Traps left behind

We were having some issues with keeping our batteries charged, got that fixed and one of the things that we installed was one of these


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I have the app on my phone and can check batteries while I watch the SuperBowl
A digital multimeter gauges a battery’s voltage and it's real handy to have one on your boat. Unfortunately, a digital multimeter can’t tell you the battery’s capacity to deliver the necessary amount of amps required to start the engine. A Schumacher BT-250 Digital Battery Tester like the one I found on marketplace for $30 (new price ~$100) actually runs a diagnostic test on the battery by putting a load on it to determine how much capacity it has. Once the diagnosis is complete, the tester provides a digital readout as to whether the battery is healthy or if it needs to be replaced. It also displays how much capacity the battery still has, as a percentage, compared to the specifications of a healthy new battery. It works on a bunch of different types of 12v batteries. When I'm plugged into shore power I have an onboard smart battery charger/conditioner that keeps my batteries in tiptop shape so I can watch the Superbowl without having to keep checking an app on my phone to determine whether the batteries in my boat have gone dead ;>)
 
also DFO will frown upon any one with some ones traps friends or not ........
 
I worked with a fellow that bought his first boat as a retirement gift to himself. The only boating experience he had was riding B.C. ferries. He had constant problems with power on his boat ( his 4000w inverter running coffee pot and microwave didn’t help) I argued with him for 6 months or more to replace his batteries but he insisted they where fine because he would check them with a meter and they where 12 volt.

Everything was fine until he went out and turned his motor off and it wouldn’t start. I tried to warn him the sea is a cruel mistress and there is no walking home when the boat breaks down.

Also the cost of a set of prawn traps that may never be recovered is probably equal to a new battery. I say get the batteries tested and if good check voltage with motor running vs off. I usually have voltage up on my sounder as I am running anyway so I take note of what’s happening.
 
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It also depends how you are reading the voltage when you’re out on the water. Sometimes, if you read it through your electronic device, the voltage reading is not accurate. It’s best to look at a voltmeter that’s wired into the system, or check the battery itself with a handheld voltmeter. If you have something like a Smart Craft or MercMonitor set up, they also have a voltmeter within.

On the graph I posted above, 50% discharge is as low as you should go before starting up the main and charging the battery again. Otherwise, the life of the battery will be shortened measurably.
 
I ran into some engine trouble on the water yesterday and my Main wouldn't start. Just barely got in on the kicker which also started acting up. Suffice to say I had to leave my prawn trap out there so I could get back. Not sure what or if there is anything I can do but wait it out?
Got home charged battery says 12V but still won't start? Should I asume my traps are gone by the weekend?
If I was in Surrey I’d take you out and grab your traps, pretty funny catching **** from these guys. I’ve had plenty of avoidable situations on the water that I’ve learned from. I used to be really impatient and just want to get out there, my old buddies would drive me nuts with their checklist and making sure we were prepared, now I know it’s because they learned from experience. I’m still pretty impatient, and I’m sure I’ll have some more learning experiences, can only hope to one day be as smart as some of these guys. Anyways man good luck getting your traps back and I hope you get your boat running like it should. 😁👊🏻
 
It also depends how you are reading the voltage when you’re out on the water. Sometimes, if you read it through your electronic device, the voltage reading is not accurate. It’s best to look at a voltmeter that’s wired into the system, or check the battery itself with a handheld voltmeter. If you have something like a Smart Craft or MercMonitor set up, they also have a voltmeter within.

On the graph I posted above, 50% discharge is as low as you should go before starting up the main and charging the battery again. Otherwise, the life of the battery will be shortened measurably.
One thing to mention is that battery voltage will drop under load, so measuring 12.3V with a load on the batts may not indicate a 50% discharge. Using open load voltage to determine state of charge is an approximation, but it gives a decent ballpark. Factors like temperature, battery construction and battery chemistry will all result in a variance in the voltage to battery percentage number.

