Trailer Disc Brake Conversion

[Max123]

So, current trailer is a 2019 Single Axle Roadrunner with a listed carrying capacity of 3000lbs (net capacity, not gross) and setup for an aluminum 20ft boat. Trailer frame is in great shape with no rust and it generally suits my needs (I store it at the marina, so primarily used to tow the boat 100ft to launch into fresh water or to the closest Chevron). I think the furthest I've towed it is 50km when the boat was going into the mechanic for a tune up.

When I was repacking the bearings last year I was looking at the drum brakes to try and bleed them, and the bleed screw is rusted shut - no amount of heat/penetrating fluid could free it up. Everything is currently working fine, but with old fluid/drums I'm on borrowed time. I also hate drums from a service perspective - I can change discs/pads in less than an hour - drums have always been a nightmare.

Anyway, I'm planning a trip to Kelowna this summer and would like to take the boat so looks like its time for a brake upgrade.

Based on my reading, best bet is the Kodiak stainless calipers / hub / backing plate. Discs can be either stainless of Dacromat coated - I'm always launching in fresh water so Dacromat is likely fine. Is this the best/recommended kit? Anything I should look out for?

Kodiak Trailer Slip-on 10 inch Disc Brake Kit w/ SS Calipers

Any preferences on a surge actuator for the discs? I don't really see much that distinguishes the different actuators, so curious if there is anything to watch out for. Strong preference for anything easy to bleed. Any opinions on reverse lockout or breakaway tech?

As an aside - not really interested in converting to electric over hydraulic. I know this is the gold standard, but juice just doesn't seem to be worth the squeeze on a single axle trailer that is very rarely ever towed extended distances.

PS - any tire recommendations? Tires are original, so also need to be replaced for the trip to Kelowna,

PPS - Should I consider touching/replacing the leafs while I'm in there. They squeak to holy hell, and have a lot of surface rust - but I don't think that's necessarily a problem.

 

[zurk]

i would take it to highliner in delta and have them do everything. they build trailers themselves so they know what they are doing.

 

[kaelc]

So, current trailer is a 2019 Single Axle Roadrunner with a listed carrying capacity of 3000lbs (net capacity, not gross) and setup for an aluminum 20ft boat. Trailer frame is in great shape with no rust and it generally suits my needs (I store it at the marina, so primarily used to tow the boat 100ft to launch into fresh water or to the closest Chevron). I think the furthest I've towed it is 50km when the boat was going into the mechanic for a tune up.

When I was repacking the bearings last year I was looking at the drum brakes to try and bleed them, and the bleed screw is rusted shut - no amount of heat/penetrating fluid could free it up. Everything is currently working fine, but with old fluid/drums I'm on borrowed time. I also hate drums from a service perspective - I can change discs/pads in less than an hour - drums have always been a nightmare.

Anyway, I'm planning a trip to Kelowna this summer and would like to take the boat so looks like its time for a brake upgrade.

Based on my reading, best bet is the Kodiak stainless calipers / hub / backing plate. Discs can be either stainless of Dacromat coated - I'm always launching in fresh water so Dacromat is likely fine. Is this the best/recommended kit? Anything I should look out for?

Kodiak Trailer Slip-on 10 inch Disc Brake Kit w/ SS Calipers

Any preferences on a surge actuator for the discs? I don't really see much that distinguishes the different actuators, so curious if there is anything to watch out for. Strong preference for anything easy to bleed. Any opinions on reverse lockout or breakaway tech?

As an aside - not really interested in converting to electric over hydraulic. I know this is the gold standard, but juice just doesn't seem to be worth the squeeze on a single axle trailer that is very rarely ever towed extended distances.

PS - any tire recommendations? Tires are original, so also need to be replaced for the trip to Kelowna,

PPS - Should I consider touching/replacing the leafs while I'm in there. They squeak to holy hell, and have a lot of surface rust - but I don't think that's necessarily a problem.

Make sure your axle assembly will fit those kodiaks, most do, but mine don't. You might want to look at a full axle & spring replacement at the same time, I feel like you can buy them assembled as a kit. That way you don't have to do the springs in 3-4 years and then the axle 3-4 years after that.

 

[BC Coast Pilot]

There's sure a lot of stainless drum brake kits on Amazon, straight replacement. 3000lbs isn't much. IMO Having trouble with them just means they arent being serviced enough and your hammer ain't big enough. Cheap, brake fluid is aqueous and we mostly don't recognize that and chage fluid or lubricate the internals. Never sieze is your friend on the adjustments. Disc brakes don't get much more time anyway.
Lube your springs and go for a drive with weight on it. Price it both ways I would and practice changing shoes, get the tools, it's easy.

 

[Ringo]

Talk to Pierre at Poco Marine and he’ll hook you up with a good local shop and will also get you the right kit.
As for tires, I would shop around for a pair of Carlisles. They’re not the best but will do you good if you aren’t driving around a lot.

 

[Max123]

Talk to Pierre at Poco Marine and he’ll hook you up with a good local shop and will also get you the right kit.
As for tires, I would shop around for a pair of Carlisles. They’re not the best but will do you good if you aren’t driving around a lot.

Thanks - The Carlisle 'D' rated tires are about $100/ea whereas the top rated Goodyears are about $150. In the big scheme of things $200 vs $300 isn't much. Probably just see what the local tire shop carries.

 

[Max123]

There's sure a lot of stainless drum brake kits on Amazon, straight replacement. 3000lbs isn't much. IMO Having trouble with them just means they arent being serviced enough and your hammer ain't big enough. Cheap, brake fluid is aqueous and we mostly don't recognize that and chage fluid or lubricate the internals. Never sieze is your friend on the adjustments. Disc brakes don't get much more time anyway.
Lube your springs and go for a drive with weight on it. Price it both ways I would and practice changing shoes, get the tools, it's easy.

Thanks - I've know Pierre forever. Just on principle I would spend my money there to support a local business, but honestly he works for it! Always great pricing, and super helpful.

On drums vs discs - just personal preference. I have lots of experience working on disc brakes from my various vehicles. The one time I tried to do drums for a rear e-brake, it was just the absolute worst. The internals came apart in my hands in a pile of rust and then reassembling and trying to get everything hooked up through the tiny little access hole was...frustrating. On discs, I can swap a set of pads and lube slide pins in 15min/side. On discs, you can judge the wear just by looking at the pads and running your fingers across the disc.