Tuna?
- Thread starter Charlie
- Start date
IronNoggin
Well-Known Member
Spoke with a Buddy over in Ukee yesterday. He's gearing up to head out and work tuna commercially. Latest contact info with his group: 150 miles offshore. So... Not Yet.
But, there have been a handfull of warm water species being tagged as bycatch with the drag fleet out of Ukee, so should the pattern continue, likely within a couple or three weeks.
Last year, they didn't make it within range for us in Ukee until just after mid-August.
Cheers,
Nog
But, there have been a handfull of warm water species being tagged as bycatch with the drag fleet out of Ukee, so should the pattern continue, likely within a couple or three weeks.
Last year, they didn't make it within range for us in Ukee until just after mid-August.
Cheers,
Nog
I
ichthyoid
Guest
Maverick Maxcat came in to Newport, Oregon with a 26 tuna, out about 70-80 miles. They are on the highway.
PassMeABeer
Member
I'll be heading up to Nootka on Aug 21st and I'm hoping to go out for some Tuna then. Any idea how far we'd have to go offshore? Do we need to be looking for a specific water temperature before we should bother rigging the Tuna gear? Any advice would be much appreciated.
G
gutchucker
Guest
What do you use to catch Tuna ? Are they closer off winter harbour ?
Cheers & thanks in advance.
Cheers & thanks in advance.
G
gutchucker
Guest
lol... I guess I shold have also asked "how do you catch tuna ?" .. troll ? what speeds ? mooch ? depth ? rod set up ?
thanks and cheers
thanks and cheers
Charlie
Well-Known Member
Okay... you asked for it! Everything I know about "tuna"! LOL
Here it is!
ALBACORE
Albacore Migrate from the West Pacific (Japan and Midway) to the East Pacific (U.S. West Coast) along the Japanese current. Then into and up the California Current. The furthest south they occur off our West Coast below Punta Bunda, Baja. They then travel north as far as British Columbia Canada. This migration is followed until Albacore reach maturity above seventy-five pounds and are ready to spawn. When they reach that size to go into another circular current south of Midway Island and spend the rest of their days in that current. That's the reason we never see any Albacore with roe. The fish in our migration are all immature fish. Mature Albacore will reach a size of one hundred and fifty pounds or more. In the last few years it has been found that Albacore over 40 lbs. will stay in an area if suitable water temps. and feed is there. Some fish stayed off the California Coast all year in 97 and 98. That was the reason we were catching Albacore from 70 to 90 pounds.
Albacore are one of the Tunas whose body temperature is warmer by several degrees than the water in which they swim. They must always be on the move because they haven't any swim bladder. If they stop moving they'll sink. The way they get a little rest is to swim up sharply from three-hundred feet or deeper to about one-hundred feet. Then they'll take a long downward glide back down to the depth they started from. We suspect this behavior may also have something to do with regulating their body temperature. The same way Yellow-fin and Big-eye tuna do. They will come to the surface to feed, but not for a long period of time. They have large eyes for feeding at depths of over a thousand feet. Their eyes don't have eye lids and are very sensitive to light.
Our off-shore commercial fleet, the Western Fish Boat Owners Association (WFBOA), starts fishing the fish in our migration the last of April or first of May. They start fishing around Latitudes 40.00 N. to 44.00 N. and between 160.00 W. Longitude and the International date line. That's north of Midway Island. As they move east towards our west coast they also move south. If they work inshore beyond the five-hundred fathom mark. They will usually be in or around our sea canyons.
The first Albacore off our California Coast. Usually show up at such places as the Cortez Bank, San Juan Seamount, in southern California around the fourth of July. Then on the North side of Point Conception. They appear on places like the Davidson Seamount, the 455 Spot, 601 Spot, Guide Seamount, Pioneer and Gum Drop Seamounts right around the middle of July. However in the past eight years Albacore has been very scarce below Pt. Conception.
Typically Albacore south of Point Conception, are usually two year olds. Averaging eighteen pounds. Albacore north of the point, are three years and four year olds or older. They average twenty-five pounds and up. One year old fish, averaging eight pounds do however occur in both areas Albacore will be off our coast in some years as late as January, depending on Sea Surface temperatures.
Don't be put off by cooler water temperatures. Remember Albacore migrate at an average depth of between two hundred to three hundred feet or deeper. How cool do you think the water temperatures are down there? A good rule of thumb is July through October fish surface waters from fifty-eight and a half degree and up. After October fish in waters of fifty-five degree's and up. Later season fish tolerate cooler surface temperatures. Of course warmer is always better. When the surface gets cooler than fifty-five or warmer than sixty-eight, they leave.
