Window replacements in older house.

Newf said:
No stucco. The siding is wood and I believe it is called shiplap.
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If there are several windows in any one wall, remove all the siding, then follow best practices for the envelope reconstruction of that wall. Easier, less expensive, better outcome.
 
Foxsea said:
If there are several windows in any one wall, remove all the siding, then follow best practices for the envelope reconstruction of that wall. Easier, less expensive, better outcome.
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If the house has good overhangs, some of this envelope perfection is not required. We built good houses for years without rainscreen or even using the word envelope or membrane.
 
Brando said:
if they’re going from aluminum to vinyl don’t do the cheap route with the large vinyl flange that just fits inside the aluminum frame replace the entire window if the house is stucco this means some cutting and trim work after in some instances. we had ours lined up a few years ago and changed our mind but I found that Dan @ authentic installations was very knowledgeable and deals with westek windows which were recommended to me by a friend in the reno industry I trust. I had a bunch of quotes including Anderson and was going to go that route.
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Dan is great guy, I deal with them and Westeck almost exclusively. Not cheap.
 
Christo said:
Whatever they choose don’t forget to get the various government rebates.
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They had checked on one of the rebates and was told it had ended recently as the funding was all used up. There was an interest free loan,,,,not sure if it was from the government or one of the suppliers. Maybe a supplier, as they said if you took the loan the base price of the windows was higher.
 
Aquaholic said:
If the house has good overhangs, some of this envelope perfection is not required. We built good houses for years without rainscreen or even using the word envelope or membrane.
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All true but well before the era of high heating costs and energy conservation. Leaky, old houses dried out as the inside heated air migrated outward. Water penatration leads to fungal growth, wood rot and interior mould. Details are critical. Avoidance will guarantee expensive failures in the future. But do whatever. Not my dog or my fight.
 
Brando said:
If you want to replace your windows properly and the stucco is right up against the aluminum frame you don’t have a choice.
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I guess the bigger question revolves around "properly". The likelihood of doing an adequate, localized repair on a stucco tear-out is zero. Over time the inevitable outcome will be a bigger, more expensive problem to correct.
 
We remove windows every day by cutting between the siding and the frame, regardless of exterior finish material. Combination of multitool, sawzall and grinder. Our installers leave the flange intact, behind the siding, connect flashing tape(siga or 3M) then install the new window without flanges. The window is installed in the finished interior liner and screwed through the side of the window frame. Backer rod and silicone with aluminum cladding(occasionally wood or PVC) is used to finish the exterior. No painting or additional work is required minus any minor damage that occurs typically with renovation construction.
 
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Bifmalibu said:
We remove windows every day by cutting between the siding and the frame, regardless of exterior finish material. Combination of multitool, sawzall and grinder. Our installers leave the flange intact, behind the siding, connect flashing tape(siga or 3M) then install the new window without flanges. The window is installed in the finished interior liner and screwed through the side of the window frame. Backer rod and silicone with aluminum cladding(occasionally wood or PVC) is used to finish the exterior. No painting or additional work is required minus any minor damage that occurs typically with renovation construction.
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What Window Company?
 
Bifmalibu said:
We remove windows every day by cutting between the siding and the frame, regardless of exterior finish material. Combination of multitool, sawzall and grinder. Our installers leave the flange intact, behind the siding, connect flashing tape(siga or 3M) then install the new window without flanges. The window is installed in the finished interior liner and screwed through the side of the window frame. Backer rod and silicone with aluminum cladding(occasionally wood or PVC) is used to finish the exterior. No painting or additional work is required minus any minor damage that occurs typically with renovation construction.
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Sounds great! Leaving the old flange in place and using high quality
sealants is critical. Accurate measuring is also very important. 3/4" backer and fist-fulls of sealant are not acceptable. You're company is doing it right!

My neighbor had windows replaced by a highly regarded company. The estimator screwed up twice ( 4 rakehead windows - even templated) so out the new windows go. 4 months later the third round of replacements fit, if your criteria for workmanship is minimal. Embarrasing! These days, it's the blind leading the blind. The experienced crews are seemingly now retired or have moved on to better things.
 
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