scott craven
Well-Known Member
Best not to Rev the motor on muffs anyway. Too many variables with water pressure.
Ya, I'm going to dump a bottle of seafood in there now and see if I can rustle up some 'hosSea foam not seafood
I have no problem anymore , I put a pump in that keeps pressure at 60 psi and a 3000 gallon water tank all filled by my well pump ,I can run my 150 hp for 15 minutes at 2000 rpm cleans out all the salt deposits. I do that at least twice a season and once just before storing for the winter .Best not to Rev the motor on muffs anyway. Too many variables with water
Probably needs impeller for water pump changedI had some cheapie CTire muffs, switched to a barrel now though.
Just took it out and it still didn't want to rev past 3900 once it's in the water, though it had no problem doing so in the driveway. Will have to take it in asap
I had the impeller done last year, should be good to go. Will post an update once I figure out what is wrong in case anybody else can use the infoIt might need an impeller but that wouldn't have anything to do with the rev restricting.
These are my experiences with my Merc 50
Did you get any alarms at 3900? (McDonald launch mud/crap blockage)
Was it surging? (Fuel pump -I had to hand squeeze bulb to stay on step to get home- twice)
Both of my motors restrict revs when motor is running hotter than it should ,if temp continues to rise a audible alarm comes on .It might need an impeller but that wouldn't have anything to do with the rev restricting.
Are you able to screenshot a pic of where I can find the switch? I'll google around and see if I can identify it. cheersCheck the neutral safety switch on the engine. If the little tab doesn't pop out when you shift into gear it puts it in limp mode. Motor will shake and d-rate the revs but seem fine in neutral.
Not sure, reputable company so they would have used whatever is standard.did they use that fuel line with a liner inside it?
It's at the start of your shift cable. When in neutral a little tin flap makes contact with a block and lets all cylinders fire but when you shift into gear and pull the cable foward if the tin flap doest spring open and keep contact it drops cylinders and d-rates.Are you able to screenshot a pic of where I can find the switch? I'll google around and see if I can identify it. cheers
Not sure, reputable company so they would have used whatever is standard.