Albacore generally surface on or around a temperature break, or up-welling. That's were cool deep water surfaces and hits warmer surface water. Causing a plankton bloom that attracts bait fish. These breaks can sometime be visually seen. They look like a long slick, kind of how it looks when a ship passes through an area (so always fish the warm edge of a temp. break). Remember Albacore like clear blue water, so blue that it's almost purple. However we always catch a few of what we call "green water hogs" in off color water. These are usually pretty large fish. We usually get them on the trip back home.
Another good place to check is around floating kelp patties. They usually hold bait fish that attracts predator fish. Feeding Porpoise and Whales are another place that deserves checking. If you have a good depth sounder you can read Albacore, if you don't, you ought to be able to read bait fish and squid, so check that area out. Long areas of floating kelp and debris usually means you are at the edge of the California Current. Try the outside edge. Look for diving birds, or even just birds in the area ( be sure to fish around setting birds they are sometimes setting on top of fish), in general look for signs of life. You don't want to spend your day fishing a dead area. Also keep in mind that about three days before, and about three days after a full moon the bite will usually be a late afternoon bite.
If you find fish, don't be afraid to put the information out on the radio. Most of the time more boats working the area properly, can mean more Tuna for everyone including you. When we had hundreds of commercial jig boats out there, Albacore schools were pretty easy to find. There are very few jig to boats anymore. So it's up us private boaters to keep each other informed. Albacore can move a long way in a few hours.
In June till the middle of September fish can be found by trolling feathered jigs at between six and a half to nine knots. Troll lines in a V pattern, the bottom of the V should be at the center of the boat and the shortest line. The first thing Albacore are attracted to is the bottom of your boat and the wake. They think the bottom of the boat is bait ball, and the wake is something feeding on that bait ball. So don't fish lines seventy-eleven miles back. A good starting rule is around the second wave behind the boat. Always keep lines and jigs clean of kelp, jelly fish and sea grass's. Another words check them often.
For boats that carry live bait any time you get a jig strike or see fish, try to chum them to the boat. Always chum so that the boat will drift over the chum not away from it. You can chum dead bait but be careful that you don't put so much bait in the water that they will follow the sinking bait down.
Use light colored jigs on bright days and dark jigs when conditions are darker. Good patterns are. Zucchini, Mexican flag, red and white, blue and white, green and white, green and yellow, purple, purple and black, and root beer. If I only had my choice of four. They would be, zucchini, Mexican flag, red and white, and purple and black. My favorite brand of Tuna jigs Sevenstrand jigs, because their colors and weights are better than other brands. Their Leaping Daisy is a real killer.
Rig some of your lines with daisy chains. That's three or four smaller feathers threaded up your line about a foot apart, and held there with a micro press, with a larger different color larger jig about eighteen inches behind them. The larger jig is the only one with a hook in it. You can use jig's of the same size, if you don't have small ones. Again try Sevenstrand Leaping Daisy.
Spreader bars really produce. You can troll nine to twelve hoochies. With a trailing feather with a hook in it, at the rear center of the rig. It looks like a whole school of bait, with a predator behind them. They are very hard to keep untangled, however. If you are weighing your boat lines, try a length of chain instead of a lead. The chain will make bubbles, which will attract fish. Trolling teasers such as Birds causes surface commotion that will bring fish up. Keep teasers ahead of the jigs.
Another tip for trolling is if you get a jig strike, and you don't have the live bait to chum. Try to keep going for at least a long ten count. You will have a good chance of hooking some more fish. When you wind the other rigs in after you stop wind them fast, sometimes that will result in another hook up. Mix some Fish trap 5" lures in your spread with weighted heads and when you get bit just let the Fish Traps drop and leave them drift and they will usually hook up.
It never hurts also to toss a hand full of bait, even chunked bait off the stern. Then while the people are fighting their fish, keep a light chum going in the direction of your drift. Another thing that works upon a jig strike is to cast back what's called, a drop-back rig, or a Fish Trap Lure. Free-spool it till the boat stops. Then retrieve it slowly, if a fish hits it throw reel in free spool let it swallow it then set the hook. A drop back rig is the same as a trolled bait rig, only with a two foot leader, The sinker should be chrome platted. A metal jig will also work, but you will have to retrieve it fast.
One more trick if you can read Albacore deep on your meter, circle over them. Pull all your lines on the side of the boat that are towards the inside of the circle. Chum the outside of the circle with frozen bait, long enough to let the first chummed baits sink to the depth they at. You want to chum enough to create a long spiral of bait down to the fish. Most time they will follow the spiral up and hit your jigs. That's an old northern jig boat trick.
