Trap Puller

Time

Time

Well-Known Member
Thought I would post some pictures of the trap puller I built this winter using the $40.00 Cdn Tire 1500 pound winch.

Base and drum are 3/4" plywood, boom is 1 1/4" aluminium pipe (from the scrap bin at Lifetimer boats, pillowblocks are made from 2 pieces of 1" plastic (polyethelene?)sandwiched togethor, and the 'runners' underneath are a couple of pieces of 3/8" angle aluminium (from another scrap dealer) spaced to fit onto the Scotty downrigger plate.

Standard Scotty dr bolt will hold it in place. I used the 3/8" aluminium angle so I could tap/thread one side to hold the bolt. 1/4" may be adequate.

No welding skills so all is bolted togethor.

Thanks to Blue Orca, SIR and all the others who have posted pics and explanations in the past. Couldn't/wouldn't have done it without their work.

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Whoops, missed the third picture I wanted to include:

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Double whoops. Posted in wrong forum.
My fat fumbling fingers strike again.
Perhaps a mod. could move.
 
Cool! Is that your's with the old DR spool on the hunting site as well? I'm off to Canadian Tire tomorrow after work.
 
Spool is just 3 pieces of plywood laminated togethor with glue and some ss screws. Inside piece is about 1" less in diameter than the two outside pieces. Cut the 'rounds' with a jig saw.
 
Almost finished mine with the 1500lb winch from C.Tire. While looking for scrap aluminum at the junkyard, I found an old pitching machine, and took one of the 12" hard rubber wheels with a concave edge to use as the N!&&@%head. $5.00
I only have a small boat with one deep cycle battery and a rinkydink 6amp charger in the outboard.

Any guesses as to how many lifts from 300ft will I be able to make before I have to run around all day to recharge? 1,2,3,4??

The motor can be started with the pullcord, but after building this contraption, I'd hate to have to pull my traps by hand again.

Also, I don't have electric DR's so does any one see a problem with just putting booster cable clamps on the wires and clipping it to the battery posts when I want to use it?
 
Tubber, Time, could you describe how your pulley is attached to the winch motor? It came with the small pulley held in place with the metal frame which kept the spring loaded shaft into the housing of the motor. Your white pillow blocks would take care of that, but how is the pulley attached to the splined shaft to be driven by the motor?

Thanks, I haven't had the time to sit down and engineer it myself and wouldn't mind a few tips.
 
quote:Originally posted by tubber

Almost finished mine with the 1500lb winch from C.Tire. While looking for scrap aluminum at the junkyard, I found an old pitching machine, and took one of the 12" hard rubber wheels with a concave edge to use as the N!&&@%head. $5.00
I only have a small boat with one deep cycle battery and a rinkydink 6amp charger in the outboard.

Any guesses as to how many lifts from 300ft will I be able to make before I have to run around all day to recharge? 1,2,3,4??

The motor can be started with the pullcord, but after building this contraption, I'd hate to have to pull my traps by hand again.

Also, I don't have electric DR's so does any one see a problem with just putting booster cable clamps on the wires and clipping it to the battery posts when I want to use it?
Click to expand...

I bet you would get around 20 minutes of pulling time with a good battery. As for clipping it on your battery poles, that's what I did the day I got my puller, I was just too stoked about trying it to setup a plug on it. So I give you 3 pulls assuming a string of 4 traps.

Last Chance Fishing Adventures

www.lastchancefishingadventures.com
www.swiftsurebank.com
 
Thanks LC, that should be plenty if I put them in the right spot

quote]Tubber, Time, could you describe how your pulley is attached to the winch motor? It came with the small pulley held in place with the metal frame which kept the spring loaded shaft into the housing of the motor. Your white pillow blocks would take care of that, but how is the pulley attached to the splined shaft to be driven by the motor?[/quote]

Others have working versions and know more than I do. I just drilled through the winch drum and attached the 12" wheel to it with 1/4" bolts. The pillow block holds the drum and its gears in place( I hope, haven't tried it yet), because it is supporting the drum horizontally but also it is flush to the winch side inside edge of the drum (vertical support). Also, the spring is still inside the core of the drum applying force toward the motor. I don't know if it will work, but so far I'm only in for $70.00 and it's been fun playing in the garage getting ready for a few summer trips to the Island.
 
I took the winch off the frame and bought a couple of stainless bolts 3/4" longer and bolted the motor to the plywood base.
Threw the frame away after using it to mark the location of the bolt holes.
Then I bolted the pillow block, after fitting it around the pulley, to the plywood base, using it to snug the pulley up against the motor, and to provide support for the pulley.
The drum is then bolted on to the exterior side of the pulley.

To make the pillow block I used 3 pieces of plastic, each 3/4" thick, and roughly 4" high and 5" wide, and screwed them togethor. I also, at this time, drilled some vertical 5/16" holes for the future mounting bolts. Then measured the height to the centre of the drum and ran the block through the table saw to make a horizontal cut at the height of the centre of the pulley. Next step was to bolt the two pieces togethor and using what I recall was a 35mm or 1 3/8" drill bit (don't trust my memory, measure the diameter of the pulley) through the block, centered on your cut line. (And trust me, it doesn't work to drill the hole first and then cut the pillow block, you end up having to redrill the hole, and it is awkward.)

I could then separate the top and bottom half of the pillow block, set the bottom piece on the plywood, with the pulley slid in place on the end of the motor, mark the spots on the plywood and drill for the mounting bolts. The bolts hold the two halves of the pillow block togethor, around the pulley, and secured to the plywood.

Wow, I'm a bit long winded today.
Hope that helps.

Now my question, how noisy is the motor? Mine sounds like a dying coffee grinder or some such.
Could it be the "spring" Tubber? I don't recall installing one. Dam, now I have to tear it apart again. And I haven't even used it yet and I'm sure the spring is long gone.
Any idea of size (diameter and length.)

Also, I don't know what the amp draw is, but I would think as long as your motor is running, you should have plenty of power. But then, I have no idea how electricical things work.
 
Thanks Tubber and Time, I just didn't have a good line on the pillowblock idea, but I've got it now. My motor does sound a bit rough too, but you get what you pay for?? Have to load those gears with grease before bolting it down, and hopefully get a season out of it.
Thanks again.
 
The spring on mine is about 5/8" outside and 1 1/4" long. How long did you keep the 1/4" shaft on the spline? It will have to be cut off to bolt the big pulley onto the outside of the small drum.
 
I didn't cut the shaft with the spline, on the pulley I built I drilled a big enough hole that it went over the outer hub of the drum and just deep enough enough to exert some pressure on the shaft to keep it engaged.
That's probably what the spring is for, to keep the shaft into the gears in the motor.
That said, I dont think it would matter where you cut it, although I'd probably trim it even with the outer hub of the drum.
 
quote:Could it be the "spring" Tubber? I don't recall installing one. Dam, now I have to tear it apart again. And I haven't even used it yet and I'm sure the spring is long gone.
Click to expand...

My winch came with a springloaded shaft with a knob to pull to allow free spool. I took the knob off but left the spring in. Your spring is probably still in there.
 
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