
The ones on the hard top were the first design with just the tops flared, these were made with 1 1/2 sch 40
I used 2" sch 40 for the tubes because I like the bigger tubes for when the rods are broken down.
I made up 2 brass dies, one to flare the top and one to taper the base, the tops were easy but the bases not so much lol
The ones on the hard top were the first design with just the tops flared, these were made with 1 1/2 sch 40
Attachments
Last edited by a moderator:
Sr SQ
Well-Known Member
When I got the boat it had a big SS roller but it protruded past the bow by 4-5 inches and I didnt have room for that in the garage as you can see the garage door is within 1" so I needed to shorten things up a bit.
The SS I used was a conglomeration of flat/angle 316l SS that I scrounged up, it came out pretty good but man what a big job polishing this up
The SS I used was a conglomeration of flat/angle 316l SS that I scrounged up, it came out pretty good but man what a big job polishing this up
Attachments
Fishtank
Well-Known Member
Do you have picture of the brass dyes you used? And what kind of a machine did u use too press them into the rod holders for the flare and taper
Similar threads