Around the last of September these fish will switch over from feeding on squid, to feeding on bait fish, and will not readily take a feathered jig. You can tell when the switch comes you'll start seeing a large amount jumpers and surface feeding Albacore. Try trolling a Rapala CD-18 in the blue-white, green-white and Mackerel patterns. Cedar Plugs by Strike, in blue-white, green-yellow, or red-white patterns work well also. And again here Fish Trap Lures are deadly. A Sevenstrand Leaping Daisy will work well then to. Set lines in a V trolling pattern, as you did with the feathers.
Another technique that will work is trolling a bait fish four to six feet behind a two to four ounce torpedo sinker. Hook the bait fish up through the bottom lip and out the top lip or head. Troll very slowly, and fish in free spool. When the fish hits, let it swallow it before setting the hook (the bait can be a dead bait). You want to be sure fish are in the area before you do this. You will not cover much ground, trolling baits. You have to troll a little slower than Salmon trolling speed. Baits can be dead baits. Fish Trap lures are red hot for this.
When Albacore are feeding on bait fish, they tend to school in tighter schools. If you see an area of jumping, or surface breezing fish. Try not to run over the top of them. Position the boat up drift from them and slide to within casting distance. Cast some metal Jigs at them. Like big Kastmasters, Crocodiles, Hopkins, UFOs, or my favorite, a large Miki Mouse. Let it sink for at least one hundred feet. Then wind as fast as you can. If you are going to troll fish them. One of the things that works best is a Fish Trap with a 1/2 to 1-1/2 oz. head, I prefer the Channel Island Anchovies color, they work very well trolled also. Troll around the outside edge, not through the middle. If you run through the middle of them you'll put them down.
If you don't find fish on a trip, don't give up try again maybe you zigged when you should have zagged. Check the Sea Surface Temperature charts, look for a different area. It's an awful big ocean and Albacore can move a good distance in one day. Remember they have no swim bladders so they must always keep moving, or they will sink.
Out-Riggers, I cannot stress strongly enough the value of these to the private boater. They will increase your lines spread and will increase your score by at least thirty percent. Make sure they are mounted properly. A private boat with out-riggers should be able to troll from seven to nine lines without tangles, along with a couple of short boat lines. One more thing DO NOT use last years' lines and leaders. Changing line will be the cheapest part of the success of your next blue water trip. Don't cheat on hooks or line Quality. And remember the old Albacore fishing law, keep your hooked fish in front of you, "NO ANGLES NO TANGLES"
Now let’s talk Safety: 17 points that could save your life.
1 ALWAYS RUN WITH A RUNNING MATE (they can help you if you're in trouble)
2 HAVE A GOOD RADIO (no one can hear you if it's not working well)
3 A CELL PHONE (a good thing to have along for emergencies)
4 ALWAYS LEAVE SOMEONE YOUR TRIP PLAN (we will know where to start looking in case of trouble)
5 PAY ATTENTION TO THE WEATHER (if it even looks like its going to blow don't go)
6 CHECK WAVE SIZE AND FREQUENCY ANYTHING CLOSER THAN TWELVE SEC. COULD BE TROUBLE (most boater accidents are because of weather)
7 YOU SHOULD HAVE A GPS OR LORAN (so you can tell were you are)
8 PROPER FLOATATION GEAR (good sense, and it is the law)
9 TAKE PLENTY OF FUEL (there are no gas stations out there)
10 DRINKING WATER ( no drinking fountains either, you can go without food for a long time but not long without water)
11 CARRY PLENTY OF DISTRESS FLARES (they can be seen from a pretty good distance)
12 A SATELLITE DISTRESS LOCATION TRANSMITTER IS INVALUABLE. (The sea is so big and my boat's so small. It's an awful big ocean to find some one in)
13 A GOOD FIRST AID KIT (can be a life saver)
14 SPARE WARM CLOTHES (in case of a emergency overnight stay)
15 SPARE ENGINE BATTERY (I saw four boats last year have to be towed in due to battery problems)
16 OFF-SHORE CHARTS, COMPASS and PARALLEL RULE (good to have in case GPS fails)
17 ALWAYS CARRY A FIRE EXTINGUISHER
18 KNOW YOUR BOATS LIMITS AND DON'T EXCEED THEM
(the trip home is usually rougher than the trip out)
Albacore
Schools of albacore inhabit the west coast seasonally between the middle of June through the end of October. Their normal range during this time is from Cedros Island, Baja California, to Oregon. Albacore have been spotted as far north as the central Alaskan coast and as far south as tropical Mexico. The remainder of the year they spend migrating to Japan and returning to California. Albacore prefer deep blue oceanic water and sea temperatures above 58 degrees F.
Albacore spawn in the central Pacific between January and June prior to their migration to the west coast. Female albacore first spawn when they are between 34-36" long. They release over a million eggs which are less than 1/25th of an inch in diameter. The eggs hatch within a few days. Albacore grow approximately 6-8 pounds per year. A six year old fish will be about 40" long and weigh about 45 pounds. A 70 pound albacore will be from 10-12 years old.
