Volvo Trim Sensor Changes in Reverse?

Rain City

Crew Member
Is this normal? I've never noticed it before but I'm wondering if it has something to do with the reverse lock that I just had fixed. When I throw the boat in reverse it goes from my normal -3 up to a +1. And then drops down again when I take it out of gear. These sensors have been a constant issue so at first I didn't think much of it. But then I realized that this one is actually currently working when I adjust the trim at rest. The other side is just dummied because it broke four times.
 
Because the drives move?
Not sure about yours, but the one I had single AD 41 with DP 290DP the drive would not stay trimmed, always had to play with it, when trailering had to tie it up with a strap or the drive would go down, was told by a old timer Volvo guy common with those drive, too heavy, I change the pump and check for leaks, none I could find,was also told should change hydronic cilinder might fix it, but when I seen the price I backed off. Mine had no sensor, always had to play with it to keep it trimmed properly, was a real pain in the a…
 
Not sure about yours, but the one I had single AD 41 with DP 290DP the drive would not stay trimmed, always had to play with it, when trailering had to tie it up with a strap or the drive would go down, was told by a old timer Volvo guy common with those drive, too heavy, I change the pump and check for leaks, none I could find,was also told should change hydronic cilinder might fix it, but when I seen the price I backed off. Mine had no sensor, always had to play with it to keep it trimmed properly, was a real pain in the a…
So it's a combination of the cylinder holding it in place and then the reverse lock is just a last resort? I'm told the cylinders can get air in them? Man, I'm tired of "learning new things" about Volvo drives
 
So it's a combination of the cylinder holding it in place and then the reverse lock is just a last resort? I'm told the cylinders can get air in them? Man, I'm tired of "learning new things" about Volvo drives
I have never looked too hard at this issue. Just assumed that you need to check trim after reversing.
Actually I check trim all the time.
Leg trim is not a set and forget sort of operation.
 
I have never looked too hard at this issue. Just assumed that you need to check trim after reversing.
Actually I check trim all the time.
Leg trim is not a set and forget sort of operation.
Well that's exactly what I thought it was lol. The issue I was seeing was that it went up but then came back down. As far as the gauge told me anyways
 
Well that's exactly what I thought it was lol. The issue I was seeing was that it went up but then came back down. As far as the gauge told me anyways
Ya mine went down on foward all the time, would push my bow down hard causing the the boat to nose dig, really annoying, had to play with trim all the time
 
Ya mine went down on foward all the time, would push my bow down hard causing the the boat to nose dig, really annoying, had to play with trim all the time
Mine don't seem to adjust while on plane
 
Interesting. On my bayliner I used it constantly to maximize speed and efficiency
Full tilt is -6 on my gauge, I find the sweet spot for high cruise, 3200 rpm at -5.

You have found the sweet spot for your twins, right?
Might be why they are grumpy.
Don't ask how to find the sweet spot, the boat feels light and the engines are breathing free. It just feels and sounds right.
 
Full tilt is -6 on my gauge, I find the sweet spot for high cruise, 3200 rpm at -5.

You have found the sweet spot for your twins, right?
Might be why they are grumpy.
Don't ask how to find the sweet spot, the boat feels light and the engines are breathing free. It just feels and sounds right.
Yes exactly. With this boat I've always just left it at one notch up from max down. Full down gives you the rumble thats telling you it doesn't like it. But being so stern heavy the boat doesn't like being trimmed up like the bayliner did. It wants as much help getting the nose down as possible or it just plows. I'm thinking that's why the guys with newer lighter volvos get that much better performance
 
Yes exactly. With this boat I've always just left it at one notch up from max down. Full down gives you the rumble thats telling you it doesn't like it. But being so stern heavy the boat doesn't like being trimmed up like the bayliner did. It wants as much help getting the nose down as possible or it just plows. I'm thinking that's why the guys with newer lighter volvos get that much better performance
The new D4's are way heavier than the 41's. The 41 is about 1200 pounds and the D4 is about 1450 pounds each so another 500 pounds back there. They had to raise the swim grid up 2 inches when switching to the new engines. For me -5 is full down and 0 is about level. +45 is full up. I need -5 to get up on plane quick and then around -1 to +2 when crusing which is cavitation plate about level to bottom of boat. You usually need a bit of trim tab on too. These boats are not as repsonsive to trim and tabs like smaller/lighter boats.

If you look at the trim sensor on top of the leg it is pretty basic. A round gear and a geared plastic strip held in place by a plastic screw. On my Seasport the screw that held the plastic strip came loose and it moved around causing reading errors. I ended up using 5200 to lock the screw in place. I suspect your readings are just due to wear on the gears. Next time you have the boat out is very easy to check. Plus you can see what reading your legs are at when level. It is also possible that when both legs are level they could show different readings.
To adjust the readings you remove the plastic screw and move the geared strip. Then you can move the black geared wheel to get the reading you want when trim all the way down. You should aim for zero when the cavitation plate is parallel to the hull. Your mechanic should know all this
 

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The new D4's are way heavier than the 41's. The 41 is about 1200 pounds and the D4 is about 1450 pounds each so another 500 pounds back there. They had to raise the swim grid up 2 inches when switching to the new engines. For me -5 is full down and 0 is about level. +45 is full up. I need -5 to get up on plane quick and then around -1 to +2 when crusing which is cavitation plate about level to bottom of boat. You usually need a bit of trim tab on too. These boats are not as repsonsive to trim and tabs like smaller/lighter boats.

If you look at the trim sensor on top of the leg it is pretty basic. A round gear and a geared plastic strip held in place by a plastic screw. On my Seasport the screw that held the plastic strip came loose and it moved around causing reading errors. I ended up using 5200 to lock the screw in place. I suspect your readings are just due to wear on the gears. Next time you have the boat out is very easy to check. Plus you can see what reading your legs are at when level. It is also possible that when both legs are level they could show different readings.
To adjust the readings you remove the plastic screw and move the geared strip. Then you can move the black geared wheel to get the reading you want when trim all the way down. You should aim for zero when the cavitation plate is parallel to the hull. Your mechanic should know all this
Yeah that screw has fallen off a few times. They seem to get messed with every time I'm at a shop.
 
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