Which setting do i need to charge both batteries
- Thread starter Daveroo
- Start date
jim morrow
Active Member
It is likely that one battery will charge at a time. The electronics will decide which needs charging. Maybe time to trace wires and find out how your system works.
trophy fisher
Active Member
Need to switch to both for charging both. It's only a manual selector switch. Looks like someone put labels over the 1 and 2 to identify the batteries. Always switch to both after startup for charging and insolate when not running or when cranking.
tubber
Well-Known Member
When lucid, I start the boat on the starter battery (1), switch to house (2) right away because my riggers are direct wired to it, and I want it topped up, go fishing, switch back to 1 for the run home to top it up. Switch to off at dock. I never switch to both, but would if the boat won't start which hasn't happened.
Works for me.
Works for me.
I have the same type of deep cycle batteries and a smart charger. Switch to both all the time when running and when on charger. Never have had any issues.
I know that I probably trust the kicker charging the house bit too much but I’ve never had any problems with using the downriggers and other electronics when trolling on the kicker. @tubber ‘s solution is what I would do if I have no access to shore power for extended period of time.
I know that I probably trust the kicker charging the house bit too much but I’ve never had any problems with using the downriggers and other electronics when trolling on the kicker. @tubber ‘s solution is what I would do if I have no access to shore power for extended period of time.
Max123
Well-Known Member
If a boat doesn't start because one battery is low/dead, my understanding is that you don't want to combine to both - just switch to the good battery. When you combine to both, the voltage to the starter will be the average of the good & bad battery combined (eg, your bad battery is dragging everything down).
Even if you house is a deep cycle with lower CCA - it can typically still start the engine - its just slow and sounds a bit painful (unless its dead of winter and engine is stone cold).
ClintR
Active Member
I was under the impression that you should never change positions on the switch when motor is running?
Edit: I googled it and saying I can switch between batteries but not to the off position when motor is running
Seems like a lot of hassle having to switch over batteries this way not to mention possible loss of "available power to re-start an engine" if power usage is not adequately monitored.
Probably not the answer you're looking for, but save the headaches for the hangovers and get a blue sea battery switch with an ACR. Problem solved.
Probably not the answer you're looking for, but save the headaches for the hangovers and get a blue sea battery switch with an ACR. Problem solved.
zurk
Well-Known Member
yes this or DC to DC if you want to upgrade to lithium later.
switches make and break connections rapidly. if you move the switch while the alternator is running and the switch disconnects between transitions you will burn out your alternator. exactly the same as a lithium disconnect.
similarly if one battery is at 20 Amps and the other battery is at 200Amps full charge when your switch connects the two you will get 90 Amp-hrs of current dumped into your wiring as they equalize and the voltage will the drawn down on the battery with more charge, depending on the itnernal resistance of the battery. it gets complicated in lead acid but basically when two batteries are connected in parallel, positive to positive and negative to negative, the circuit is completed. In this circuit, one battery serves as a load for another. The direction of the current will depend on which battery has a higher voltage. The current in such circuit will be limited by internal resistance of the batteries. The equalization of the voltages occurs due to a voltage drop on the internal resistance of the dominant battery.
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SpringVelocity
Crew Member
Omg already talking about lithium lololol. Yes great let's add a complete fire hazard on boat. Sounds 
. One of my engineering labs I was at burned down from lithium batteries so they won't be coming on my boat.
In all seriousness you need to switch it to both with setup you have.
If you want to upgrade it a bit an upgrade an ACR I recommend. Then you don't have to switch anything.
Good luck....
. One of my engineering labs I was at burned down from lithium batteries so they won't be coming on my boat.In all seriousness you need to switch it to both with setup you have.
If you want to upgrade it a bit an upgrade an ACR I recommend. Then you don't have to switch anything.
Good luck....
zurk
Well-Known Member
better not talk on the cellphone or use a laptop or fly inside any modern jets like the 787 or drive near any electric cars then. after all the lithium can totally hunt you down and kill you. *sigh* its totally going to set you on fire unlike the hundred gallons of gasoline in your tanks.
SpringVelocity
Crew Member
And anyways.....LOLOL
brutus
Well-Known Member
I run the same switch, 1-2 or both always have on all my boats, one deep cycle cranking battery one deep cycle house battery (lead acid) both have enough cca to start the main motor, I always start on both and run, once I go on kicker I switch to house battery, then repeat on the way back , simple and cheap. Replace batterys every 5-6 years, load test them before they go in service in the spring. Works for me for the last 20 years, I am way to cheap to pay 1k for lithium, just can’t see the benefit
salmonkiller01
Well-Known Member
I under think mine. Turn to both and fish all day. Never had an issue. Change batteries at the same time every 2-3 years.
Daveroo
Active Member
Thanks for all the answers. Things work as I suspected, so I will continue to do what I try (whenever I remember), Start to start, Both when running under Main motor, back to D/C (House) when running the downriggers. When parked in my garage3, I like to plug in to slow charge or top up. I have a Noco.
sly_karma
Crew Member
Whoa there fella, you need to take a different POV: weight. Typical group 27 lead battery is 50 lb, lithium in same size is 30 lb. Switch em both out, and you now have capacity for 40 lb more fishing tackle! With those weight savings, you can buy all the latest guide series new flasher colours while still keeping your originals - you'll always be catching, even if the fish decide it's Retro Day!
Now you can afford to buy a few dozen turd hootchies, unconcerned about the extra weight. Need an extra cannonball and clip, because Stizz is guesting on a trip? Worry no more!
80 extra teaser heads? No problem. Two each of every Skinny G colour? Bring 'em on! The possibilities are endless, all because you saw the light (weight).
brutus
Well-Known Member
40lbs extra in my boat don’t make a differsnce, and I already have enough gear to last till I die lol
jim morrow
Active Member
I am still wondering if Daveroo has figured out his wiring yet. follow the wires Dave, make a drawing, consult an electrician if you have to once you finish the drawing.
In the old inboard outboard, all you do is get a battery isolater, wire to the middle terminal from the alternator, the other 2 terminals wire to the batteries. the isolater senses the lower voltage battery and charges it. No switching the main motor power switch at all. I used another power switch for the aux. battery, which was wired to the kicker motor, and downriggers.
Lots of peeps now using the Blue Seas components.
In the old inboard outboard, all you do is get a battery isolater, wire to the middle terminal from the alternator, the other 2 terminals wire to the batteries. the isolater senses the lower voltage battery and charges it. No switching the main motor power switch at all. I used another power switch for the aux. battery, which was wired to the kicker motor, and downriggers.
Lots of peeps now using the Blue Seas components.
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