Albacore feed primarily on small fish such as anchovies and sardines but squid and small shrimp also make up important parts of their diet. Albacore will usually feed on what is the easiest food to obtain at the time.
Fishing Methods: During a good year albacore can be found within five to ten miles offshore. During a bad year they can be over 100 miles offshore making for long boat rides. Albacore follow the warm currents along the California coast. Study the sea surface temperature maps for warm/colder water gradients and troll the warm side with feather jigs and plugs. When one of the trolling rigs gets hit, circle around the school and cast live sardines or anchovies. If you are fishing on a party boat it is quite common that by chumming with live bait the school can be induced to surface. Try getting a bait or jig down about 60'. The bigger fish will be on the bottom of the school and you may wind up with an opah or bigeye tuna taking the bait.
BAIT TANKS (small to large)
Live bait tanks start at the canvas bag over the stern type, with a water pickup device under the stern or transom of the boat to create a water flow into the bag when the boat is moving. Stop the boat, and so does the water. Needless to say I don’t like this type of live bait tank, however that is how I started.
There are a vast amount of molded fiberglass tanks available, in all different shapes and sizes to fit all boats small to medium size. These tanks come with pumps to use, or the manufacturer will recommend what pump works well with there units. I strongly recommend Southern California manufacturers of these tanks, as they are familiar with their tanks designed for holding Anchovies or Sardines. They can help you set up the proper water flow for these type baits. My tanks are made by Pacific Edge in southern California. I test these tanks often by timing how long they take to fill (8 minutes is my magic number). If your tank does not have a light built into it, provide a light from the top. Traveling at night to the tuna grounds is easier for the bait if they can see. This is also the case if you are holding the bait overnight. I like tanks that induce water in a clockwise direction, this creates a current for the bait to calmly school in. Deal with a manufacturer that can give you answers.
On large party boats there is generally one man who is responsible for the live bait, and operation of these tanks. He is always given a God like position onboard. These boats often travel days to their fishing grounds, and encounter large temperature changes we don’t have to worry about.
LIVE BAIT (buying or catching)
I have never been successful with a throw net, so I would defer from even discussing this method of catching live bait. I often use the Subiki bait rigs in the Pillar Pt harbor to catch my favorite bait for Albacore, the Pacific Sardine. I have just as much luck fishing from my berth as I do from inside the outer breakwater. I find the last two hours of the incoming tide, through the beginning of the outflow to be the best time to fish for them. I bait the area with small amounts of cat food, and turn on my large deck lights to attract them to my area at night which seems to be the best time to catch them. How much bait I catch using this method varies from night to night, and is partially determined by how many people are willing to give me a hand. Assuming I have one tank loaded with Anchovies from one of the commercial receivers, I will use my other live bait tank to store the Sardines for fishing only. (No chumming). I would consider catching three to four dozen Sardines using this method a good night.
Buy far the easiest, and most efficient way to buy live bait is from the commercial live bait receivers in San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz, and Monterey. I want to stress the fact that these bait receivers exist primarily from the sales of live bait to the many fine party boats that fish our coastline. These boats buy a lot of bait, and they buy it often. So as sport fishermen we must often allow them to load ahead of us sometimes. It really doesn’t matter because were going to pass them up heading out anyway.
OK its our turn at the receiver, I never know how many scoops of bait I am going to buy at first, I want to see a scoop or two in my tank to see what they are (sardines or anchovies), are there any red noses, how big is the bait, the bigger the bait is, the less your tank will hold. Knowledge of how much live bait your tank will hold is very important. When taking the live bait on board they will be extremely active, and will not give you much of an idea of what is enough. A great advantage I have on board my medium size boat, is the fact I have two live bait tanks. I will often put two scoops in each tank, and after a period of time when the bait settles down I will slowly move all the bait into one tank, and drain the empty one. (Removes about four hundred pounds of weight) When you leave the receiver in the dark, get a light on in or above the tank right away, and move slowly until you see the bait settle down into a calm schooling motion (it doesn’t take long). Remember when traveling offshore to watch your bait occasionally, if you encounter rough seas you may have to slow down. Remove dead bait periodically and place in a bucket to use for chum. (Do this all day). Remember the condition of your bait when you arrive at the fishing grounds is far more important than the volume of bait you have in your bait tank.You can adjust your fishing and chumming to the volume you have.
WHY FISH WITH LIVE BAIT?
The most common way to catch Albacore is by trolling. The best trolling method I have found is the Franko method. I am sure Bob will write a GREYBEARD feature that will make you very proficient at this method of catching tuna.
