You should use what works for you. It was my experience.
Suzuki mechanic recommendation df90 leg stuck
- Thread starter Aridhol
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ship happens
Crew Member
There's alot of different formulas of grease out there. Some of the larger industrial applications we use what we always called long strand grease. It's basically just the variance of tackiness in the grease. Have to be careful with that though because some of the really tacky grease will overheat a bearing. When I'm building engines, I use really light grease suitable for a bearing that has enough tackiness to hold something like needle bearng in place but not stay there. I want that grease to disappear. In applications like a fastener, a spline, or a on say a tractor with a big joint where you need that grease to stay put, then the sticker the better. In Marine land, I just use the evninrude tripple guard on all splines and fasteners. It's nice grease.
Also you don't need to grease the top of a driveshaft on an outboard. Just the sides. Same with those shift shafts on mercs and yamahas. The dimple in the end of the shaft is there for a reason. Don't fill it up with grease. Some of the other outboards, mercs especially, you don't want a long strand grease on the shaft at all. Some shafts go through seals and orings. Which a real long strand grease will overheat that seal or oring and cause major premature life on that part. So use the proper grease for the proper application.
Never seize is banned in my shop
Also you don't need to grease the top of a driveshaft on an outboard. Just the sides. Same with those shift shafts on mercs and yamahas. The dimple in the end of the shaft is there for a reason. Don't fill it up with grease. Some of the other outboards, mercs especially, you don't want a long strand grease on the shaft at all. Some shafts go through seals and orings. Which a real long strand grease will overheat that seal or oring and cause major premature life on that part. So use the proper grease for the proper application.
Never seize is banned in my shop
Max123
Well-Known Member
FYI, one of the most effective penetrating oils is a 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid. I'm sure PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, Lloyd's Penetrating oil are all fine - just don't bother with WD-40. Penetrating oil on its own is good, but if you can heat cycle the surrounding area a few times (re-applying the penetrating oil each time) its works way better. Different materials expand at different rates when heated. The gear case is aluminum, the bolts are steel - heat cycling opens up microscopic gaps that can help the penetrating oil get where it is needed. Apply the heat to the thing that needs expanding (you always heat the nut, never the bolt). I don't know if I'd want to take a torch to paint finish, so I'd suggest getting an electric heat gun or maybe even starting the motor on muffs and letting it idle for a while (use exhaust temp to heat up the lower unit). After you have heated it up and have applied penetrating oil, I wouldn't be shy about giving the lower unit a few whacks with a dead blow hammer to help massage it a bit before you start with the wedges.
Try everything you can throw at it - lubrication, heat, vibration - it all helps.
Try everything you can throw at it - lubrication, heat, vibration - it all helps.
The grease that didn't work on my spline was Evinrude triple grease. Great stuff. But I don't use it on the motor output spline anymore. Glad to hear it works for others though. Loctite LB8023 is specifically made for marine use. Like I said, use what you want but I have empirical evidence that shows my method works too.
brutus
Well-Known Member
145.972 Aufrufe · 1.091 Reaktionen | Pulling the lower unit to change the impeller. This one wanted to fight a little, 12 years 1925 HRS and had never been off before. Took some persuading from the dead blow and tree falling wedge, but got it off wit
Pulling the lower unit to change the impeller. This one wanted to fight a little, 12 years 1925 HRS and had never been off before. Took some persuading from the dead blow and tree falling wedge, but...
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sly_karma
Crew Member
What do you use for treating lower unit bolts so they don't seize up from the aluminum/stainless connection?
trophywife
Crew Member
unfortunately the repair as i have seen, is using a hole saw to expose the shaft, then cutting the shaft to drop the lower unit.
kingblazer84
Crew Member
Another trick we use in the automotive world, is heating up those studs and pushing a wax candle when it’s hot and the wax moves its way up the bolts and loosens up a lot of seized components.
Don’t know if you can warm that seam then try to push crayon or candle wax into it and the hit it with a dead blow rubber mallet
Don’t know if you can warm that seam then try to push crayon or candle wax into it and the hit it with a dead blow rubber mallet
ship happens
Crew Member
Grease. Evinrude tripple guard tacky stuff. Buy a tub with a lid. It's nice grease.
brutus
Well-Known Member
The salt around the lower bolts is not that bad, I am not a pro by any long shot and I’ve pulled some nasty ones, salt away is what worked for me, no heat, just salt away over and over, the wedge and rubber hammer,. Never dealt with a seize shaft, that’s the part that I would be worried about, lots of story of it happening
ship happens
Crew Member
Max123
Well-Known Member
@ship happens isn't just shooting from the hip on this - its right in the Evinrude Service manual to use triple guard grease on virtually all bolts that will be undone for maintenance access/assembly. (lower unit, water pump, prop nut, etc.)
Marley
Well-Known Member
I am also waiting to see the outcome of this. Always interested to see how these issues get solved. Hope it turned out well.So what happened ??? Did you get it offf?? We need to knowdon’t be like a politician
InterMechanico
Well-Known Member
Replaced with a new MercSo what happened ??? Did you get it offf?? We need to know
