What Did You Do To Your Boat This Week?
- Thread starter Stizzla
- Start date
kaelc
Crew Member
Your engine, radar, top, light colour scheme looks sick.
Sorry the weather isn’t cooperating, but would you mind posting pics when you do get it done.
Gallivanter
Crew Member
Thank you
Rayvon
Well-Known Member
Got the EVA finished other than a few area's I'd like to seal up with black Sikaflex.I left the deck plate screws accessable,but the only reason to pull it would be to do a tank removal which shouldn't be for at least 30 years,so second guessing that decision.Anyways it's one more to do off my list.
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Sea Chaser
Crew Member
Looks great .
Sea Chaser
Crew Member
That looks great!
Corey_lax
Crew Member
I give it one trip before the passenger makes you buy another one haha
TheHurtLocker
Well-Known Member
pescador
Well-Known Member
I’m looking at the same project in a couple of weeks. Any learning? Any tricks on figuring out the geometry of doing your corners and other cuts? And, did you have to apply addition bonding material where it didn’t stick well enough?
Rayvon
Well-Known Member
I went by a center line and worked off that.Luckily I fastened the deck plate on center and the table and cabinets on the other side were very close.I used a straight edge for cutting and sometimes peeled back a bit of the backing (to stick to straight edge) and routed the edge.I cut a piece of plywood to the correct radius for the corners.A new edge exacto knife seemed to work as well as anything. I did mask off and use spray adhesive after cleaning the area with acetone .Worked out pretty well and looks balanced side to side.Used my leftover pieces on the pod corners.
barkerfam
Well-Known Member
Placed it on the market!
'98 Pursuit 2870 WA with trailer
Big Picture: USD $58k, located in washington state 1998 Pursuit 2870 WA Twin 2013 Suzuki 250 (363 hrs each) Triple axel loadmaster aluminum trailer with electric over hydraulic disc brakes Lowrance electronics (Chartplotter X 2, radar, thru hull transducer) Little pictures...
sportfishingbc.com
Max123
Well-Known Member
Got the boat out on the Pitt River yesterday for the first time this year.
Prior to launch, pulled out my two old/original batteries, replaced with a single higher output AGM battery and modified the disconnect switch to eliminate the 2nd battery connection (my electrical load is pretty minimal and I wanted to ditch the extra weight - I carry a jump pack as a backup). Still need to clean up the wiring a bit and maybe buy a new battery box, but everything worked fine. I bought the boat second hand, and I need to make an electrical schematic - still learning how everything is wired. The auto bilge pump wiring is still a bit of a mystery to me...
Random marine parts gripe:
I was using an automotive battery and needed adapter studs. Standard part and easy to find, but for some reason all adapters studs are sized at 5/16" for negative and 3/8" for positive. Doesn't matter if you buy them as a set or individually - they always come this way and are marked as +/- on on the adapter. Fair enough - I buy the adapters.
Try to install - no dice. The ring connectors for my positive terminal are all 5/16" and won't fit over a 3/8" stud. Have to scramble around on Saturday to find a second 5/16" adapter. In the end no problem, everything worked out.
My question is why they would make adapters with mismatched stud size. You need to carry around a second socket size, and most marine batteries seem to come with either 5/16" or M8 studs on both terminals (on my old battery both terminals were 5/16" and I checked the Rolls catalogue, and every marine battery the sell all the way up to 200ah uses M8 studs on both terminals). Where does the 3/8" size even come from, and why are all kits sold with the mismatched size?
Other weird stuff: Most adapters are just pure lead, but the more expensive ones are lead plated brass. Not sure which is better, but I just went with pure lead.
Prior to launch, pulled out my two old/original batteries, replaced with a single higher output AGM battery and modified the disconnect switch to eliminate the 2nd battery connection (my electrical load is pretty minimal and I wanted to ditch the extra weight - I carry a jump pack as a backup). Still need to clean up the wiring a bit and maybe buy a new battery box, but everything worked fine. I bought the boat second hand, and I need to make an electrical schematic - still learning how everything is wired. The auto bilge pump wiring is still a bit of a mystery to me...
Random marine parts gripe:
I was using an automotive battery and needed adapter studs. Standard part and easy to find, but for some reason all adapters studs are sized at 5/16" for negative and 3/8" for positive. Doesn't matter if you buy them as a set or individually - they always come this way and are marked as +/- on on the adapter. Fair enough - I buy the adapters.
Try to install - no dice. The ring connectors for my positive terminal are all 5/16" and won't fit over a 3/8" stud. Have to scramble around on Saturday to find a second 5/16" adapter. In the end no problem, everything worked out.
My question is why they would make adapters with mismatched stud size. You need to carry around a second socket size, and most marine batteries seem to come with either 5/16" or M8 studs on both terminals (on my old battery both terminals were 5/16" and I checked the Rolls catalogue, and every marine battery the sell all the way up to 200ah uses M8 studs on both terminals). Where does the 3/8" size even come from, and why are all kits sold with the mismatched size?
Other weird stuff: Most adapters are just pure lead, but the more expensive ones are lead plated brass. Not sure which is better, but I just went with pure lead.
seahorse
Crew Member
Installed a NMEA 2000 network to get my Suzuki DF250 information onto my Lowrance HDS Live display. Fairly easy install but had to get the proper Suzuki SMIS Interface cable software version and also needed the SDS to SMIS adapter. It’s pretty cool to have the digital rpm, fuel flow, temperature, hours etc on the screen to fine tune cruise speed and fuel burn. I just ordered a shorter NMEA cable to eliminate one of the big loops off the backbone
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seachicken
Well-Known Member
Nice, I should look to see if we can connect my motor to my Lowrance Elite FS...
kaelc
Crew Member
Nice. I had a quote of 1k for a single mercury gauge that although does adjust trolling rpm isn't as advanced as what you are getting. I didn't even bother to get a quote on the mercury interface.
What size Hds screen or screens are you running? I run a 7&9, and I can move the 7 to the stern when trolling. Be great to have all that info!
seahorse
Crew Member
I have a single HDS 12 now and running old school analog gauges