I like trolling to find the school of fish, and then transition into live bait fishing. I use lighter tackle for live bait. I feel the fish pickup and run with my line while holding the rod in my hands. My fish has not been dragged by my 30,000lb boat for 50 to 100 yards. The fight of an Albacore caught on live bait is much better than one caught trolling.
Another great reason to use live bait is that your chances of catching other game fish increases dramatically. While fishing in northern California I have caught Bluefin Tuna, Striped Marlin,Yellowtail, Bonita, Barracuda, large Spanish Mackerel, Blue Sharks, and Lancet Fish. I have witnessed the take of Swordfish, Opah, and Dorado using live bait on party boats in our area.
Another great reason to fish live bait is, when you reach your personal limit of fish you want to take home, it is far easier to catch and release when all you have to do is lean over the side of the boat, and cut the line. A 20 cent barbed or barbless hook is a lot cheaper than $5 to $10 trolling lures.
CHUMMING
Regarding chumming, the first thing I would say is important is to realize the most damaging thing you can do to prevent a successful live bait stop is to chum incorrectly. It is not necessary to chum at all if you are catching fish after a trolling stop. If after a trolling stop, you are unsuccessful getting the school of fish to the boat, change your tactics on the next stop. When a troll fish hits, stop the boat and chum just three or four live fish immediately. By the time the boat slides to a stop the chum fish should be about half way between where you first hooked the troll fish and were your boat is. This will often aid bringing the school of tuna to the boat. Get the live bait lines in the water as soon as possible. If you can hook up right away, a live hooked tuna on the line is the best thing as other fish will follow the one hooked. If you want to chum during a live bait stop, less is better than more, live chum have tails, and if you chum too many a few will get away from the immediate area of the boat and the tuna will follow. Another way to prevent this from happening is to pinch the three or four live bait before tossing overboard, this will slow them down as if they are injured (they are).When the tuna stop biting on this stop, don’t chum any more live bait. The tuna may have left, so try a few dead baits over the side; this may bring a few deep stragglers up. Unlike a large party boat, when fishing from a small or medium size boat your volume of live bait is smaller, therefore you must chum smarter.
TACKLE
I will make this section brief and to the point. Everyone has their own preferences, and if you don’t your local tackle store can make great recommendations. The quality and cost of the equipment is not as important as how you use it. I will list my recommendations regarding tackle:
1. Fishing rods should be boat style, on the short side 6 to 7 feet max. (Both trolling and live bait)
2. Reels. Trolling: (2 speed) I use Shimano TLD 25 reels for trolling. Many others will work fine.
Live bait reels: If you are going to spend any money on good quality, this is where to spend it. These reels take a real beating. Good drag system is a must.
3. Fishing line: Trolling reels: monofilament 50 or even 60lb.test. I tend to use no less breaking strength, because when trolling with the intention of transitioning to live bait, I use a tighter drag than normal. I want a troll caught fish to the boat as fast as possible. Don’t allow the fish to run. This is important in getting the school to the boat.
Fishing line: Live bait reels: (TIP OF THE YEAR) Straight Fluorocarbon (Cabela’s no-vis 100% Fluorocarbon 20lb.test 600 yards $29.99) should be enough to spool two reels. All tuna have large eyes, and great vision. This will help tremendously with line shy fish. A genuine problem I fought for years with monofilament. The advantage of using straight Fluorocarbon line VS making Fluorocarbon leaders is obvious. You must remember to wet the line when tying knots with Fluorocarbon line.
4. Live bait hooks: SHARP hooks are a must, and plenty of them as you will lose a lot of them to lost fish, swallowed, frayed line etc. (I like Owner hooks) at the rate you will use them you will never have to worry about sharpening them. An ample supply of hooks from #6 thru #2/0 is important because the size of your live bait will vary greatly from trip to trip depending upon what is available at the local receivers. You must always MATCH the hook size to the size of the bait. I like to use a ¼ to ½ oz free flowing egg sinker on my line, to help encourage the bait to sink. How you hook the bait is also very important. Using anchovies I prefer placing the hook through the bottom jaw and out the top near the nose. Collar hooking is another option. With sardines, and mackerel I prefer to hook cross ways thru the nose in front of the eyes. (This area is very bony and the hook will hold well). Another option is to hook them near the anal area (this will encourage the bait to swim down in the water column.
TRANSITIONING
(The key to making a successful bait stop with small and medium boats)
A great advantage a large party boat has is the fact they often can stop on meter marks, and begin to chum steadily using their large capacity bait tank to its fullest advantage. They also have the advantage of having 20 to 40 fishermen soaking live bait. This can create a bait stop for them that can last for hours. Small to medium boats will seldom have this advantage.
