Filletandrelease
Well-Known Member
Those rod holders under the table must be for your shorter rods? Lol. Great lookin boat though. Looks like everything is top shelf.
2014 Fall /Winter and 2015 Spring boat projects
- Thread starter Sculpin
- Start date
Those rod holders under the table must be for your shorter rods? Lol. Great lookin boat though. Looks like everything is top shelf.
scott craven
Well-Known Member
But what about taking down the Christmas lights ? 
Fish Assassin
Crew Member
Can't have such small things mess with my fishing man........Landscaper can remove them when she comes to work the garden beds.But what about taking down the Christmas lights ?
Fish Assassin
Crew Member
After 9 years of hearing guys complain I finally ordered cup holders 
Looks like I'll be drilling a few more holes.
They are aluminum cup holders
Looks like I'll be drilling a few more holes.They are aluminum cup holders
Big Green Machine
Well-Known Member
After 9 years of hearing guys complain I finally ordered cup holders
They are aluminum cup holders
View attachment 16407
You putting ten cup holders in?6 to hold my Keystones and 4 for your Frescas?
Fish Assassin
Crew Member
Sorry I think I am booked that day
Bunk Slides
With carpeted bunks found shallow water boat recovery a challenge. I would never consider rollers, personal choice
Last year I purchased strips of "white" plastic boat glides, installed these on top of the carpeted bunks, found these to be terrible, they kept splitting and top mounted SS screws scratch boat underside
So, this year I purchased bigger plastic bunk glides
Installed them today, note: carpet has to be removed, SS screws are then installed on the side
So far so good and a very smooth recovery
With carpeted bunks found shallow water boat recovery a challenge. I would never consider rollers, personal choice
Last year I purchased strips of "white" plastic boat glides, installed these on top of the carpeted bunks, found these to be terrible, they kept splitting and top mounted SS screws scratch boat underside
So, this year I purchased bigger plastic bunk glides
Installed them today, note: carpet has to be removed, SS screws are then installed on the side
So far so good and a very smooth recovery
Attachments
fishin solo
Crew Member
uhmw works well for that just countersink the screws
Yea, these strips were not uhmw, it was some soft plastic, even with the SS screws counter sunk , they failed to do the job
Attachments
Sculpin
Well-Known Member
That's a great mod Tinboat if your gal is alloy. We have fixed 2 tinner's (Lund style) boats that the bottoms were rotted out because of carpeted bunks. Carpet traps the salt water between the hull and the bunk and it does it's nasty thing. If the the bunks are pressure treated wood, it is even nastier. There is a component injected into the pressure treated wood that likes eating aluminum if kept wet. Slick bunks with drainage is the answer. I put full strips of UHMW drilled and tapped into aluminum channels for my bunks.
Thanks Sculpin,
Yea, the copper content in wet pressure treated bunks was a factor in my decision to protect my aluminum boat and replace the carpet
I am very interested in your idea of "tapping into aluminum channels" I think I know what concept you mean, however I am unsure how to proceed, do you have any photos?, to help, please
Sculpin
Well-Known Member
There are some pics in this thread.
http://www.sportfishingbc.com/forum...iler-rebuild-thread&highlight=trailer+rebuild
FisherTim
Active Member
I was getting worried about my gunwales being able to support my downriggers, with 48" booms and 15lb weights, and wanted all my fishing equipment in 1 location. The bolts you see right outside of the Swivels connect to 1026 Base plates mounted UNDER the gunwale, one of my more clever inventions. I had to go to the Scotty factory to get some extras of those bolts they put on the through boom rod holders(they use the same thread as the Swivel Base)... Removable by 4 hand tightened bolts, what's more is that 2 of the bolts have little holes drilled through them and have a small padlock to prevent theft. (Believe me, drilling a hole through a threaded piece of hardened steel took a lot of patience)...
Total Cost:
Scotty Striker $55 x2
Scotty Swivel Base$95 x2
PVC Tube $10
Stainless threaded bar $15
Stainless bolts $.50 x25
Stainless self locking Nuts $.35 x 45
Stainless washers $.20 x16
Aluminum L Bar $16
Marinco Plugs&Receptical $60 x2
Scotty Electrics(used) $300 x2
1 1/4" treated Plywood $25
1 Quart Marine Paint $10
Scotty Bolts $2.61 x4
Total Cost: $1140
Total Cost:
Scotty Striker $55 x2
Scotty Swivel Base$95 x2
PVC Tube $10
Stainless threaded bar $15
Stainless bolts $.50 x25
Stainless self locking Nuts $.35 x 45
Stainless washers $.20 x16
Aluminum L Bar $16
Marinco Plugs&Receptical $60 x2
Scotty Electrics(used) $300 x2
1 1/4" treated Plywood $25
1 Quart Marine Paint $10
Scotty Bolts $2.61 x4
Total Cost: $1140
finaddict
Well-Known Member
Good solution Tim. Great way to tie in the strength across the entire stern of the boat. As a suggestion, I would round off each end of your mounting board (outboard of the gunwales) and soften the edges so that they can't catch a stray line while trying to land the fish. Also I would not put too much trust into the little padlocks on the bottom of the bolts. Little padlocks are easily passed with a little prybar........
. With your design being easily removable, I would suggest that you do remove when not in use. You will likely keep it for a lot longer.
Last edited by a moderator:
FisherTim
Active Member
Thanks, but The padlocks are in a VERY awkward place almost impossible to reach, and apart from people seeing this, most would not know, and like all else, it's a theft deterrent, not prevention device. I also live in a place where theft is almost nonexistant(Thank god), People leave Islanders on their rods showing openly...
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