Battery amp hour ratings are based on a certain discharge rate too, so a bigger consistent load will result in a lower effective battery capacity. The only way to know for sure what voltage correlates to remaining battery capacity is to apply a fixed load to the battery (say 1 amp) and take voltage readings at different time intervals. If you have a 100ah battery, theoretically you’d be at 50% after 50 hours in this scenario. Disconnect the load and take a voltage measurement to get your slightly more accurate 50% capacity voltage. Obviously nobody other than turbo nerds are going to do this, so people go off those charts and they are good enough to know when to bust out the charger. AGM batteries can handle more than 50% discharge better than standard lead acid batteries, but it will decrease their lifespan, just not as dramatically.
 
When I'm plugged into shore power I have an onboard smart battery charger/conditioner that keeps my batteries in tiptop shape so I can watch the Superbowl without having to keep checking an app on my phone to determine whether the batteries in my boat have gone dead ;>)

I have the same type of setup when I plug in to shorepower, and once I got the correct battery switches things were fine.
 
One thing to mention is that battery voltage will drop under load, so measuring 12.3V with a load on the batts may not indicate a 50% discharge. Using open load voltage to determine state of charge is an approximation, but it gives a decent ballpark. Factors like temperature, battery construction and battery chemistry will all result in a variance in the voltage to battery percentage number.

Battery amp hour ratings are based on a certain discharge rate too, so a bigger consistent load will result in a lower effective battery capacity. The only way to know for sure what voltage correlates to remaining battery capacity is to apply a fixed load to the battery (say 1 amp) and take voltage readings at different time intervals. If you have a 100ah battery, theoretically you’d be at 50% after 50 hours in this scenario. Disconnect the load and take a voltage measurement to get your slightly more accurate 50% capacity voltage. Obviously nobody other than turbo nerds are going to do this, so people go off those charts and they are good enough to know when to bust out the charger. AGM batteries can handle more than 50% discharge better than standard lead acid batteries, but it will decrease their lifespan, just not as dramatically.
Correct. I assumed all would know it was no load.
 
One of a number of voltage expectation diagrams available.

No load.

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Decided to check out my 10year old Interstate batteries after seeing this. No Load after sitting for a few days. House:12.56 V Start: 12.48V Start battery draws down to 9.4-9.6 Volts when cranking. Still working but I would say they are getting tired and that I got my money's worth out of them. I keep a set of jumpers and a Noco GB-70 on board just in case.
 
Anything over 7 years is a gift, I would change them Newf
That's the plan. Think I'll go with the same brand. Can't complain with the lifespan of those. Hate replacing things that still works fine but you are right, it's time. There is a store on Island Hwy which is only 10-15 minutes from me so I will get er done.
 
That's the plan. Think I'll go with the same brand. Can't complain with the lifespan of those. Hate replacing things that still works fine but you are right, it's time. There is a store on Island Hwy which is only 10-15 minutes from me so I will get er done.
Amazing lifespan, I’m impressed. Repeat that order.
 
That's the plan. Think I'll go with the same brand. Can't complain with the lifespan of those. Hate replacing things that still works fine but you are right, it's time. There is a store on Island Hwy which is only 10-15 minutes from me so I will get er done.
Decided to check out my 10year old Interstate batteries after seeing this. No Load after sitting for a few days. House:12.56 V Start: 12.48V Start battery draws down to 9.4-9.6 Volts when cranking. Still working but I would say they are getting tired and that I got my money's worth out of them. I keep a set of jumpers and a Noco GB-70 on board just in case.
I'll aways be happy to tow you should an unfortunate situation happen due to your batteries..... this way I can snipe your fishing spots.... hahaha (Just kidding of course)
 
Same. I hook it up to a USB outlet a few times a year to keep it fully charged. Piece of mind.
Same, but I have the GB70 2000A model. One charge before it goes in the water and another mid season keeps it topped up.

(Wife made me get one after running the battery down in the lake boat drifting around listening to tunes about 12 miles from camp)
 
Same, but I have the GB70 2000A model. One charge before it goes in the water and another mid season keeps it topped up.

(Wife made me get one after running the battery down in the lake boat drifting around listening to tunes about 12 miles from camp)
Good plan. For those thinking of getting something similar, mine did not need any juice one of the 2 times I charged it, and barely a top up the other time, it's just me being safe rather than sorry with safety on the water. These devices are really handy and easily stored on the boat, taking up a very small space.
 
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