I am convinced the most important factor in creating a successful live bait stop in small and medium boats is a fast efficient transition from trolling to stopping, and getting the live bait rods in the water. I spoke earlier of a team effort; this is where it often really counts.
I troll a little differently when I know the fish are receptive to live bait. (usually after a couple of stops). I tighten the drags on all the trolling rods to what I consider their maximum limit. If I know there a lot of fish in the area, and very willing, I will even troll with just three rods instead of five or six. This naturally reduces the time it takes to clear the rods with no fish, all the while coaching the fisherman with the troll caught fish to “GET IT IN”. I have stopped the boat almost immediately, and I shut the engines off. (I do this because I have two large diesel engines that make a lot noise. I don’t recommend this for single engine gas boats, as I don’t think their noise level is enough to matter. Constantly turning single gas engines on and off fifty miles out never has made me comfortable. While reeling in the empty rods throw a couple of those dead baits out of the bucket, tuna will seldom bite them, but it should give them an idea there might be something around they like. Everyone can now grab a live bait rod. The first thing I do with the rod in hand is check the setting of the drag, and then I bait it with a lively live bait. By this time my boat is drifting sideways in the swell, you must put your line in on the side of the boat that is upwind. (Usually face the oncoming wind and swell). Immediately free spool line off the reel (clicker off), a natural constant flow of line off the reel is imperative. This is the one time in your life you should POINT the rod level with the water at where you think your bait is. I forgot to mention, when first placing your bait in the water, make sure your bait is swimming away from the boat. Sardines in particular have a nasty habit of turning around, and swimming under the boat and hiding. Chumming live bait is perhaps the most difficult decision to make. Too much is WORSE, than not enough. If you do chum try just two or three, and give them a pinch behind the head or tail to slow them down a little.
Let’s get back to our live bait rod we have been free flowing line off of. A sure sign your bait has seen an albacore can be felt by sudden jerking, panicking of the baitfish. A sign you’re going to get a run. When an albacore picks your bait up you will feel no bite, but you will feel a rush of line off your reel similar to the feel when you make a long cast. You MUST control the flow of line off the reel with light pressure from your thumb Give a slow count of 5 or 6 if using an anchovy, or 10 or 12 if using a medium or large sardine. The reason for the long and longer count is to allow time for the tuna to swallow your bait, also it’s to allow time for your line to straighten out. Maintaining your rod in a level parallel with the water position, engage the drag. (remember you already checked the drag before baiting up). Hold the rod in the same position, until you feel it load up and line begins to flow off the reel. Now the most important part DO NOT STRIKE, merely LIFT the rod and reel.The Tuna will hook itself.
I think anyone who has ever been on a party boat has heard “follow your fish”, or “stay in front of your fish”, the same thing applies in small or medium boats. Well, by now we probably have two or three fish hooked up, and one guy standing by with the gaff. It is always a great idea when you have a more than two fish hooked up to leave the third fish away from the boat (maintain pressure on him). This help prevent tangles, and a live tuna in the water at all times is better than any chum you could use. I always have at least three or four extra live bait rods rigged in my rocket launchers, so that when a line is broke fighting a fish, or a hook is left in a fish that has swallowed it, rather than taking time to rig a new hook, any one of us can grab a rod preset and ready to go. If you do happen to get your hook out of the tuna’s jaw, (he should have swallowed it), be sure to check the last couple of feet for damage to the line.
Well how many did we end up with? Look around, everybody's got someone else’s rod in their hand (can't do that on a party boat) and a smile on their face.
One last comment before TRANSITIONING back to TROLLING, clean up, and place trolling rods at their respective position. Trolling lines placed in position quickly is very important. Let’s try just three trolling rods that school of fish is close by, if we don’t hook up in 15 minutes we’ll add the other three.
Albacore Tuna
The sun is high, the wind is calm and warm. The seas are flat and the water clarity is beyond belief and of such a deep dark blue that it mesmerises your senses.
HOOK UP!!! A 30 pound Albacore has taken your jig and your line is screaming out of your reel at mach 3!
Now you have a fight on your hands! Albacore are the king of all fighting fish. One of the most powerful sport fish you could ever imagine. They have more stamina than you and will fight clear to the fish box!
During the fight, you get advise from everyone around you; "Keep the pole up! Don't let em have an inch! Go here, go there! Breath deep! Keep your pole off the rail! backup, go foward, don't touch that drag, tighten that drag, etc. etc."
But you won't hear a thing from the peanut gallery because you're screaming with excitement and puffing like a choo choo! Albacore fishing has got to be the most exciting of all the fisheries. When the fish are coming on, the action will be the experience of a life time and one you will never forget!
But how do you catch em!? Patience and attention to detail.
The best method is with a pole trolling a jig at speeds of 6 to 9 knots. Everyone has a line in the water they're responsible for. I like this the best because you can use a lighter line and you can play the fish and really feel its power. When we get a hook up, we continue the troll for for about 10 seconds for multiple hook ups, then we slow to a slow troll speed so the fish can be fought in. All the other fishermen who do not have a fish on will continue to fish and move out of the way of those fight fish. After the fish are boated, we continue the troll and go back over the spot for more. So everyone has to be paying attention and be able to move your gear and help out. This is a proactive fishery with little room for looking at the scenery.
When we are in fish, it's a whole boat show!
The other method we use is trolling with hand lines. This does not get as many hookups but you can get the fish in the boat quicker and you don't have to slow the boat. If the bite goes grazy, we may switch to hand lines to increase our catch numbers. Many fishermen who have experienced the awesome fight on a pole, (and after they're pooped out) also like to use hand lines.
The Albacore we catch range in size from small at 9-12 pounds to large weighing from 30 to 35 pounds. When you're catching the large fish, we encourage use of the poles. This is for two reasons. One is that Albacore tend to become more isolated swimmers the larger they get. They don't school up but travel in small groups of between 3 and 10 fish. So when you get one hookup of a large fish, chances are you will get another almost immediately. That's because Albies are line shy and can see the heavier stuff. So if you use a pole with lighter line, you have a chance to get more hookups. The other reason is that a 30 to 35 pound Albacore will strike the jig at speeds up to 50 mph. Their weight coupled with their speed will often break 300 pound test tuna cord which is what we use for hand lines. There is no drag or extra line to feed out when they hit so a big strike puts a lot of strain on the line. So we use poles for the big ones.
Albacore titles by size
• Coke Bottles - 5 to 9 pounds, fiesty fighters!
• Schoolies -10 to 20 pounds, these will wear you out!
• Fat Boys - 21 to 30 pounds, you'll be crying for your mama!
Basic Tuna gear would be Shimano TDL-25 reel with a good stiff rod of about 6' or so. Load it with 50# Mono and tie your lure directly to the main line. Mark your lines with a small rubber band so that you can free-spool your line out to a specific point behind the boat. We had two side rods and one stern rod. Keep your rods low and close to the water. Troll at 7 knots. When a fish hits one of the lines, let it hang, and keep moving for another 6 to 10 seconds while making a turn - good chance you will get multiple hookups! Slow to an idle and clear any rods that don't have a fish. Then play your fish with the boat out of gear.
Check the photo of that day here:
http://www.jimsfishing.com/photo_gallery.htm
First photo.
Tuna fishing is a lot of fun, but it is also expensive to set up for. You need good reels and rods, and salmon gear won't cut it on a regular basis. If you think Salmon can make a reel scream, wait till you hit your first Tuna!
Water temperature is critical. You need to know where the warm water is. To do that you need to subscribe to one of the websites that gives satellite data of water temps. Driving aimlessly 20 or 30 miles off-shore won't do it. You need lat & long for where it is and once there, start your search.
Trolling
Step 1: Pick a lure. Most tuna lures have a Kona head, but they come in many shapes, sizes and colors and under many names. The Kona head creates an ideal bubble trail and surface action for attracting tuna.
Step 2: Set the outriggers. With outriggers, or arms that stretch from the side of the boat, you can troll additional lines without getting tangled. Tuna anglers usually troll with four lines, although with the right equipment it is possible to set more.
Step 3: Troll until a fish strikes. If it is set correctly, the outrigger will release the line when a fish hits.
Step 4: Land the tuna. Take pictures and measurements. If you are keeping the fish, put it on ice right away.
Chumming
Step 1: Prepare chum. Cut up bait, keeping all the blood and entrails.
Step 2: Start pouring chum overboard in regular intervals once you have reached a potential fishing area.
Step 3: Cast your baited line into the trail of chum behind the boat. Once tuna begin to feed on the chum, it is easy to catch them if they think your bait is just another piece of chum.
Step 4: Set the hook when a fish strikes. Land it and treat the fish appropriately depending on whether you will release it or eat it.
I have yet to see any rigged tuna cords for sale. I would be willing to show and tell how to make your own. Most of the ingredients can be had at Fishermans Marine, Englunds, or Seattle Marine. i.
You will need ... Ok remember .. Self taught and I don't care how they do it in California. This ain't California: grin: ...
~Tuna Cord. 400 lb test. Blue, braided line in 400 ft on a spool.
~Mono leader, Big Game or Momoi, 200# test.
~(4) Truck/tuna bungee/snubber cords.
~(4) Corkscrew swivels.
Basically you make 4 rigs with this parts list. With the heavy leaders and gloves, a gaff is unnecessary. Just grab the leader and swing them into the boat. They will plunge right through a net with effortless grace.
Cut the tuna cord into 4 sections. On one end, tie a surgeons loop for the cleat on the boat. About 3 feet down the line tie in the first end of the bungee cord. Give about 30" to 36" of slack and tie on the other end of the bungee cord. There are special knots for the bungee cord that I learned by dissecting one of 'Puffin's' setups. I can show you how to tie them.
Using simple overhand knots, knot the cord every 18" to the end. Tie on the corkscrew swivel using a tuffline knot. Burn the raw ends to prevent fray. The knots give you some grip and produce a killer bubble trail when you drag your gear.
I recommend setting the handlines on the corners of the boat and the length is fixed at 65 feet back. Set these lines first. Run a standup rod at each corner of the boat. Turn towards the side you are setting until the jig clears the handline jig. Go out about 150 feet back. Set the last standup rod in the middle and furthest back at maybe 200 feet.
The rods are obvious on a strike. The handlines will stretch the bungee to the length of the slack on it. So you will notice a strained handline if it gets hit.
THIS IS A COMPOSITE FROM ARTICALS THAT I HAVE READ!
Sushihunter
Active Member
It's not the first photo on that page any more.
Jim's Fishing Charters
www.JimsFishing.com
http://ca.youtube.com/user/Sushihunter250
G
gutchucker
Guest
Thanks for sharing the info...
PassMeABeer
Member
Thanks for the details Charlie! That's got to be the longest post in the history of this forum. Were you out about 20 miles with Jim when you caught that bucket full of Tuna? Our fishfinder isn't that great so I'll have to just keep my eyes open for birds and watch the temperature.
T
Tacheeda
Guest
The one hanging on the scale behind the guy looks to be 22lbs and w you can get 30 each. With it being a totally different type of fishery I would definetly do it. Heard they are fun.
Sushihunter
Active Member
Let's see...
15 Tuna X 22 pound average
330 pounds of fish!
Not sure about the percentage of meat to fish, but let's say 50%
165 pounds of good fresh Tuna! (all of it eaten raw)
Not including what I scraped off the bones for the cats.
Not sure about the price of Tuna in the market, but most sushi bars charge between $1.50 and $2.00 per bite size piece with a bit of rice.
Jim's Fishing Charters
www.JimsFishing.com
http://ca.youtube.com/user/Sushihunter250
Charlie
Well-Known Member
Your welcome!
I just used Jim's picture to show there are tuna in Nootka.
I have not personally caught any in that area, but am wanting to. Also, I have never fished with Jim... nor do I personally know him, but would love to meet and fish with him. I enjoy fishing with people who know what they are doing!
Sushihunter
Active Member
quote:
Your welcome!
I just used Jim's picture to show there are tuna in Nootka.
I have not personally caught any in that area, but am wanting to. Also, I have never fished with Jim... nor do I personally know him, but would love to meet and fish with him. I enjoy fishing with people who know what they are doing!
Charlie: Thanks for the compliments! [:I]
We may have met last year at Critter Cove - You are the cook there if I recall correctly ???
I got a bowl of the Seafood Chowder which was fantastic.
I am hoping to get out there sometime this season to see Catherine and pick up some tackle. Perhaps I'll see you then, and have a burger.
As for the Tuna, I was priveleged to be with one of California's top Tuna Fishermen: Bob Franko.
If you want to learn about Tuna fishing, he will be doing a seminar on July 29th at Westview Marina in Tahsis. Cost is $10 per person with all of it going to Salmon Enhancement in Tahsis.
Bob is a good friend of mine, and I can tell you this will be a great learning experience for those who want to fish Tuna, here or anywhere.
Here is Bob on his boat Fish'n Machine:
Jim's Fishing Charters
www.JimsFishing.com
http://ca.youtube.com/user/Sushihunter250
TenMile
Well-Known Member
quote: Man, are they ever small. I'll bet they get a lot bigger down south. Is it really worth the effort and expenses for those little buggers? I mean they are barely bigger than a mackerel!
Three things you never make fun of when speaking with fellow fishermen: his wife, his boat and the size of his fish...
I'm with ya Sushi -- I'd love those tuna in my freezer. Let's keep this thread active -- up in Bamfield Aug 9th and Aug 23 for multi-day excursions and it would be great if there were a couple of boats will to do a group run if the warmer water starts to roll in closer to shore.
Three things you never make fun of when speaking with fellow fishermen: his wife, his boat and the size of his fish...
I'm with ya Sushi -- I'd love those tuna in my freezer. Let's keep this thread active -- up in Bamfield Aug 9th and Aug 23 for multi-day excursions and it would be great if there were a couple of boats will to do a group run if the warmer water starts to roll in closer to shore.
